white steam from breather and water tailpipe

I am pulling the pumps first in order to figure out the coolant problem. Starting with that seems to be the most imperative problem. I can’t address anything else until that is done
 
How’s this
 

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Picture is small. Very quick though.

Motor is leaking into the cylinder. Not sure how that is relevant to the water pump. When you run hot maybe.
 
I went to drain the block of the coolant and the passenger side didn’t drain. The guys a couple replies earlier said to address that first
 
GCSLogoRsm.jpg


Rick's 304 Flathead !

* 8BA block, tanked/fluxed/peened/line-honed, bored to 3-3/8”
* Block drilled for full flow oil, Relieved, Ported Out
* New Scat 4-1/4” Crankshaft
* All New Bearings (Mains, Rods, Cam)
* New Ross Forged Pistons, New Grant Rings
* New Scat H-Beam Rods, Rotating Assembly Balanced
* New Guides/Locks/Keepers
* Recut Valve Seats to 45 Degrees
* New Stainless 1.5 Valves
* New Hollow Adjustable Lifters
* New Isky Single Springs
* New Isky 400jr Camshaft
* New Aluminum Timing Gear
* Owner Supplied Offy 8BA Heads (Re-Polished)
* Owner Supplied Weiand 3-deuce Intake (Re-Polished)
* 3 Chrome Owner Supplied Stromberg 97's, New Linkage
* New 1-pc front seal
* All New “Best” brand Gaskets
* Blasted, Cleaned 8BA Truck Oil Pan
* New 8BA oil pump, tube, screen
* Owner Supplied Polished Water Pumps
* New Polished 12Volt PowerGen, Go Cat Bracket
* Distributor with Pertronix and Coil
*New Plugs, Looms and Wires cut to fit
* New Bolts throughout
* Fully Assembled, Engine run and tested
* $9,000 Total, Shipping by GCS (720) 284-1790 2019 Go Cat Speedshop LLC, Denver, Colorado.
 
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Rfd456 said:
Here are a couple more photos of the cylinder in question
Click to expand...


This doesn't look like a rebuild motor, not even new pistons and rehoned cylinders. Maybe a go cat issue, maybe I would not. I hope you get this solved. Hate crooks. I'd be inclined to be disappointed. Best of luck!
 

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Starting to think a bit looking at the buildsheet...you are running aluminum pumps i suspect from seeing polished pumps...
So pure water and aluminum...maybe that is one of the issues clogging.
 
One pic looks like the head gasket was leaking . But you shouldnt have oil in the water unless the rings werent gapped properly or are cracked , but you have decebt compression ?
Blocked water passage , got me on that one , do you have a temp gauge on each cyl head ?
DONT give up . It could be any easy fix . Easy being a possible sleeve thats not sealed , and a head gasket .
The pic is the one with the studs removed . Were your heads checked for warp ? If you have a straight edge check the head from the bad cylinder side .
 
look at those studs there some type of after market the shoulders seem very long are you using stock heads or alum heads if the shoulder is to long you will get torque reading but gasket will not be crused enought make sure you have enougnt pull down on those threads drop the heads on & see how much thread is exposed some times there is a simple answer .
 
How long ago was this engine built and how many miles on it? To me it does not look like a fresh new build - but hard to tell with the size and resolution of your photos. Also, I don't believe I see any 'relief' being done between the valves and the bores - this was in the build sheet, but it wasn't done. I wonder how many other things were not done - or maybe you have a used engine? If you blow a head gasket, you can still get water down into the oil - as the rings have end-gaps and the water will run through them if it blows and then the engine sits.

I'd love to see some bigger and better/hi-resolution pictures of the intake ports, the cylinder walls and the deck surface. If it was mine, I'd pull all the studs and really clean the deck surfaces well - they should be super clean before you start the new head-gasket assembly process. Make sure you use a high-quality stud sealer on the studs as you put them back in, with anti-seize on the sides of them and thread torque-lube on the fine threads.

Note: You have ARP studs - they are the best you can run with one of these engines.

Where are you located? If you need additional help, just send me a PM.
 
There is a small drain hole in the water pump that must be clogged. Maybe poke in there to see if you can't open it up. Shouldn't be clogged in a new build. Very suspicious.
 
I don't see how the cylinders could look that bad after 70 miles. I think you were given an engine that was not rebuilt but were charged for one that was. Maybe even a junk one to begin with. Take the pan off and see how clean it is and if there are H beam rods in it. Sorry that it appears you dealt with a crook. Sounds like the person is as bad as the one in Oregon.
If indeed there is a new 4 1/4 crank and rods etc in there I would harvest all the parts I could and start over from scratch checking the block first with a reputable builder.. All the parts even if new need to be checked since oil/water was run for lubrication so take it ALL apart. If it were me I would have to see everything in there.
Good luck, it seems you used up your bad luck.
 
I appreciate the honesty. And I agree it has to be torn apart. So far the only thing I know for a fact is that it has the big pistons in it.
 
No way that head gasket was sealing . Please clean and recheck with new gaskets . Take a pic with the gaskets laid on . Water will find its way to the pan . If it was mine i would not tear into it completely . You had good compression , oil pressure , no nocks or noise . Clean everything , lube the cylinders after cleaning and try the large bore gaskets .
 
What's with the peened block, also Best brand head gaskets? As stated earlier ported & relieved . Something isn't right.
 
The combustion chamber doesn’t look like it is ported and relieved. I’m sure more knowledgeable guys on here can speak up and confirm or not.
 
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