Will not start

cjkohnast

Senior Member
Test light placed across points blinks on and off as I hand crank Removed test light and placed coil wire near head bolt I get no spark.Points are new and clean. Gap is .020.Is it a bad coil or can it be something else?
 
Rotate the engine until the points are closed. Check from ground to the movable point arm, with the key on. should be grounded. A light from ground to the arm should not light. Open points and your light should light. By light, I mean just a bulb and two wires. Not a continuity light with a battery.
 
Was the car running up to this point? An explanation of sequence of events would help.
Possible bad rotor.
 
Pull fat wire out of coil, crank it & see if spark is farting out of coil tower. Like, cracked, damp, etc.---UR, stick your finger IN it & crank! (ZOWIE!)
Bill Cracked
 
Do you have a spare coil and condenser to try. Or if you have a multimeter you can test your coil.
 
my delivery wouldn't start recently,distributor cap was corroded, might be worth looking at.
 
If you place the secondary coil wire end 1/4" from a good ground, open/close the points, if there is not a spark then there is a problem with the coil or condensor.
 
He said there was no spark to head from coil wire. So as Patrick L said I would suspect the coil or condenser.
 
With the key on, if you close and open the points, what kind of spark do you get at the points? A small spark or a big spark?
If you're getting a big spark, it says that the condensor is bad.
 
Is there an in-line fuse anywhere in your circuit? They're not always mounted on the starter switch. Some owners hide them on the inside of the firewall or under the floorboards. I found one behind the instrument panel! It depends upon where in the wiring the fuse is mounted whether you'll be able to get spark here or there. Trace all wires in the starting circuit for a hidden fuse.
I also unscrew the ignition cable from the distributor and touch the tip (with the key ON) against a head stud nut. If it sparks, I know the problem lies inside the distributor (points, condenser, short) or with the coil and/or its wiring. Check 'em all while you're at it.
Marshall
 
You can do an ohms test on the primary and secondary sides of the coil. I don't remember what the readings are and I am away from home so I can't look it up but it is listed in the Les Andrews book and possibly in some of the venders catalogs.
 
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