Which Wood Would You Use?

Pete, If someone uses So. Pine, it won't take paint. The only product I ever heard of that will stick to So. Pine is something called Enamelac and that was years ago. It was never very popular and I don't know if it's still made.
Terry

springerpete said:
I am not familiar with the FORD specs for a model A pu bed but they did use southern hard pine ( Georgia pine ) for '25 model T's. I would guess someone may chime in with what was used for the A bed. Whatever wood you use it will probably not get the abuse that the original did. If it is exposed use a top grade spar varnish with UV protection. Well worth the money. If painted use the best marine grade deck paint as it too has the best weather resistance. I also suggest that the individual wood pieces be not fitted too tight as they will expand/contract a lot more than steel with temp and moisture changes
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So the conclusion is if you drive an Amphicar Model A you use teak. Anything else will do the job, some better than others. Some look better and some wear better. If you haul gravel go for the very durable. If you use it for pleasure and you want it to look nice use oak or whatever is kind to your eyes. there Is no real answer just a whole lot of conflicting opinions.
Wayne
 
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You know, I love you guys. You always make me smile.

Now, the boards in my bed are probably original and very worn and weathered. I do, actually haul block and a bit of gravel once in a while. So I'm not sure I trust the measurements I'd get from them when I take them out. Is there a spec sheet on them somewhere? If not, it's cool, I'll just shape them to fit.
 
If you want a hard wood, that will withstand the weather use teak, or ipe. Neither need, or will accept, very well any top dressing. Teak should be oiled about once a year. Another hard wood is locust. Never use spar varnish. It will crack. Speaking from years of boating experience, use
Sikkens by Cetol. Look for the marine grade. Nothing is better for exposure to the weather.
 
From all the comments, Spar varnish seems to be loved or hated ! I would check with a refinishing marine shop before using it !
Wayne
 
Ash will last a long time. My family has been in the wind mill sucker rod business for a long time. I've seen rods over a hundred years old that are still usable. And we floor tons of trailer in it. And they last a long time. And don't scuff up easy. They get harder every year.
 
Rex_A_Lott said:
Whatever he could find that was cheap and readily available. He was building trucks, and probably never imagined one would last this long.
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Yes, Henry used every scrap of wood and what was left over was turned into charcoal. This is a very interesting subject.

Chet
 
Looks like I can't really go too wrong here. We have a very good lumber yard with all sorts of raw lumber. I'll ask them too. Ash and white oak still sound good at this point. And what-the-hey, if I wear it out or it weathers too badly, I'll do it again in something else.

Again, anyone know where I can get the plank dimensions? If not, I'm sure I'll be able to get it close.
 
Growley bear said:
I submitted a question to MAFCA as to which wood Henry used. I'm sure they will know.

Chet
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Hello, Chet!

The pickups used oak and it was painted body color on top and either body color or black on the underside.

I have not seen it documented if Ford used white oak or red oak. I'd recommend something from the white oak group (list below) due to its properties (a little harder, more dense, more weather and rot resistant).
White Oak (Quercus alba) - "the" white oak
Bur Oak (Q. macrocarpa)
Chestnut Oak (Q. prinus)
English Oak (Q. robur)
Holm Oak (Q. ilex)
Oregon White Oak (Q. garryana)
Overcup Oak (Q. lyrata)
Post Oak (Q. stellata)
Sessile Oak (Q. petraea)
Swamp Chestnut Oak (Q. michauxii)
Swamp White Oak (Q. bicolor)


This courtesy of Jim Cannon MAFCA technical director.
Thanks, Jim
 
Many years ago, I worked in a marina that was also a Chris Craft dealer ship. There was a older man who worked on fitting keels and strakes on the mahogany speed boats that were rotted or damaged. The wood was mahogany and the boat had to be "Soaked up" by hanging it with the hull in the water. If you took the chains off the first day, she'd go right down. Now, The clearance he'd use was about 1/16th of an inch. per side. Also we put oakum in the joints. (Don't bother) I think that if you measure with a good quality scale and make your wood 1/16 undersize you should be OK.
Have the seller cut the lumber, with their equipment they can do a better job.
Terry


Brobrian said:
Looks like I can't really go too wrong here. We have a very good lumber yard with all sorts of raw lumber. I'll ask them too. Ash and white oak still sound good at this point. And what-the-hey, if I wear it out or it weathers too badly, I'll do it again in something else.

Again, anyone know where I can get the plank dimensions? If not, I'm sure I'll be able to get it close.
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Or get very creative and use both White Oak and Red Oak. The bottom is made from Red Oak and the sides and rails are made of White Oak. All done with 3 coats of Spar Varnish. The lumber came from a local sawmill and the Red and White was what he had on hand. Boards came 1 inch thick and between 9 an 10 ft long. All was planned and cut to width by a friend and compadre Model A'er. The bed is made for the extedned cab I am building.
 

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