Wire Harness Replacement A14401 & A14403

Omar Morales

Junior Member
Hello, I am starting to educate myself on replacing both wire harnesses listed above for the rear brake light on a 1928 A. I got the diagram with the part but this is my first attempt at working on a new to me A.
 
Welcome to the Barn Omar, everyone here is very helpful. I’ve learned a lot in my 12 years on FordBarn. A good idea for a new Model A owner is to join a local club. Most clubs have a technical presentation or demonstration at each meeting where members can learn about a variety of topics.

It would also help if you indicated your location.

David Serrano
 
I think you are looking at basically the same part. There are a few options. With or without the 2 bulb headlights. Cowl lights or not. If someone has added a right tail light there is an option for that too. Also newer ones with turn signals added. Read the descriptions carefully and see which one fits your car. Don't just rely on year - a lot of parts have migrated to older or newer cars over the years.
 
Thank you all for the welcome! I did discover that I had the wrong wire harness. New one arrives Friday and I will post an update post install
 
UPDATE: As I am preparing for the harness replacement I noticed the current one has two wires and one cutoff. The one I bought A-11647 has three wires for the headlamp. Is it possible to guide me on why one would be cutoff and how to repair?
 

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If you are wanting to cut up your new harness you do not have the right one.
Does your headlight reflector have 2 sockets? One in the middle and another towards the top? The harness in your car is for the 2 bulb headlight (headlight & park lamp). The 3 wires are - park to top bulb, low beam, high beam to center bulb. The ground is through the mounting. Does your car have cowl lights? Then high & low would go to the socket and a separate 3rd wire would supply the cowl (park) lights.


1 bulb reflector w/Cowl lights
https://cwmoss.com/products/main-light-wiring-harness-1-bulb-reflector-with-cowl-lights-1928-31?currency=USD&variant=31539412402219&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&stkn=84a2ee9e6111&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21347078099&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIh-ebrY2UlAMV_5buAR0fjh4bEAQYAyABEgLLn_D_BwE


2 Bulb reflector
https://cwmoss.com/products/main-li...MIh-ebrY2UlAMV_5buAR0fjh4bEAQYBiABEgKVZvD_BwE
 
UPDATE: I got the new harness installed, thank you Paul Shinn. :)

New small issue now is the passenger side headlight connector. The harness came with a flat-top connector, but the original has a bullet style connector.

I would like to change it to a bullet style to make the connection solid. I have tried looking for the bullet style with not much luck.

Is there a better way than the current flat-top connectors?
 
a bit off topic, but i just gotta say. this is a job for just about anyone.
a New model A ford wire harness is the easiest harness to change of any of the cars i have worked on.
pretty much anyone could do it.
 
28 might be tough because of the "improvements" that Ford made along the way.

I haven't seen mention of the wiring diagram yet. There are two you need to be aware of right off...

These can be seen at https://www.lionsgatemodelaclub.com/Reference%20Info/2018%20Reno%20Electrical%20System%20Alex%20Janke%20(1).pdf

A third is similar to the second "Twolight" diagram but has the parking lights on the cowl rather than in the headlamp shell - otherwise identical.

The first is more typical 1928 - this involves a special "four finger" switch, which is currently not reproduced. SOME are available used - I paid $100 for an unmolested 4 finger switch (and switch plate) on Ebay.

The later Twolight switches are "three finger" switches and are characterized by a 12 button switch plate with three 3-button locations separated by three blank spaces. These are reproduced and what you likely will buy either in the switch or the switch plate/harness.

Working the earlier switch/harness is more troublesome in finding decent condition parts. Many "mix & match" an early switch plate with a later wiring harness. (Where I'm headed currently.)

Read over the materials then make a decision - and you'll find out certainly why so many 1950s era repairs were "kabobbled" simply to keep the car going - and legal.

Joe K
 
UPDATE: I discovered the culprit was the headlight socket. I went ahead and replaced it (thank you Snyder's) and I also went with this style of plug to keep the connectors in place. Success! Both lights are working perfectly!
 

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