Wiring an F-100 with a later engine

Vanspeed

Well-known member
Hi guys,
My 53 is bone stock except for a 302/C-4 and 9 inch rear end. It was an old farm truck. The previous owner removed all the wiring and stored it badly and it is completely ruined. I need to re-wire the whole truck. I looked around and saw that mid fifty sells a complete cloth harness for around $330. It is a negative ground 12 volt harness. Can I get away with just running some voltage reducers on the gauges and switch the blower motor over to 12v? Also I have to tie the alternator into it. What have you guys done when you stuff a later engine into one of these? My truck was originally 6 volt positive ground.
 
My suggestion is to look at getting a harness from Painless, Ron Francis, Rebel Wire, et al. Read the reviews and make your choice. The difference will be additional circuits, a nice fuse panel to work from, wiring for your alternator, and helpful instructions or labeling for each wire that comes out of the panel. You may even find the price point to be better depending on how many circuits you are after. I have a little bit about it on my thread about the 55 Ford refresh and repaint if you are interested in a few footnotes...still a work in progress.
 
Hi guys,
My 53 is bone stock except for a 302/C-4 and 9 inch rear end. It was an old farm truck. The previous owner removed all the wiring and stored it badly and it is completely ruined. I need to re-wire the whole truck. ..... It is a negative ground 12 volt harness. Can I get away with just running some voltage reducers on the gauges and switch the blower motor over to 12v? ..... What have you guys done when you stuff a later engine into one of these? My truck was originally 6 volt positive ground.

(sorry, an OCD moment) The harness itself isn't likely positive or negative ground, that's determined by which battery terminal & cable goes to the engine block/body of the truck. A 12v harness has smaller gauge wire than a 6v harness.
I like putting the battery ground cable to the engine block or head. It's a shorter higher capacity path for the ground connection of the starter, and you'll need a good sized ground wire from the block/head to the body of the truck. In the unlikely event the truck has an oem clock it is polarity & voltage sensitive. You'll probably want a 12v fan for the heater.

What year is the 302? Does the distributor have points inside or something electronic?
Ignition wiring to the coil can be confusing and you'll need a 12v starter solenoid. (photo below) Depending on the battery & solenoid location relative to the starter, the large battery & starter cables to/on the solenoid can be swapped no problem. But the wiring to the 'S' and 'I' terminals has to be as shown. Also, it makes a difference if the ignition coil with the 302 has an internal resistor or needs an external resistor. If the coil is marked 'internal resistor' the 'I' wire from the solenoid is not needed.

Here's a link to some good 6v to 12v conversion info.
https://www.ctci.org/gilsgarage/6to12.php
The oem 6v fuel & temp gauges and their sensors are not polarity sensitive, but the best/only chance they'll work correctly is to use original sensors. Due to the way the older gauges & sensors are made they can usually self-compensate for the higher voltage. A gauge voltage regulator isn't always needed.
If the original fuel gauge & it's sender are in good working condition they should be fine as is.
But, an older oem 6v Temp Gauge will not work with the '57 & newer (12v) temp sensors.
They aren't made the same way and won't work correctly with each other. If you can find an original 6v temp sensor and get it to fit in the 302 engine that would work. But, they are longer and have different size threads. The newer ones are 1/4 inch pipe thread and the older 6v style are 3/8's inch pipe thread.
I used a set of heads from a newer (12v) car on the engine in my (converted from 6v) '55 and had to re-thread the head to fit the older larger Temp sensor that matches the oem gauge in the dash.

In the photo below the larger temp sensor may actually be a one-year-only 12v '56 version,
IIRC the wire terminal/connector is different, but the overall size is the same as the earlier 6v ones.
.
 

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  • 6v & 12v temp sensors.jpg
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I do not want to run a painless or similar harness. I want it to look original to the truck. My 302 is out of a '71 bronco. I want to keep my stock gauges. I understand some modifying of the harness is will be in order for the 302.

Robz51, I used them for my 48 F-1 and it was a great harness. Just not sure if they have something for what I am doing. I will call and ask.
 
If you're willing to do the work, these guys have a lot of old time wiring and terminals. Maybe just using the correct loom over a newer harness in the areas it show. Just looking at the terminals and odd parts is an evenings entertainment.

https://brillman.com/shop/
 
google vintage garage for your voltage difference's he has something that will work for all I think he's in California lots of vintage and new stuff
 
I do not want to run a painless or similar harness. I want it to look original to the truck. My 302 is out of a '71 bronco. I want to keep my stock gauges. I understand some modifying of the harness is will be in order for the 302.

Robz51, I used them for my 48 F-1 and it was a great harness. Just not sure if they have something for what I am doing. I will call and ask.
This should answer most of your concerns: http://www.ebay.com/gds/6-to-12-Volt-Conversion-1955-Ford-/10000000001571127/g.html The regulator for your gauges is here:http://restorationpartssource.com/s...UM9756iv-Hdlz1B0pMz6aXfk8iBq99HK_8aAk878P8HAQ
 
Also I would definitely look into swapping in a 3G alternator.
I am personally too cheap to buy a harness and never have. But wiring is a lot easier for me than it seems to be for an average hobbiest. I tend to use at least one size bigger wire than most factory stuff. Cotton loom is easy to buy and fun stuff. A little more work than plastic because you have to pull all the wires through.
If you keep the points you will need the resistor wire from switch to coil. I bought my last one at the local parts store about 5 years ago.
 
I will try to locate the correct web page for vintage sorry for the misinformation www. vintage auto garage. com
 
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Hi guys,
My 53 is bone stock except for a 302/C-4 and 9 inch rear end. It was an old farm truck. The previous owner removed all the wiring and stored it badly and it is completely ruined. I need to re-wire the whole truck. I looked around and saw that mid fifty sells a complete cloth harness for around $330. It is a negative ground 12 volt harness. Can I get away with just running some voltage reducers on the gauges and switch the blower motor over to 12v? Also I have to tie the alternator into it. What have you guys done when you stuff a later engine into one of these? My truck was originally 6 volt positive ground.

Why not get new 12volt gauges ?They look exactly like the originals.I replaced all the ones in my 55f100 .Replaced the stock wiring with an E-Z wiring harness.Everything in the truck is now 12volt with the exception of the horn.Also running Pertronix system and an alternator.
 
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