Windshield Hinge Gasket
- Thread starter Smitty
- Start date
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
Don't use it. It's been determined that originally it was only a strip similar to cloth friction tape.
Smitty
Well-known member
Tom,
I had removed it once before and put a piece of electrical tape in its place.
Windshield closed ok, only problem is the windshield rattles like crazy when it is open(header is not in great shape however, not all screws will tighten).
Don't want to replace the header until I restore the body.
Steve
I had removed it once before and put a piece of electrical tape in its place.
Windshield closed ok, only problem is the windshield rattles like crazy when it is open(header is not in great shape however, not all screws will tighten).
Don't want to replace the header until I restore the body.
Steve
30cabriolet
Senior Member
Is there anything in the judging standards about this? I was looking at a Cabriolet this weekend and the window frame did not fit properly; someone else pointed out that the gasket was wrong and told us the same thing Tom did. How long has everybody been using the wrong gasket and why sell it if it is not right?
Marco Tahtaras
Well-known member
A rubber type upper weatherstrip was used on all '30-31 models. It's not uncommon to have fit problems with wooden headers, both new and old. With old headers (partially rotted) the windshield doesn't always pull up tight. With new header installations the metal face cover is often installed too low due to unresolved fit issues.
'30-31 headers are made with upper and lower sections connected by three filler blocks. The leaves a space between the sections which should be accessible if you remove the rear view mirror and interior trim panel. While less than ideal, I'll bet you could sneak a few hex nuts in there and replace a few of the windshield wood screws with machine screws and nuts to pull the windshield up tighter. THIS IS AN ASSUMPTION on my part.
'30-31 headers are made with upper and lower sections connected by three filler blocks. The leaves a space between the sections which should be accessible if you remove the rear view mirror and interior trim panel. While less than ideal, I'll bet you could sneak a few hex nuts in there and replace a few of the windshield wood screws with machine screws and nuts to pull the windshield up tighter. THIS IS AN ASSUMPTION on my part.
Smitty
Well-known member
That is interesting, I found my header with the 3 filler blocks and was under the assumption that it had at one time been replaced.
Some of the screws don't hold well, I was thinking about the possibility of using nuts and bolts...
That rubber gasket that the Model A suppliers sell is the correct one for the car? I know that I need to replace the header but don't want to get into that until I am ready to restore the body.
Steve
Some of the screws don't hold well, I was thinking about the possibility of using nuts and bolts...
That rubber gasket that the Model A suppliers sell is the correct one for the car? I know that I need to replace the header but don't want to get into that until I am ready to restore the body.
Steve
Mike in NRN IN
Senior Member
I had a similar problem, and was able to partially resolve it using the following process...
1) remove the windshield.
2) Select dowel rod and a Forstner drill bit of the same size, I used 3/8" dowel and bit.
3) Drill out the header to a depth of about 1 1/2" (be careful on the ends, there is not much wood there!)
4) Mix up epoxy (I used JB Weld) and plug the hole with the dowel and an ample amount of JB Weld.
5) After this has cured, drill a pilot hole in the middle of the dowel to provide bite for the screws, be sure to use FLAT HEAD screws - I did find some Phillips head screws that were easier to tighten using a brace and bit.
6) I was able to gain the needed space to open and close my windshield with an original style gas lid, the reproduction lids would not allow the windshield to swing open all the way.
Most importantly, I think this is a two person job. I tried a number of times to put this together by myself, but I could not get every thing to line up properly. One person to hold the windshield in place, propped up on a box and it allowed me to maneuver the drill/brace & bit more easily.
1) remove the windshield.
2) Select dowel rod and a Forstner drill bit of the same size, I used 3/8" dowel and bit.
4) Mix up epoxy (I used JB Weld) and plug the hole with the dowel and an ample amount of JB Weld.
5) After this has cured, drill a pilot hole in the middle of the dowel to provide bite for the screws, be sure to use FLAT HEAD screws - I did find some Phillips head screws that were easier to tighten using a brace and bit.
6) I was able to gain the needed space to open and close my windshield with an original style gas lid, the reproduction lids would not allow the windshield to swing open all the way.
Most importantly, I think this is a two person job. I tried a number of times to put this together by myself, but I could not get every thing to line up properly. One person to hold the windshield in place, propped up on a box and it allowed me to maneuver the drill/brace & bit more easily.