Which radiator?

I've only installed one Brassworks radiator and that was in a 1930 AA. It only weighed about 60% of what the original radiator weighed, and I had to splice extensions into the hood rods because the bracket soldered to the top tank wasn't made correctly. It cools fine.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
My friend has only been waiting on his bodyman to finish his 31 widebed box for 12 years.:mad:
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Warn your friend. In the years I had my 63 Triumph at two different shops, they both went out of business, one after having it three years and the other after having it four. At least it ran when I got it back from the second one.

It just seems that shops that don't put an priority on their customer's work seem to go out of business. I can't imagine why....
 
RobertB said:
Warn your friend. In the years I had my 63 Triumph at two different shops, they both went out of business, one after having it three years and the other after having it four. At least it ran when I got it back from the second one.

It just seems that shops that don't put an priority on their customer's work seem to go out of business. I can't imagine why....
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You're right. This guy is now working with septic systems. :D
My friend hopes he finishes it in his spare time.:eek:
 
FACT, they seam to be clueless as to were or at what angle to install the bottom tank water outlet. Having the lower radiator hose share the same space as your fan belt pulley on the generator will requite a repair by a local radiator shop. If you like to have all four radiator shell mounting holes match the holes in the repop radiator mount tabs you will be redrilling or leving out a few. Bob


Purdy Swoft said:
On the 28-29 radiators there have been reports of the tip of the fan blades hitting the upper end of the upper hose. Thats just one complaint, I'm sure that others can report more.
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Mike Peters said:
A few years ago I was in the same situation as you. 6 fins or 10. My parts man said 10 fins per inch actually impede air flow through the core, so I got the 6 fin version. Cools fine on hot days. If 6 fins worked back in the day, it will work now also. mike
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I agree with Mike but not his parts man. 6 fins per inch was adequate in 1928-1931 but it is worth noting that most of the cars traveled much slower. Fin density improves surface area and increase heat exchange contact points. Ford's engineers knew this and by 1932 Ford increased his fin count to 8 FPI in the Model B and Flatheads and as they got as high as 11-1/2 fins per inch in the 1939 Lincoln Zephyr on our shop floor this week.

Model A drivers today travel at higher speeds and may generate higher engine temperatures due to (1) aging engines or (2) engine modifications. The 10 fin per inch The Brassworks constructs is recommend for touring cars because it provides 40% more fin surface area in the same space. Ford used higher fin counts for later, hotter engines, and we use a 10FPI core every day for modern engines without consequence.

On a side note...In serpentine style cores you frequently see 12-14 FPI offered. Fin density is more difficult to control in this construction so one row may be 12 and the next may be 14. Downsides are; they do not look period correct, cannot stagger tubes and have less purchase on the tube (heat transfer exchange points). The upside is a thinner core and saving in manufacturing in both the labor and material cost savings.

If you see something quoted above 16FPI in a copper core, you may be looking at an stationary industrial heat exchange being use in an automotive application. Proceed with caution at 16-20FPI.
 
Apparently brassworks deliver cooling cores. My workshop in holland uses them to restore original radiators.

Hazelhoff
 
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