Windshield hits gas cap

F

fins2nv

Member
I'm making a list of things to tinker with on the '30 coupe I bought a couple months ago as I won't be driving it again until spring. The windshield will pivot out and open part way, but it hits the gas cap and won't go any further. Is there a simple fix for this, or is it quite involved? It's not the end of the world if it won't open any further, but it's supposed to so I thought I would give it a try. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Assuming you have the correct windshield mounted the correctly, I would assume you have an aftermarket gas cap. It may just sit to high. You may try and getting an original one.

Mike
 
My case was the header. Screws were stripped and hinge was falling down. Ended up using wider screws as a temporary fix till I replace the header.
 
1930artdeco said:
Assuming you have the correct windshield mounted the correctly, I would assume you have an aftermarket gas cap. It may just sit to high. You may try and getting an original one.

Mike
Click to expand...

Absolutely agree with Mike. Just finished a restoration and the original windshield with great wood and tight screws would not clear my shiny new reproduction cap. Buffed my original and clears it by a mile. There is a big difference in size between original and repop.
 
We are also seeing this on a restoration we are doing now on a Fordor sedan and one of the issues is the rubber that sits on top of the windshield is WAY to THICK from the dealers.. I would definitely check this measurements with original rubber and I am sure you will see a difference and with the proper thickness your problem should be solved. Now finding the correct and useful material might be a challenge. Of course use an original gas cap.
 
When I got a replacement windshield frame for my Sport Coupe, I couldn't close it. Turns out on side of the frame was 1 inch longer than the other side. Had to cut it down and reweld the lower right corner. Fits fine now
 
If it still hits an original gas cap remove it and swing out the windshield and you should see 10(?) wood screws along the top. Try to tighten them. Hopefully this helps. If they just spin then you have header problems.

Sewall Tyler
 
"just pull out the grinder......................" Ron
__________________

"Just please remove it from the gas tank first. "- Montana Ford Man
_____________________________

Not to worry Montana Ford Man - - - - - . With all the water that is in today's gasoline, it may very well work as a 'fire retardant'.

California gas is now 10% Ethenol (sp?) - read 'water'; and soon to be 15%.per latest U.S. EPA ruling.

- Doug Vieyra, Eureka, CA -
 
Thanks for all the helpful information. I'm sure it is an aftermarket gas cap. Also, I don't know what was or was not done to the car by the previous owner. He had it about 25 years. I will have to swing out the windshield and check those screws. When the windshield is closed, about how much of a gap should there be between the windshield and the cowl?
 
On my 1930 Fordor the windshield hit the gas cap. Way back in 1963 it was not the orig. WS as it was drilled for a vacuum wiper, the car was factory wired for elecwiper and it had an after market elec wiper motor mounted on it. Maybe the glass got broken and was replaced by another WS from a junk yard.
I took the WS frame apart at the upper 45 deg joints and using a hacksaw cut about 1/4 or 3/16" off the side frames. Drilled new screw holes and put it back together with new glass cut to fit. Needed a new glass anyway and it cleared the orig cap perfectly. Years later the car did very well in fine point judging.

Peteva
 
It has been my experience that clearance problems very well may be the simple fact that the "arch" of the lower portion of the windshield frame has been compromised. If the frame is not drawn up tightly to the windshield, or the bottom arch of the windshield has not been cut correctly, the clearance over the tank cap is insufficient.

Gar Williams
 
I had the same problem as msmaron in post # 7 . The problem was the reproduction rubber that was suppose to fit between the upper windshield hinge and the header was too thick .
 
I know a fella that broke his windshield. He took the frame out and brought it to a glass shop. With the only pattern a loose frame with some sag in the bottom arch, the glass was cut wrong and he has the exact same problem that you have.

He keeps saying he is going to pull it out and get it re-cut, but it hasn't happened yet.
 
Aerocraft said:
It has been my experience that clearance problems very well may be the simple fact that the "arch" of the lower portion of the windshield frame has been compromised. If the frame is not drawn up tightly to the windshield, or the bottom arch of the windshield has not been cut correctly, the clearance over the tank cap is insufficient.

Gar Williams
Click to expand...
I agree Gar, the problem is in the arc of the windshield. For years the glass has been loose in the frame....and at every bump in the road it is acting like a hammer against the bottom of the windshield frame. I have seen this several times. I lay it on a flat surface and use a bar clamp to bring the arc back into the right shape. If you go to the glass patterns in the Ford Service bulletins you will see what the original arc was and that is the goal to shoot for.....we made a pattern out of Masonite 1/4" thick and then shape the windshield frame back to meet that shape.:D
 
I also agree with everyone who mentioned the gasket as they are to thick and need to be ground down to a thin gasket where it goes between the windshield and the body. The gasket and the arc are the problem check both.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top