Winterizing a Model A

W

wwirz

Senior Member
I do not plan on driving my Model A during the months of November till the middle of April. I use straight water as a coolant which I heard is the right thing to do.
What is the proper way to winterize the A for winter storage?? Drain water or not? Put rust inhibitor in the water (what kind?)?? Protect for mice?
Let me know your views please.
Thanks
Bill
 
I use a rust inhibitor (anti-freeze) year round and for winter storage, park it in a heated garage and disconnect the battery. As for mice, I have a few traps around the garage but the best protection IMO, would be a 5 gallon pail on the floor with a small board going from the seat to the edge of the pail. String a soda can across the top of the pail with peanut butter on it. They will climb the board and jump to the can to get the PB and fall into the pail. You can put a couple inches of water in the pail to dispatch them relatively quickly but even dry, they will only last a day or so. Easier to dispose of the carcasses if the pail is dry but, either way you will want to check the pail at least weekly. They can get pretty ripe with or without the water if left too long and you don't want THAT smell in your car.
 
Physics

Water @ 32 degrees F changes state to a solid (AKA ice) which expands and has cracked many many Model "A" engines. Drain the water.
 
I have done the same thing for the last 60 years.

Run car with the gas valve off until it stops. I leave less than a 1/4 tank of gas in car when putting away.


Drain water and stick a small nail up into the drain valve to make sure it is not plugged.

Lube everything well including changing the oil.

Remove fuse.

Cover car.

I have a heated garage but over the years have stored cars in un heated barns and have done the same thing. I regularly check car for mice. Once every week or so. They are most active building nests in the fall and early winter.

Enjoy.
 
How cold do your winters get ? Any decent anti-freeze will work put in for lower than your temperatures get. Or just use a 50/50 mix. Or just drain it and store it dry. I prefer to have anti-freeze in it though..

I store on full tank of fuel, run the engine on fresh oil, shut off the fuel and run until the carburetor runs dry.

I put car on jack stands and cover with light sheets. Disconnect the battery. Thats it.


Ooops, forgot about the dryer sheets and moth balls in strategic areas.
 
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Hi Bill,

Some use straight water in their cars and some use a 50/50 mix of coolant and water. I'm pretty sure that the majority that own A's use the antifreeze mix. I do. Not only does it guarantee you won't freeze damage your engine it also protects your water passages from rusting.

If mice are a concern consider putting it up on 4 jack stands that are placed into 5 gallon buckets with the handles removed so they can't climb up the handles. Metal buckets, wash tubs or something similar would be best as a plastic bucket bottom would likely crack under the weight of the jack stand legs. Take all four wheels off so the little buggers won't be able to jump up and use them as a way into the car.

For long term storage fill the tank completely or drain it dry. Much easier to fill it to the top as there is always a quart or so of fuel left in the tank after draining it.

Run the carburetor dry.

When taking it out of winter storage bring the engine up to full temperature by driving it or by running it with some cardboard partially blocking the radiator to get it up to 180-190 degrees for a good while and then change the oil. If using cardboard put a dial meat thermometer in the water neck and watch the temperature carefully. This will help get any moisture out of the engine block from long term storage.
 
Winterising the car amuses me. Our winters are mild enough that is isn't necessary but I am left scratching my head when you talk of antifreeze. I have read in several places that Glycol is a no no in engines with babbit bearings. If any gets into the oil, you have a big problem but if the bearings are babbit, you have a disaster. It will dissolve the metal and ruin the bearings, I have read. I never use it. I use an anti corrosion, lubricating additive I guess is available over there but I don't know under what name it would be marketed. It is made in the US so you must be able to get it. It is sold here under the name Cyclo. (They have a whole range of excellent products I heartily recommend and no, I have no connection with the company.)
We are in the depth of winter right now and can't use the Model As because of the lockdown anyway. It will be spring at least by the time we can get out so the cars are taking it easy out there in the garage.
 
Synchro909 said:
Winterising the car amuses me. Our winters are mild enough that is isn't necessary but I am left scratching my head when you talk of antifreeze. I have read in several places that Glycol is a no no in engines with babbit bearings. If any gets into the oil, you have a big problem but if the bearings are babbit, you have a disaster. It will dissolve the metal and ruin the bearings, I have read. I never use it. I use an anti corrosion, lubricating additive I guess is available over there but I don't know under what name it would be marketed. It is made in the US so you must be able to get it. It is sold here under the name Cyclo. (They have a whole range of excellent products I heartily recommend and no, I have no connection with the company.)
We are in the depth of winter right now and can't use the Model As because of the lockdown anyway. It will be spring at least by the time we can get out so the cars are taking it easy out there in the garage.
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I've read a lot of postings where folks say that. Personally I think that it isn't the glycol that harms the bearings but the lack of lubrication that is caused by the coolant it being either a glycol mix or just plain water displacing the oil from the moving parts.
 
Anti freeze - Prefer the Green Stuff.

Water - make sure to use distilled water. Before switching to antifreeze, used Waterwetter and MACs 1300 Rust Inhibitor in the summer, and antifreeze for storage. I always re-torque head for storage to help prevent possible head gasket seepage. There was a good reason, but can not remember now why I used both. Macs is available lots of places including NAPA. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MCC1300

Mice - at a minimum block the tailpipe and carb air intake. I used to stick a wad of steel wool in the openings, wrap thick plastic around it, and multiple wraps of duct tape. Now I took a tip and got white plastic plumbing end caps that fit over the openings, may have to do a little Dremel grinding on the cap opening to get them to fit. I have a truck, so remove the seat and store them someplace safe. A lot of opinions on dryer fabric sheets,/etc and other products to deter mice. Do a search here on FB, go to Amazon and look at the reviews, and just type it into google and see what pops up on the different products. Most products have limitations.



If you are new to the hobby, I understand wanting questions answered as they occur. Is disturbing to have unanswered questions floating around in your head.


Try using the Search function, you will find there is a lot of info, a lot of subjects have been discussed thoroughly before. So much so the vast amount of opinions and advice can be confusing.
 
vangogh said:
I have found to use a professional rat deflector. Have had no problems for several yrs now. Try Amzon
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Can you please explain:"a professional rat deflector"
I looked up Amzon but that didn't work
I looked on Amazon but no joy.
 
I plan to winterize my AA by adding antifreeze and making me up a set of tire chains. Oh and add a manifold heater.
 
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