Windshield Frame Problem

Randy1944

Randy1944

Senior Member
1939 Ford PU. I was able to remove windshield frame from truck and then hit a problem. The four screws on each end and four of the small ones on hinge part and one screw holding center piece all have become very stubborn. I have soaked each of them with Kroil - PB Blaster - Liquid Wrench for three weeks and still they will not budge. Is my next step - heat or drill them out? I plan to install new glass. The old glass is still in the frame, but is not useable. Any solutions are appreciated.
Thanks
Randy
 
I have tried all of the above for probably 4 years and it still will not let me get the screws out. I'll get them drilled out by my machine shop buddy whenever I get the chance to take it to him. LOL
 
40cpe said:
It is amazing what a little heat from an O/A torch will do for rusted fasteners.
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X2 and sometimes requires quenching with ICE COLD water to shock them free. May take multiple attempts. Slow and easy is the key to prevent breaking the screw head off.
A nut welded on to the screw heads is very effective as well.
I wouldn't drill them because they are so small it's easy to ruin the threads and create another problem.
Luck.
 
39topless said:
Tried 50/50 Acetone and Auto trans fluid? Works great.
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Here's my experiment.....

I've had a very-very rusty nut and bolt soaking in a container of 50/50 mix
for about One Year Now. I take it out and try to break it loose at least once
a month. Maybe a few more years will do it.

If trans fluid and acetone worked, some company would market it :confused:

If you're getting ikt loose useing 50/50, then it wasn't very rusty.

Click on pix to Enlarge.
 

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I've had very good luck getting everything loose on my '39 cab. Kroil on everything, let sit for a day, NEW screwdriver for all screws, square shank will allow you to clamp a Vice Grip to it. Line up the blade, smack the handle with a hammer. Apply pressure to the screw head and use the Vice Grip to turn the screwdriver. Study the screw and area around it, you should see the oil move or bubble just before you feel or hear movement. Bob
 
On my 39 pu several screw heads were already twisted-off. I drilled out the shanks and cleaned the threads. If you don't like that idea I can also vouch for the "rescue bit". I used it on a broken ez-out in a rusted bolt on my hood and was able to save the original threads. It only took a few minutes but at $50 they aren't exactly free. Heat didn't work for me nor did any penetrants or combinations thereof. Once the screws are out the real fun begins separating the frame halves.
 
All of my windshield screws would not come out or either the heads popped off. I was at a loss of what to do. Then I thought who would be good at removing very small rusted broken or maybe stripped screws. I went to my local gunsmith who drilled them out for me at a charge of $4.00 per hole. Food for thought anyway.
 
Seeing this old thread come back to the forefront, I thought I'd make an
update on this rusty bolt that's been soaking for Over a year and a half
in a 50/50 mix of acetone and trans fluid.

I am useing 10 1/2" long wrenches, and trying as hard as I can, and this
sucker won't budge at all, it's still tighter than Jack Benny.

So much for the 50/50 mix, on a real rusty bolt. :confused::(


Click on pix to Enlarge ;)
 

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if your frame is the same as my 39 car the best way is to drill off the screw heads allowing you to separate the two parts, mine was rusty and took some time. you then need to remove the two pieces of square steel stock with the drilled off heads. i bought a piece of 5/16 x 5/16 steel and cut it and drilled and tapped it for new screws,
 
X two .The steel the square stock will just slide out .The hinge at the top shouldn't be removed if possible, Ted
 
If you have been soaking acetone and ATF mixture for over a year, than the acetone has evaporated. Soak for a few days, hit the screw driver with a hammer to shock the threads, and use heat with cold water to shock the rust.
 
V12Bill said:
If you have been soaking acetone and ATF mixture for over a year, than the acetone has evaporated. Soak for a few days, hit the screw driver with a hammer to shock the threads, and use heat with cold water to shock the rust.
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The acetone separates from the ATF and you can see that in the jar, so I add
acetone when needed and shake it up daily to keep it mixed.

This has been my experiment to see if this mix works good or not. It doesn't.:(
If it did work Good, some company would market it.






.
 
If you have a drill press fit the screw driver shank in it and press down on the screw as you turn the chuck ,back and forth ,Ted
 
I have restored several of these frames. I ground off the heads of the screws without damaging the windshield frame. Then use a sharp punch to mark the center of the screw. Drill out the screw with a bit that is slightly smaller than the size 10 32 tpi screw. Then use a 10 32 tap to tap the hole. This works best in my opinion. There are 16 of these screws .............
 
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