Winter without a project?

GB SISSON said:
A holesaw was a real luxury item back then. Even today a nice setup is big money if you don't use it for work. The 1/8" holes joined would certainly show that the job was done 'in a workmanlike manner'. I'd think that following up the procedure with a Large tapered punch or perhaps a broken truck axle could fold the tabs over and provide a nicer rest for the heater hoses. There I go 'Churchin it up' again.
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Greenlee Hole Punch is the way to go.

Greenlee 7235BB Knockout Kit Hole Punch Set, 10 Piece, 10, 12 ga. Steel, 1/2" - 1-1/4" conduit size knockouts (hole size: 0.89" - 1.70" or 22.5 mm - 43.2 mm)

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https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-7235BB-Slug-Buster-Knockout-Conduit/dp/B000LDEZNO/ref=sr_1_7_mod_primary_new?keywords=Greenlee+Hole+Punch&qid=1641962938&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sr=8-7
 
cas3 said:
Nice firewall. Many of the wrecks I bring home have the heater holes made with a hammer and chisel. The really skilled would drill 1/8" holes in a circle, then grab the hammer and chisel.
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My '40 has an antennae hole in the cowl made with that method.
 
Jail Bar’s have really come to be popular in the past couple years. Looked @ a real clean driver in 2012 & could have had it for under $5K. No more, nice ones bring a big $ now! I always liked them even when they were considered the red headed step child of Early Ford PU’s. Quirky Cool! I believe inadvertently I got a Pretty but a Frankenstein put-together & reconstruct title called it a ‘40 Ford PU. Turned out it started life as a ‘42-‘46, the frame, rear fenders & bed & probably the cab we’re a Jail Bar & front end was a ‘40 w a ‘41 hood. Looks good, runs good so I’m happy, LOL!
 
I think that the wheelbase went from 112" to 114" in '42. I have some 40 pu front fenders and a '41 hood. I was thinking of doing a graft like you describe on a project last year but the wheel openings were off. I did not get very far down that avenue, but thought with some fender modification it could be done.
 
Jailbars: I think Gary has a corner on these!
Making holes: I resisted buying one because they are a little pricy but the step drills from Milwaukee tools really may some nice clean holes in sheet metal!
It made short work of this air vent project. Worth the $65.
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I am sure that would work on a lot of automotive applications also.

The 6 cylinder engine is sweet!
Regards,
Chris
 
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GB SISSON said:
I think that the wheelbase went from 112" to 114" in '42. I have some 40 pu front fenders and a '41 hood. I was thinking of doing a graft like you describe on a project last year but the wheel openings were off. I did not get very far down that avenue, but thought with some fender modification it could be done.
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Mine is definitely a ‘42-46 frame, bed & rear fenders, not sure how they got the front end on but here’s a pic. Went together pretty nice. Looks like they got the wheels lined up w wells pretty good. I’ve got different rims & tires now & stance is better. Haven’t taken any pics since.
 

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I have to afree with you Anthony, fitment looks great! I would love to have a measurement of a 40-41 pickup from the firewall flat face to the CL of front axle. Anybody? I have learned that firewall to front axle is a very important dimension when messing about with sheet metal. I would not alter this current truck, but thinking about the blue thing I built on the landcruiser frame. That could evolve.
 
AnthonyG said:
Mine is definitely a ‘42-46 frame, bed & rear fenders, not sure how they got the front end on but here’s a pic. Went together pretty nice. Looks like they got the wheels lined up w wells pretty good. I’ve got different rims & tires now & stance is better. Haven’t taken any pics since.
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482088
 
The space between the cab and running board changed 41 to 42. The blue truck looks like the cab is the correct height from the running boards for 41, kinda curious how it was done.
 
I once put a '47 tonner bed on a '38 tonner. The '38 running board is like almost 2 1/2" thick...( in profile) while the '47 running board is more like 1 1/2" deep in profile . It took some massaging to make it look right.
 
Hmm, further review of 41 and older pickups shows the blue truck isn't as close as I first thought. Clever work however it was done.
 
As I mentioned there is still a part of me that would like to put my '40-'41 front sheet metal on my 'blue bomber' that I built on a toyota landcruiser 4 door wagon chassis. The front '40 fenders are quite rough so I wouldn't be against cutting the fender openings bigger at the front. The current jailbar fenders are one ton and larger style with the larger openings. This is needed anyways with the 33" tires. Just thinking out loud for now. Like I didn't have my hands full already.
Back to this thread topic, I installed the spindles, tie rods and drag link yesterday after work. I have painted the backing plates and have brake tubing, hoses,cylinders etc on hand. Ohh wait my daughter and her family are visiting from Seattle this weekend, so I better run down before the ferry unloads and do some brake work!
 
If I could morph this thing into the '40 style front sheet metal it would look an awful lot like the one on the left.
 

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Here's a couple of pics showing the way I fix up an old truck. It certainly isn't a restoration, nor is it a rat rod, it isn't a resto mod or a 'rusteration'. It's just a low budget way to get a hulk back on the road in a safe manner and enjoy it and perhaps enjoy long term 'as is', or sell to someone who wants a driver or a truck for a restoration project. Either way, if I kept it here as it was, in a dark shed, no engine or trans, it would have been crushed upon my demise. Truth be told I kinda like a truck that looks beat up (or unrestored)on the outside and starts reliably and runs like a clock. It is the opposite of an old truck with 12 coats of hand rubbed lacquer over a bunch of bondo, a 4" drop and poorly done chrome that won't start. We've all seen our share those :)
 

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