Which compression ist that?

Hey Christoph,
Hm, never have done as Bill describes, but maybe will on next application. Seems that that 'cleanout' of head stud holes makes sense, as I've been there and done the scraping of the head holes with studs. Glad that you feel relieved about progress. Let us know how that silly cone head gasket works out eventually. Luck to you !
 
Ja Hardtimes
I will be back once car is running again.

2 ideas now.

1)
My police-head (as well as the engine) is just 2 years old
We didnt check the new Head prior to installation.
I now found it VERY HEAVY clogged in one of the small passages.

If you buy a new head, apply some air pressure to the 4 small
passages and make sure they are not clogged right from the factory.
Listen to the sound of the air and just to be sure put a wet
finger in the next bigger water-passage to find out about.

2)
Even if we built a new engine, blocks are old and in most cases the
bolts to the head are not even. If installation of the head aint EASY,
you will have a real-bad time once you have to demount things.
If bolts sticks in the holes during installation, how should pressure
of the bolts find its way to the head-gasket.
I oversized 0,5 mm (which might be much)
Bill oversized 1/64" which is 0,4 mm.

Just my opinion: If you need to force the head onto the block
for installation, there is something wrong

Have fun.
Best regards
Christoph
 
hardtimes said:
Hey Christoph,
Hm, never have done as Bill describes, but maybe will on next application. Seems that that 'cleanout' of head stud holes makes sense, as I've been there and done the scraping of the head holes with studs. Glad that you feel relieved about progress. Let us know how that silly cone head gasket works out eventually. Luck to you ![/QUOTE
I recomember one guy on here, PISSING about the NEW red sillycone gasket leaking +&&%^$%$%------Whin he pulled it off, yea, you guessed it, a BIG flake of RUST, laying across a RED seal line, around a water hole!! When you're doing a head gasket, CLEANLINESS IS NEXT TO GODLINESS & THE HEAD'S GOTTA' BE FLATTER THAN A flitter! When I worked Jaguars, I made a 1/2 round scraper to clean the studs. Them Mothers must have had 47 studs, almost a foot long! What a chore, when they're stuck with calcium, or electrolysis or whatever that WHITE crap was that seized the ALUJIMUM HEAD to the studs & NO room even for collett type stud removers. +*%&%$&$%^ (And you wonder WHY I'm a KRAZY man???)
Bill W.
Click to expand...
 
hardtimes said:
For your information, there is a 'newer/different' repair that is better/stronger than heli-coil. Getting old and can not retrieve the name at this exact moment. ?
Click to expand...


Time-sert is probably the product.

Helicoils can be trouble as they expand on the way out. The timeserts aren't a spring, and I've never had one come out anyway - even on a VW sparkplug, which are notoriuos for winding out helicoils and destroying the head.
 
Update:

I used that Silicone-gasket (which is sticky all over)
without any changes (to the gasket) and put it to the engine

Than i put head back on an and reassembly was as expected.
Time-consuming but ok.

Tightened head with 55 ft-lbs.
Engine fired up within a sec an runs smooth again.
No bubbles anymore, even once engine is hot .
No oil in water; No water in oil and nothing leaking to the outside....

Will re-torque bolts twice but i guess, prob is solved.

If i will have to demount the head (someday) again, im
pretty confident, that it will not be a pain again.
:D

I still believe my posting no 23 is correct.
Holes in my head where 12mm without changes.
I drilled to 12,5mm (as such a drill was available)

Even engine is running great now , i would not
oversize as much again. If there ever is a "next time",
i will try 12,3mm ....

Happy motoring
best regards
Christoph


@ Bill : Thank you for your help and confidence.
You are a real friend :D If you are KRAZY, i want to be Krazy too.

@hardtimes : A little oversize-drilling of the holes will reduce "hardtimes" somewhat :cool:

@ Allanw: Thank you for your info, but 55ft-lbs aint much and i
guess Heli-coil will be sufficient here ... (you wont take out the studs
as often as you might take out a spark-plug)
 
Christoph, your caliper is metric, Ford worked in inches. 11mm = .437 (+ or-) .437= 7/16. Thread size- 7/16 X 20 Threads per inch. These are American fine threads, on the top of the stud. The part that screws into the block is 7/16 X 14, or the coarse thread. Run your fingers down the length of the stud and you will feel a slight shoulder about halfway down.
This was to locate the head once it was in place. I would suggest drilling the head with no bigger than an 11.5 mm or about .457/.460 Bohrer. If I remember correctly, The holes are 1/64th oversize already, or about .015. 29/64ths
I have a Swiss Etalon vernier caliper that reads metric on top and inches on the bottom.
Terry


Christoph said:
hardtimes

Thank you
I really appreciate your ideas !

Snyders nowadays uses perma-coil but I guess
its just another name for Heli-coil???
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/4978

I guess the heli-coil are still ok .

I had to dremel one slightly as i found it to
be higher than the Block
(close to the stud - no issue)

your asking for CC and i think you are talking
about compression ?
(sorry - not my fathers language )

prior to demounting:
cold 5,5 4,6 4,9 4,8
hot 6,0 5,25 4,75 5,0
no 3 was hot somewhat lower than cold !

My all german calliper says:
Studs are 11mm and holes are 12mm
Did you ever try to “widen” the holes in the head ??
(To my opinion, the head has to go slick to the block.)
I guess I will try to go to 12,2 or something.
This evening I will compare the Silicone-headgasket to
the head and will figure out if it still will be able to
seal than…

Thank you again
Christoph
Click to expand...
 
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