Which SCAT crank?

M2M

M2M

Well-known member
Hi Guys,

There seems to be a number of SCAT cranks available for the Model A.

There's the standard one, one with holes, and another with an "oil slinger" (whatever that is). Don't think I need the one with holes as I'm not building a hi-performance engine. What's the oil slinger version SCAT and should I get it? Thanks.
 
The "slinger" is the is the round protruding flange that fits with the rear main bearing to reduce any oil seepage at that location by centrifugal force action during rotation of the crank shaft.
 
I would go for the for a modern rear seal, to eliminate leaks. You may need an adapter of some kind to hold the new seal, ask SCAT. By holes, I assume that is to pressure oil the rods, not needed unless building a high performance engine.
 
Thanks guys for the clarification of what a slinger is; I think I could live with having a non-original crank seal if it's going to do a better job. Is there a consensus as to which modern seals work best?
 
AER in Skokie claims that the rope seals that they install on their engines after their work cause little to no oil leaks. Can't vouch for it.
 
FWIW, I have had two 'modern' (neoprene?) rear main seals fail on me after <1000 miles. I have since reverted to the traditional seal set-up, providing no more than minor oil leakage for ~6000 mi. over the last eight months.
 
Jim Brierley said:
I would go for the for a modern rear seal, to eliminate leaks. You may need an adapter of some kind to hold the new seal, ask SCAT. By holes, I assume that is to pressure oil the rods, not needed unless building a high performance engine.
Click to expand...


I did ring SCAT and ask; they don't sell them but the guy I spoke to mentioned something about Chevy seals. Anyone know what he may have been referring to?
 
I separate but related question, I need to decide soon which SCAT crank to buy...slinger or non-slinger.

If I buy the slinger version can I still use one of the aftermarket seals mentioned above?
 
M2M,

the Chevy seal referred to is the 2 pc seal from the Small V8.

Dan McEachern makes a kit for the Model B motor.

I have not found one for the Model A motor, someone may make one.

There is a Burtz seal is made for the model A.

John
 
Either the Burtz or Chevy seals require the slinger to be removed, so the answer to your last question is no. In the old days we used a rope seal, squeezed into the stock cap and crank. This worked pretty good but eventually started to drip.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top