I'm going to be converting to 12 volts and my window motors are 6v. They also are sitting on the bottom of the doors so I don't know their operation status. I've tried to check them with a battery but the wires are pretty frayed and I can't get any movement. I was wondering if there are fomoco window motors out of a 56ish car that are 12 volt that will just hook right in.
Window motors for 12v 54 Lincoln Capri
- Thread starter B-ster
- Start date
dmsfrr
Well-known member
The grease in their gear boxes may have solidified after all these years. It should be possible to disassemble, clean and re-lubricate them. Frayed wiring is another thing.
A 6v window or seat motor usually works fine on 12v as long as it isn't seriously overworked/abused.
See the info at this link...
https://www.ctci.org/battery-for-6v-to-12v-conversion/
A 6v window or seat motor usually works fine on 12v as long as it isn't seriously overworked/abused.
See the info at this link...
https://www.ctci.org/battery-for-6v-to-12v-conversion/
There are two style power window motors. The short and stout ones and the the longer skinny ones. The fat ones are seen more on Tbirds and some Lincolns.
The skinny ones can be found new but you will have to sit down for the price. Especially if you have to get 4 of them. I accidentally burn out one of mine and had to buy a new one.
I would recommend to see if there's an auto electric place nearby that does starters, and see if they could rewind your motors to 12 V.
Also you might be able to use your couplers the rubber insulator.
While you are checking your windows. Change out the rollers to clean acetal ones and grease the tracks.
Or have a heavy duty step down to 6volt for your power window main harness.
12volts would just run them faster but I wouldn't run them on the 12 if they're meant for six they probably burn out sooner
Some auto electric expert will chime in just watch and see
Lastly. If you are using a new harness. The ford power windows of that era can spike in amps when starting causing blown fuse. I change my fuse from 20 to 25 on it and have any of the problem.
Ok so if you are sitting down now.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1932919668...iNWqjBJRY2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
The skinny ones can be found new but you will have to sit down for the price. Especially if you have to get 4 of them. I accidentally burn out one of mine and had to buy a new one.
I would recommend to see if there's an auto electric place nearby that does starters, and see if they could rewind your motors to 12 V.
Also you might be able to use your couplers the rubber insulator.
While you are checking your windows. Change out the rollers to clean acetal ones and grease the tracks.
Or have a heavy duty step down to 6volt for your power window main harness.
12volts would just run them faster but I wouldn't run them on the 12 if they're meant for six they probably burn out sooner
Some auto electric expert will chime in just watch and see
Lastly. If you are using a new harness. The ford power windows of that era can spike in amps when starting causing blown fuse. I change my fuse from 20 to 25 on it and have any of the problem.
Ok so if you are sitting down now.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1932919668...iNWqjBJRY2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
GLAmes
Senior Member
Making the motors work is a convoluted process. it isn't a simple matter of hot and ground. The up down switch has three wires, the motors have four. The wire diagram is shown in my '54 Ford manual and I have to assume there is a like diagram in yours. You need the relay box in the middle. Forget getting the motors disassembled for repair or upgrade. They are not designed to come apart and go back together.
CrownVic55
Senior Member
I changed my 55 Crown to 12 volt during restoration. I found 12 window motors from a 60 T Bird. Direct interchange. For relays I ordered 12 volt 30Amp rated relays from an electronic supplier. They are in a plastic housing and are about 1 1/4 inches on a side. More than enough capacity for the motors. Since they will all be out of sight when done, looks shouldn't matter. No problems in about 10 years of use. Motors can be taken apart, cleaned, lubricated and armature end play adjusted if needed. Having owned my Crown Vic for 63 years, I have had the motors apart several times. If I can locate the name of the supplier of the relays, I will add it to the post.
Ben
Ben
I would not recommend trying to use those new power window kits. It much better to clean up the original stuff in this case.
The self resetting breakers are like these on mine.
Usually about 7 bucks bucks each. Let the correct amp listed on your originals.
The self resetting breakers are like these on mine.
Usually about 7 bucks bucks each. Let the correct amp listed on your originals.
Attachments
Something like this might work. But it would have to be at the start of the whole circuit.
https://m.aliexpress.us/item/225183...apt=gloPc2usaMsite4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US
30amp 12volt to 6 color reducer. Should be about 40.00 bucks but hotrod resellers try to sell them for 120.00
https://m.aliexpress.us/item/225183...apt=gloPc2usaMsite4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US
30amp 12volt to 6 color reducer. Should be about 40.00 bucks but hotrod resellers try to sell them for 120.00
Daves55Sedan
Well-known member
If you can get the motors working, I wouldn't be too worried about swapping them with 12-volt motors. I had a friend with a '54 Ford glasstop with all the bells and whistles which he had converted to 12-volts. He left the old 6-volt window motors in and they went up and down like flint. I don't recall if he changed the relays though. I'm pretty sure the contacts could handle it, but the 12-volts might be hard on the coil.
Try snipping those old varnished cambic coated wires as close as you can to make a butt-splice with the insulated butt-splicers and run new thermoplastic 14 gage wire to the motors. Get a 6-volt battery to test the motor and see if it will spin. If it does, you should be good to go.
Try snipping those old varnished cambic coated wires as close as you can to make a butt-splice with the insulated butt-splicers and run new thermoplastic 14 gage wire to the motors. Get a 6-volt battery to test the motor and see if it will spin. If it does, you should be good to go.