Why Can't I Get This On???

[johnr9q@yahoo.com]

It is loose at the top and bottom. I know it should be tight where it goes into the steering box and it does go in a little bit but no matter how hard I push or bang, it won't go on. I took the fabric out of the top bushing just to help. I am probably not seeing something obvious. I see nothing in the column that would restrict it.

 

[johnr9q@yahoo.com]

I figured it out. I just had to hit it a little harder.

 

[Marshall V. Daut]

Make sure the mask jacket bottoms out against the top of the steering box, NO gap. If there is a gap, the steering wheel will bind against the quadrant up top and be difficult to turn. This is a very commonly overlooked reason why two-tooth steering wheels are difficult to turn in "restored" Model A's. Tap the mast jack down until it seats completely! Then adjust the clamp and tighten the bolt and nut to keep the mast jacket from turning. Be sure to orient the spark and throttle arms in line before tightening that bolt and the two steering column bracket bolts under the gas tank. Check the travel of the spark rod vis-a-vis the distributor and rotate the mast jacket accordingly to achieve full distributor upper plate travel, another place for diminishing the Model A's performance.
Marshall

 

[Joe K]

Marshall is correct - but another and less obvious reason for binding at the steering wheel is that the worm may have been replaced.

If you drive it on so the worm is "flush" with the lower shaft end you may end up too tight.

Best, and I think I follow the instructions for replacement of the worm from Snyders, is to carefully "measure" before removing the original worm. Then set the new worm to the distance.

Very likely you'll find the shaft a skosh (technical term) short of ends matched.

Joe K

 

[Dino's A]

"Very likely you'll find the shaft a skosh (technical term) short of ends matched."

Man, I haven't heard that term in a long time! I need to start using that term again.