Wirefeed welders

Willit Stop

Willit Stop

Well-known member
Guys....I gotta patch up a fender and was thinking of buying an Eastwood 135 mig welder.Pretty good deal from Eastwood,$299 with free shipping.Has anyone used one? Are they any good?Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks and have a happy new year.
 
Normally you get what you pay for. $299 is not very much. Who repairs them of are they like paper shirts. Do not wash, just replace.

Been wrong many times, it is just something to think about.

Tim
 
Willit stop, Eastwoods price seems a little low when compared to a quality unit. I suspect this is another off-shore tool. I have experience with these 110v units made by Lincoln and Miller. There's also another great unit made in New Hampshire, can't remember the name, that my son has had good luck with. They work great with either 75/25% argon-CO2 gas mix or flux core wire.
I would be concerned about the avaiability of items such as contact tips, nozzles and replacement parts if needed. I've also noticed that the box stores are marketing brand name welders that are made especially for their market. The units from the same name brand, in this case Lincoln, are different than the same looking unit sold at welding supply stores.
There could be differences such as aluminum transformer windings as opposed to copper,etc.. Your choice, but this is a tool that I would look to the professional shop as a source.
I have a Lincoln SP-100 that i bought used 20 years ago and it has never failed me.
However none of the above mentioned brands sell $299.
 
I bought this same unit and I'm really pleased with the quality. I compared with more expensive models before I purchased mine as well. I'm really happy with how well it works for patch panels etc. I have used it on heavier steel with great results too, you won't be disappointed.
Pat
 
You may also want to consider the gas option. Provides much cleaner welds that cored wire.
 
A cheap wire welder will probably work on light metal like a fender. One thing many who just buy a wire welder don't know is just like all the different kinds of arc welding rods, there are many kinds of wire. Associate with the kind of steel etc is an "S" number which refers to the hardness. S0 is softest and I haven't seen it for a while but you can still find S1 wire if you check around, (default wire is often S6). Autobody supply stores may sell it as "easy grind". When you are welding body tin with a MIG this is what works best.
Practice plenty on a clean junk piece of sheetmetal the same thickness before you begin on your fender.
I personally use a TIG or a torch for sheetmetal but a wire feed can be used.
 
unless you get the shielded gas model you will be very disapointed, the flux wire welding wire smokes so much its hard to see your work, if you plan on keeping it get a Hobart, Lincoln, or Miller, as was said you get what you pay for
 
ford3 said:
unless you get the shielded gas model you will be very disapointed, the flux wire welding wire smokes so much its hard to see your work, if you plan on keeping it get a Hobart, Lincoln, or Miller, as was said you get what you pay for
Click to expand...

Ford3 hit it on the head, very disapointed could be putting it mildly.People that say using flux wire is allright have never used a welder shielded with gas. There is no comparsion. I have 2 millers(mig,tig) both excellent machines.
 
Used a Miller 110V wire feed for years for sheet metal work. It was great for tin but not much more. Bigger is better then too small so bought a new 220V 210 amp. miller that kicks a$$ and I am supper happy with it.:cool:
 
First bought a cheapo Silver Beauty, not too bad. Picked up a Century=better, then bought a Miller=very impressive & superior machine.

Another point I was told is that the larger machines usually have more range ability and will usually do a better job of welding finer thickness metals.

Might ad that the metal should be free of OIL and RUST if you want to do a proper weld.
 
I bought my Miller Matic 200 35 years ago. The only problem so far was flat spots on a roll of wire.
Very pleased with Miller products over the years.

Bruce

Works good
Lasts long time
 
I use both flux/intershield and gas with my Millers...ones a MM35, the other a Vintage (like thee Miller 200)...

You can make great spots/weld with flucx/intershield wire, when set up correctly...it's not as forgiving ad running gas...when you're putting in a sheet panel, yuo won't be doing a continoud bead, but ":spotting" all around...so after 4 or 5 spots, brush it off, let iot cool and start agin...use the spltatter spray,,,you'll be fine..

Eastwoood has very goos\d products, I doulbt they'd be selling junk, but don't have first han d experience with them.

It's not the arrow, it's the indian;)
 
I bought a Miller Matic 220 about ten years ago. I made a Fordban post back then on a thread similar to this one about my new purchase and how much I liked it. A fellow Barner who apparently does a lot of welding chimed in and said I made a very bad choice and furthermore he would not personally have one in his welding shop. Talk about deflating a persons ego at that time, but it has been a great welder for a novice like me and I couldn't be any happier with its performance over the years.

It would be interesting to hear from some of the members here who are proffesional welders on what they consider to be the best mig and tig welders by todays standards.
 
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I wouldn't waste my money buying into the "bigger is bette" mentality if 1) you know you won't be welding frames, cattle catchers, or bridges 2) you have access to a friend who has a bigger welder should the need arise.

I've a Craftsman 110V I bought 10 years ago. Can use the same tips, etc. as Lincolns. If I would need something big done, I can take it to work and have the welders there do it. They weld 60-70 yard dragline buckets back together, so my stuff wouldn't be a problem.
 
I have the Eastwood 135 and find it works fine with gas.But I also have a Hobart cybertig300 that I use on panels.The mig is handy for spot in and then tig rest
 
1952henry:
Just looked at your profile. Not a lot of people can say they know what a Dragline oiler is.
I learned on a Wayne Crane 3/8cy. shovel that had a 6 cyl Waukesha gas engine.
And a clothe line pull for the bucket trip.
Engine Rapped from the day we got it. But you could not kill it.
Ran it as a shovel for about 5 years / then put on a boom from a Marion and ran it with a drop Ball for the next 4-5 years.
I think the secret to these old Engine's in the cars & trucks all so is that the R P M's were low.
 
Sweet Job!!

My welder is a Century 130 110v. bought from Tractor Supply a few years ago.

It will handle Flux wire ( Have never tried it though ) & gas shelding

It has never disappointed and has done every thing I have asked of it.

not trying to steal the thread

The only problem I have ( yea right ) is I have problem seeing when I strike the arc I have the auto darkening helmet But I can't seem to get it light enough to see what is happening.
Could that be a weak Battery???
 
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