wire connectors...another option ?

al's28/33

Well-known member
Looking for a longer version of the 1-3/8" long double female ended wire connectors for the bullet type wire ends. I have one connection for the horn wire that keeps coming loose and if it were 1-3/4" that would be perfect...... I have ideas to fabricate one (or several) but wanted to know if they come if different lengths already ?
 
Al, Just a question and a suggestion.... How many times do you intend to assemble your wire harness? I ask because the bullet system of wire connectors was implemented by Ford to expedite the assembly of vehicles on the assembly line.

My suggestion is to solder your bullets, which will deliver the side benefit of reducing resistance in your electrical system. Of course, each time you disassemble your wiring system, the task will take somewhat longer than as if you were working on a moving assembly line.
 
Road Island sells connectors (along with others) but no idea on the lengths. Might give them a call.
 
Suspect that needing a longer connector is not the problem.
It should take one pound or more of force to pull a properly seated bullet from the connector.
Most likely the connector is de-formed and is not tight enough to hold the bullet.
The connector can be crimped to close it by using a tube flaring clamp or any other suitable device.
When properly crimped there should be a noticeable 'snap' when the bullet is inserted into the connector and will take some force to remove it.
Also use a dab of dielectric grease on the assembly to help to reduce corrosion problems.
 

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"Also use a dab of dielectric grease on the assembly to help to reduce corrosion problems"

OK, I have a question, why does everyone use dielectric grease? Dielectric grease blocks current flow, very useful for some applications like sparkplug boots, or modern multi-pin connectors, but not the best for other applications IMHO. If you are wanting a ground to make the best connection or a single wire connection I would not use dielectric grease, I would use something that promotes conduction.
 
J
I think 51Merc is talking about the Dielectric grease that has a lot of silver for conduction purposes.
 
[FONT=&quot]The term "dielectric" by definition is non-conductive. The grease is designed to displace moisture or seal a connection from dirt/moisture that would create corrosion opportunities. It is really supposed to be applied to areas around a connection not between the conductive elements as it is non-conductive. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]When applied to conductors, close fitting conductors usually displace enough of the dielectric grease to continue to function while providing some level of enhanced corrosion protection. There is a possibility that dielectric grease can reduce connection surface area.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]An additional benefit is to seal out dirt which contains conductive materials that can create pathways to ground and a resultant “voltage leak”.

The Permatex website provides the following description for their dielectric grease:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]"Protects electrical connections and wiring from salt, dirt, and corrosion. Extends the life of bulb sockets. Prevents voltage leakage around any electrical connection. Also prevents spark plugs from fusing to boots. Required for modern high energy ignition systems.”[/FONT]
 
J
I think 51Merc is talking about the Dielectric grease that has a lot of silver for conduction purposes.

I have never heard of that, any brand names? Like COE Dan stated, my understand of the definition of dielectric grease is to block conduction, not promote it. For single connectors or grounds I would use a conducting grease, not a dielectric grease.
 
51 MERC has the idea, one of my bullets is a bit irregular but also that same wire from the horn is just a bit shorter so when I snap the connector in place there is no slack on either side. When I run a bumpy stretch of road, the connector pulls loose and I have no horn. I'm going to get a short section of brass tubing and cut the same notches as your picture shows but just lengthen the whole unit by another 1/4" AND crimp the end with the irregular bullet to solve my issue. The same rubber sleeve will cover bother ends of the bullet.
 
Anti Seize compound by Permatex is conductive, I've been told. Never tested it. I'm to understand the silver color is from aluminum. But... I suggest verification before using it in this manner.
 
You could always slip some shrink wrap over the bullet connector and wires for added insurance.
 
I bought this handy little kit that includes a supply of bullets and connectors as well as the tool to crimp them. Works like a charm for me.
 

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This looks interesting, I'm going to give it a try.

The 846 Carbon Conductive Grease is an electrically conductive silicone grease for improving electrical connections between sliding surfaces and parts. The 846 grease is designed to lubricate while maintaining good grounding connection. It inhibits corrosion and repels humidity providing an economical way to protect switches or to bridge the gap between contacting surfaces for EMI shielding applications. It is also great for providing electrical continuity between irregular or pitted surfaces.
 
Take a pair of pliers and close up the connector a little bit. That is pretty much it to restore the fit. That is what I do. I don't think it's too short, just to wide.

Looking for a longer version of the 1-3/8" long double female ended wire connectors for the bullet type wire ends. I have one connection for the horn wire that keeps coming loose and if it were 1-3/4" that would be perfect...... I have ideas to fabricate one (or several) but wanted to know if they come if different lengths already ?
 
We're all spinning gears here. His horn is bouncing, partially suspended by the wire. He's found his remedy in a book written by a guy named Rube.
 
I actually removed the two wires from the horn and measured them finding they are both 1/8" too short!!!....ordered replacement wires from MACS....thanks for all your help fellas.
 
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