Winter antifreeze
- Thread starter Jedediah
- Start date
Bob Bidonde
Well-known member
Where do all of the witches tales re Model A's come from? What you heard about modern antifreeze is total "BS." Go to Walmart and buy the least expensive one.
redmodelt
Well-known member
Bob that is wrong info. Yes some of the new types of anti-freeze are not compatible with vintage cars. The ones to stay away from are the orange and extended life types. It would take more time then I have to type out all the info, but just google vintage cars and anti freeze.
https://forums.aaca.org/topic/166583-anti-freeze-in-antique-cars/
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/288065.html?1336714053
https://citroenclassics.wordpress.com/2012/03/17/what-is-the-right-coolant-to-use-in-our-older-cars/
https://www.ncregionaaca.com/firstcapital/index.php/old-cars-and-antifreeze
https://forums.aaca.org/topic/166583-anti-freeze-in-antique-cars/
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/288065.html?1336714053
https://citroenclassics.wordpress.com/2012/03/17/what-is-the-right-coolant-to-use-in-our-older-cars/
https://www.ncregionaaca.com/firstcapital/index.php/old-cars-and-antifreeze
Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
When the last time this came up I put some pieces of babbitt the was unfortunately once my thrust bearing in a jar with concentrated Peak "Green Cap" (for use in pre 1989 cars) for a little experiment.
It has been in there for ~one month and I don't see any change. What exactly does the anti-freeze supposed to do to the babbitt.
I can see a problem if the engine was run and it was mixed with the oil but the same problem would occur with water mixing with the oil.
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ModelAMike1930
Senior Member
I use Menards 50/50 in both of mine. I buy it when its on sale.
30 Closed Cab PU
Well-known member
I prefer running distilled water/rust inhibitor in the summer and for storage green antifreeze 50/50. Simply and only because if a problem develops like; a leak, overheating through an ill fitting radiator cap, or steam you get antifreeze all over the engine bay and the outside of the car. Even inside the car if your at road speed with the front window open. A real mess, and can damage paint For those As in good enough shape this will never happen, antifreeze is good.
When draining antifreeze in the spring I save it in the original container. Then use it again in the fall when storing the car. Every year or two I add a bottle of rust inhibitor to ensure the rust inhibitor stays fresh.
I read somewhere if you use antifreeze, never mix types (green, orange, etc.) nasty things happen to the coolant. If you do want to change types you must thoroughly flush/backflush the cooling system after draining, and before filling with a different type.
Thats what I do and why.
When draining antifreeze in the spring I save it in the original container. Then use it again in the fall when storing the car. Every year or two I add a bottle of rust inhibitor to ensure the rust inhibitor stays fresh.
I read somewhere if you use antifreeze, never mix types (green, orange, etc.) nasty things happen to the coolant. If you do want to change types you must thoroughly flush/backflush the cooling system after draining, and before filling with a different type.
Thats what I do and why.
ryanheacox
Well-known member
Has anyone run propylene glycol based antifreeze? Was reading that it might be better on old gaskets and much better for the environment should a leak occur.
Also, has anyone tried Evans waterless coolant?
I would say anything that's been around for a while (green ethylene glycol) would work well as antifreeze in an A. Didn't they use alcohol when these cars were new?
Also, has anyone tried Evans waterless coolant?
I would say anything that's been around for a while (green ethylene glycol) would work well as antifreeze in an A. Didn't they use alcohol when these cars were new?
Looking at Mt Evans right now, at I70 and Havana
30 Closed Cab PU
Well-known member
When I was having issues with overheating, some people were insistent I should runs Evans, that Evans would cure my overheating issues. I researched and actually emailed the company, decided not to, sorry can not remember the exact reason. One was cost, if I remember correctly it is pretty expensive.
So research it well, there were definite reasons besides cost why I did not do it, the old brain cells just are not working very well these days.
Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
Yeah, The first one starts out "it has been in the car (1930) about 10 years I'm thinking I should put new anti-freeze in it."
Ya think???
nhusa
Well-known member
When my dad got sick in 1964 his 1919 Model T was just left in the barn with a 50-50 antifreeze mixture. 45 years later I got the car and after cutting the radiator cap off (Believe me I didn't want to cut it off but had no choice after week of trying different things) I found the mixture to still be good. I believe that it helped preserve the radiator and motor.
On the other hand the radiator of his 31 Model A was drained and it was significantly harder to deal with.
I run 50-50 all year round in both cars now.
On the other hand the radiator of his 31 Model A was drained and it was significantly harder to deal with.
I run 50-50 all year round in both cars now.
QUOTE: [When the last time this came up I put some pieces of babbitt the was unfortunately once my thrust bearing in a jar with concentrated Peak "Green Cap" (for use in pre 1989 cars) for a little experiment.
It has been in there for ~one month and I don't see any change. What exactly does the anti-freeze supposed to do to the babbitt.
I can see a problem if the engine was run and it was mixed with the oil but the same problem would occur with water mixing with the oil.]
Soaking babbitt in antifreeze proves nothing. The real damage to babbitt occurs when the water is cooked out of the oil by engine heat, leaving behind a precipitate of the silicates commonly used as a leak preventative in ethylene glycol based antifreeze products. The silicates, which are not soluble in oil, then circulate in the crankcase as a fine abrasive that scrubs away the babbitt.
Back when the government had its "cash for clunkers" program to get old gas hogs off the road, they wanted to make sure the engines wouldn't be put back into use again. So, they added sodium silicate to the engine's crankcase and left them idling until the motor seized up.
It has been in there for ~one month and I don't see any change. What exactly does the anti-freeze supposed to do to the babbitt.
I can see a problem if the engine was run and it was mixed with the oil but the same problem would occur with water mixing with the oil.]
Soaking babbitt in antifreeze proves nothing. The real damage to babbitt occurs when the water is cooked out of the oil by engine heat, leaving behind a precipitate of the silicates commonly used as a leak preventative in ethylene glycol based antifreeze products. The silicates, which are not soluble in oil, then circulate in the crankcase as a fine abrasive that scrubs away the babbitt.
Back when the government had its "cash for clunkers" program to get old gas hogs off the road, they wanted to make sure the engines wouldn't be put back into use again. So, they added sodium silicate to the engine's crankcase and left them idling until the motor seized up.