Which wheel studs?

Artiki

Artiki

Member
Hey folks, bit of a daft question here. Just bought a pair of the new 'Lincoln'-style brake drums to use with '40-'42 rear hubs, but I'm unsure which wheel studs I should be using.

Looking at the Macs website, it lists a few different sizes. There's one with a .56" shoulder by 1.38" length, another which has .62" shoulder by 1.46" and at least two other sizes. As they have to be swedged in to place to hold the hub and drum together, I don't want to be using the wrong one. What should I be looking at here?

Thanks in advance.
 
The centers of the new drums are cast iron and are thicker than the original stamped centers. Therefore the original studs are not long enough and I am not aware of any longer studs of the original style. None of that really matters because it is not a good idea to swage against the cast iron center, as it will create stress and the drum will sooner or later crack around the holes.

We instead use modern serrated press-in studs that press ONLY into the hub
flanges, leaving the drum to be a slip-fit on the hub, which also allows removal of the drum for servicing without removing the hub. The exact required studs
to do this operation are not available, so the holes in the hub must be enlarged and the holes in the new rear drums must also be enlarged to clear the stud shoulder. Also, a flat must be ground on the stud heads to clear the boss or ring on the inside of the hub, which also serves to prevent the studs from ever rotating in the hub holes should the serrations fail to hold them.

Since the introduction of new drums, there has been significant confusion as to which studs to use, and in at least one case, the studs provided would not work no way, no how. I am not sure whether that is still the case, but that situation led us to long ago procure studs that ARE workable, although they do require the above modifications. I do not believe that studs that will fit the existing holes AND be the correct length needed are available. Mac's has noted in their catalog which studs to use with the new drums. I am a Mac's dealer, but have never tried the studs that they now specify, because we have always used what we came up with originally and have been successful.

The above applies only to the hubs where the drum is mounted on the OUTSIDE of the hub flange, with the hub flange being concealed inside the drum. It DOES NOT apply to the drums that mount on the INSIDE of the hub flange, and where the hub flange is visible when the wheel is removed. That is another can of worms...
 
i had to ream my hubs out and use the dorman catalog to get the correct stud.
 

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Darren, I had the same question on here, which Richard answered as above. My drums came from Mac's and I asked them which studs I should use - and never heard back from them, which I guess gives a clue how straight forward it is.

I'm not ready to fit mine yet, but I was planning to measure up at the time and see what Maurice Takoor (Mister T) can do.
 
Ok I'll bail you out and try not to make it a sales pitch.. Follow Richard's advise as you have to ream the original stud hole out for the replacement studs. This is the number 610-234 if you cant purchase them locally I have them in stock.
 
I put the Lincoln drums on my 48, the drum was behind the hub, i found a wheel stud from a Volvo that was seratted on the shoulder and went through both the hub and the drum. has worked good for 3 yr. (7000 miles Laurie
 
DICK SPADARO said:
Ok I'll bail you out and try not to make it a sales pitch.. Follow Richard's advise as you have to ream the original stud hole out for the replacement studs. This is the number 610-234 if you cant purchase them locally I have them in stock.
Click to expand...

Well, the least I can do is to match Dick's offer... and no pitch.

We use Wagner BD-61136 on the fronts, enlarging the hub holes to 39/64" for a proper fit for the serrations. The existing holes in the drum will fit these studs. (The original front hub flanges are thicker than the rears, so a different length is required, therefore this # is for fronts only...)

We use Dorman 610-120 on the rears, enlarging the hub holes to
5/8" for a proper fit for the serrations and the drum holes to 21/32". The original Ford rear hub flange is a little thinner than the front and the original stud holes in the rears are a little larger than those in the fronts. The required larger diameter studs will not fit the drum holes as they come, so they must also be enlarged...

The drum holes must fit the stud shoulders without alot of slop, but
also without any resulting stress that could cause the drum to crack
around the holes.

Flats must be ground on the stud heads to clear the bosses on the
inside of the front hubs and the ring on the rear hubs.

I too stock these studs, but you can save $ by buying them locally.
 
here is mine story, i already bought the size reamer i was told to get (i was also told NOT to use a drill bit but to use a reamer). with the holes opened up i had to deal with that size (or buy another reamer) and these are what fit (i had to taper the inside of the drums on the rear), if your starting from scratch research the knurl length first and ream the hole to fit the stud you choose.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=278605
 
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