Which repro qtr panel patches best for Cabriolet?

C

CabrioletDon

Member
I'm in the middle of stripping the body, engine and front suspension from my 1930 Cabriolet (68B) in order to replace the existing front crossmember with the correct one. With the primed rear quarter panels removed, I found found that there were patch panels installed many years ago at the bottom that are not well done, to say the least. The welds are rough and poorly done, the sheet metal is oil canned, and the beads don't line up. Although I hate to take more steps backward in the restoration, this seems like the best time to replace/redo these. I know that all repro patch panels are subject to not fitting and requiring work, but does anyone have experience with a manufacturer or distributor whose panels, beads and contours at least line up and have the correct shape like the original? I plan to cut, fit and TIG weld in the new patch panels, but would like to have something that can be made to look original. Thanks for any advice or direction you can provide!
 
Just had a visual check on my 30 68B and my sons 30 coupe and the rear fender wells look identical .The repros look to be good quality from Brattons and Snyders that I have seen so an easy fix you can just replace the lower part if need be the embossed pressing is a good jig .

John in completely locked down Suffolk County England .
 
They are unique to cabriolet and there are no other patch panels will work.

Honestly, all the patch panels for the A's aside from the Stipe ones are not very good for the A. I made all my patches from scratch.

I made mine from scratch. I used an arbor press and a hand made form about 1" wide to press the bead in after I made the front Z bend and the bottom bend.
I then continued the bend around the corner up the wheel well by hand hammering using the end of a solid round stock I had laying around that was close to the correct radius. All the seam I could was hidden where the fender covers it.

After the panel was made I then put he proper curves into it.

You will need to make it on the wood sill so line is right for nailing.
 
OOOPS I misread your post and thought you meant fender wells only .In my case it was an easy modification I just extended the bottom flange inwards to nail into original solid wood subframe . The outer inch or so I had to replace with new oak epoxy glued in place.I used stainless ring nails to nail the wider flange .

John still in Suffolk County England .
 
It appears you are asking about the wheel well area?

Don't matter, still easier to make your own.

Use a slot the width of the bead and some thing to beat the bead down. Start in the middle and work your way out. Leave the weld seam in the area hidden when the fender is on.
 
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