Who sells shift fork pins?

PeteVS

PeteVS

Well-known member
Who sells the pins that attach the shift forks to the rails? I haven't seen them in my search. (Perhaps I'm not searching hard enough!) I did buy some "handle rivets" in the local hardware store. They're the right diameter and length with a nice head, but they're not drilled out at the end for flaring. I tried to drill some in my drill press, but the drill walked off center. It wasn't pretty. Oh well- thanks to whoever knows who's got 'em.
 
I use roll pins, hope that's the right term- a tube like pin, spring steel, with a hollow center... Drive them in, the spring fit to the hole... Forgot the size... Karl
P.S. Dorman makes them, at an auto parts store...
 
Pete,
3/16 roll pins or split pins work...what I find is most effective is 10-32 allen
cap screws and a hex nut. The screws are bit of a bugger to fish into the holes but it
can be done. After tightening the nut firmly I use my cut off wheel to remove any ex-
cess thread and intentionally leave a bit of a burr.
Charlie ny
 
Karl Wolf said:
I use roll pins, hope that's the right term- a tube like pin, spring steel, with a hollow center... Drive them in, the spring fit to the hole... Forgot the size... Karl
P.S. Dorman makes them, at an auto parts store...
Click to expand...

I agree

Been using Roll Pins for years. I believe they are 3/16 x 1 in. long. Be sure to check the lingth. I am going from memory that is just about non existant anymore. :confused:

I have a good old Hardware Store near me that has all this type of stuff.

Chris
 
CWPASADENA said:
I agree

Been using Roll Pins for years. I believe they are 3/16 x 1 in. long. Be sure to check the lingth. I am going from memory that is just about non existant anymore. :confused:

I have a good old Hardware Store near me that has all this type of stuff.

Chris
Click to expand...

I haven't done one of those for about 30 years but as I recall there is enough clearance to saftey wire the roll pin....
Cheap insurance to keep a broken one out of the gears.
 
I was just going to say that Pete. I did mine that way as I wanted the insurance those pins were going to stay there. Hate to think of them dropping down into the gears.
 
Thanks guys! Only problem now is that I gotta make a choice. I do have a spool of safety wire and using the roll pin would eliminate the necessity of having to get a screw in down from the top.
 
safety wire or cotter pin either way. when trying to drill it helps to have a concave surface for the drill so it does not walk. center punch is a good start but a center drill is the way to make the concave area for the drill. The depth of the starting drill can be varied to also deburr the hole after drilling and create a chamfer edge to the hole.
 
Pete,
If you really want the Ford type pins email me off site and I can turn you up
some on in my shop. Just a note...I use a pair of forcepts to hold the 10-32 cap
screw when installing. The threaded end points towards the gears.
Some roll or split pins are too hard to drill.
Charlie ny
cas5845@yahoo.com
 
Pete said:
I haven't done one of those for about 30 years but as I recall there is enough clearance to saftey wire the roll pin....
Cheap insurance to keep a broken one out of the gears.
Click to expand...

Very good suggestion with the safety wire. It looks to be easy to do and add some insurance.

I feel roll pins will fit tighter in the holes then 10-32 screws. I like to get the forks as tight on the shift rails as possable.

Chris
 
Chris, that was my complaint about the "proper" pins sold by the Model A vendors. They had the hollow end that is peened open, but the forks were not held tight to the rails. There was too much slop.

Chris, the pins are sold by Brattons and others, but I would go with the roll pins.
 
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