windshield leak
- Thread starter cvicky
- Start date
Alex Mcknz
Member
Is it a new one or an old one?
Jwawhite
Well-known member
Before using the sealant:
Fork seals on motorcycles sometimes start leaking from crud caught just under the lip of the seal.
A plastic tool is used to remove the crud, it's a thin piece about an inch wide? with a rounded type hook cut into it. Has rounded nose on hook as to not catch on the rubber seal.
Take a bottle of windex and liberally wet the leak area down and then slide the hook under the windshield rubber and pull out the dirt. Clean off the tool with a towel and repeat until clean.
My windshield no longer leaks. I used O'wrongly's windshield sealant with the attached nozzle.
Fork seals on motorcycles sometimes start leaking from crud caught just under the lip of the seal.
A plastic tool is used to remove the crud, it's a thin piece about an inch wide? with a rounded type hook cut into it. Has rounded nose on hook as to not catch on the rubber seal.
Take a bottle of windex and liberally wet the leak area down and then slide the hook under the windshield rubber and pull out the dirt. Clean off the tool with a towel and repeat until clean.
My windshield no longer leaks. I used O'wrongly's windshield sealant with the attached nozzle.
Daves55Sedan
Well-known member
I watched a very trustworthy car glass guy seal my '55 sedan windshield.
first, he took a thin plastic trowel and wrapped a cloth around it and sprayed windex on the cloth and on the glass near the seal. He used another tool to pull back the rubber se3al (it was still nice and soft although it was 20 yrs old). He stuck the plastic trowel with the cloth in the groove between rubber & glass and used it to clean out the groove. He got a ton of dirt out of it and started over a few times until the cloth came out clean. After drying the glass, he used a top quality tube of sealant and went all around the windshield. The cone shaped applicator on the tube had a very small hole cut in the end so it wouldn't spit out too much when he pumped the caulk gun. After the caulk was dry, he went around with a one-sided razor knife and cut off any excess.
If you installed your windshield without any sealant between the rubber and the windshield flange, you may never get leaks to stop. The '55/56 Ford car body has two snippets out of the bottom of the flange, one on driver side and one on passenger side. The contour of the metal slopes down toward the inside here so rainwater can collect here and leak down on your floor un-abated without a sealer.
first, he took a thin plastic trowel and wrapped a cloth around it and sprayed windex on the cloth and on the glass near the seal. He used another tool to pull back the rubber se3al (it was still nice and soft although it was 20 yrs old). He stuck the plastic trowel with the cloth in the groove between rubber & glass and used it to clean out the groove. He got a ton of dirt out of it and started over a few times until the cloth came out clean. After drying the glass, he used a top quality tube of sealant and went all around the windshield. The cone shaped applicator on the tube had a very small hole cut in the end so it wouldn't spit out too much when he pumped the caulk gun. After the caulk was dry, he went around with a one-sided razor knife and cut off any excess.
If you installed your windshield without any sealant between the rubber and the windshield flange, you may never get leaks to stop. The '55/56 Ford car body has two snippets out of the bottom of the flange, one on driver side and one on passenger side. The contour of the metal slopes down toward the inside here so rainwater can collect here and leak down on your floor un-abated without a sealer.
Ford blue blood
Well-known member
I have found "body working" the knife edge to a perfect as possible smooth surface works extremely well. The rear glass pinch weld on my Edsel had a lump of body solder just on the bottom where the roof and quarter were joined that was never removed. There is no way that rubber ever sealed up. The rust trail from the trunk into the rear foot well is a true marker of the leak. The 62 Bird, 65 Bird, the Edsel, the 66 Ranchero and the "new" 57 Ranchero were all treated that way and none of them leaked/leak.
To solve your issue, as mentioned getting all the dirt out between the glass and rubber is key. I would add that after the Windex is done do a final cleaning with rubbing alcohol. Watched this being done a a friends 41 Chevy. After the excess oozed out from under the rubber he used gas to clean off any remnants from the glass.
To solve your issue, as mentioned getting all the dirt out between the glass and rubber is key. I would add that after the Windex is done do a final cleaning with rubbing alcohol. Watched this being done a a friends 41 Chevy. After the excess oozed out from under the rubber he used gas to clean off any remnants from the glass.
1oldtimer
Well-known member
With a new repo gasket and new (or old) aftermarket glass (might be thinner) you'll run it to leaks sometimes.
I bought some dental syringes, cut about a 1/4" of the tip off, filled it with black sealant and went around the pinchweld and glass.......worked perfect.
Washed the truck a few days later and no leaks
.
I bought some dental syringes, cut about a 1/4" of the tip off, filled it with black sealant and went around the pinchweld and glass.......worked perfect.
Washed the truck a few days later and no leaks
.