Will not start after engine rebuild

Don't be thrown by the wording "set the rotor opposite #1 contact", as in this case it means "NEXT TO".

Timing pin in cam gear dimple, the rotor should be exactly as this picture.
 

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Jim/TX/GA said:
As a quick test, instead of trying to start with the spark lever up, pull it down. If the initial ignition timing has accidentally been set very retarded, this might get it back into the range where it will at least start.
Click to expand...

I understand why you said this but my brow furrowed when I read it. If the engine fires when the timing is fully advanced, there is a good chance the starter will jam and maybe bend the shaft. (Murphy says that is when it will fire)
 
Okay folks, time for an update:
1. I have timed it on #4, still won't start
2. I have put on a working carburettor from another Model A
3. I found that the points were not too good, so replaced them with new points
4. I have tried different GAV openings, to no avail
5. I have put a new condenser in
6. Yes, the plugs are wet
7. I tried some starting fluid, and got a small "humph" out of the engine, but still did not start
 
That 'humph' may be the starter fluid igniting, or is may be the engine is kicking back due to too much spark advance. I would recheck the timing and use a light if necessary. you could pull the plugs, if necessary to get the engine to spin. Be sure to leave the pick-up for the light on the #1 plug wire. Leave the wires on the plugs laying on the head. Re-check your compression numbers...

Frank
 
LizardsA said:
Okay folks, time for an update:
1. I have timed it on #4, still won't start
2. I have put on a working carburettor from another Model A
3. I found that the points were not too good, so replaced them with new points
4. I have tried different GAV openings, to no avail
5. I have put a new condenser in
6. Yes, the plugs are wet
7. I tried some starting fluid, and got a small "humph" out of the engine, but still did not start
Click to expand...


are the plugs new?and are they sparking
hold throttle wide open gave it just a little bit of advance start cranking for about 10-15 seconds if no pop you better go back over everything one more time
i had something like this once was pulling my hair that i don't have out finally found out the points were not opening far enough set them back to .020 and its been running fine ever sense but it was not a new motor
wish i could be there!

i enjoy trying to figure this kind of stuff out

Tinkirk/Terry
 
You said, "1. I have timed it on #4, still won't start"

What does that mean? You want to time it on number 1 cylinder. The front cylinder. Standing on the left side of the car the rotor should be in about the 4 o'clock position as in Tom's post number 21.
 
Hooray! The car has started! We used some more starting fluid, and it finally fired up.
But....
There is a lot of popping and backfiring, and the engine wants to race. If I try and cut the accelerator back a little, the engine wants to die.
I found that the filter in the fuel sediment bowl was badly clogged. After cleaning it up, the car started without the starting fluid, but still with the racing and popping
 
Whoa! What do you mean timed on #4? Go back and look at Tom Wesenberg's picture. It is taken as if you are on the RIGHT side of the car, looking down at the distributor. The rotor is pointing to #1 contact as it should, when the "timing pin is in the dimple."
 
Sorry, meant to mention that the timing is back on #1 as it should be - it was just that someone suggested to try it, but it didn't work anyway
 
LizardsA said:
Hooray! The car has started! We used some more starting fluid, and it finally fired up.
But....
There is a lot of popping and backfiring, and the engine wants to race. If I try and cut the accelerator back a little, the engine wants to die.
I found that the filter in the fuel sediment bowl was badly clogged. After cleaning it up, the car started without the starting fluid, but still with the racing and popping
Click to expand...

Hooray! For your, a fast idle on a fresh overhaul isn't a bad thing! Keep after it, you have a lot of adjusting to do. Carb mixture, idle speed, maybe timing, etc.
Keep an eye on water temperature!
 
I'd get a carburetor from somewhere that is a known good running part and try it before you fiddle with the ignition again. One thing at a time.
 
Could it be an intake manifold leak? I had a gasket one time get a little crimped and it sounded like that--pops and backfires.
 
Agree you should check for an intake manifold leak. While it is running spray some starting fluid all around the manifold gasket area. If the engine speed changes you have a leak. Make sure the carburetor to manifold gasket is good and is tight.
Popping and backfiring can be caused by the flexible wire under the movable plate in the distributor being worn or having a poor connection.
 
Could be an intake valve to tight also not letting the valve close all of the way


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Had a similar problem with a newly rebuilt engine - tried just about everything mentioned above, and it turned out the problem was the intake manifold: it was not tight. Tightened it with a torque wrench and it started right up.
 
the washers on the in/ex manifold are spring steel and need to be cupped in. if you put them on backwards its very easy to crack the manifold causing leakage.
 
I need to give you guys an update on this engine. We found that the coolant had mixed with the oil, so I pulled the engine out, and sent the head and block back to the engineer's shop. They checked both and found nothing: the only thing that could have gone wrong was a failed cylinder head gasket. The rebuilt engine is now back in the car, ready to get all the other bits and pieces re-attached. I'll report back once the car is running smoothly!
 
There is no way for coolant to get into oil or visa versa between head and block. A failed head gasket would not cause what you found.
 
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