Where to buy water pumps

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Fordman487

Member
Hey gang, Where would everyone suggest purchasing new water pumps from for a 1935 pick-up truck? I'm looking for the best performance, quality and longevity,...... Is there a difference between Macs, Dennis Carpenter, Drake or do they all come from the same supplier?

Thanks!
 
Not sure if they come from the same supplier but I'm pretty sure they all come from China. Some people say they are great but I have a natural reservation to put parts on my car that may have been built to price or quantity standards rather than a quality standard. If I was you I would get some originals rebuilt by Skip Haney. He will probably be able to sell you the cores as well.-Karl
 
Hi Everyone, for completeness, Skip has contact information at www.fordcollector.com He's a long-time go-to guy for remanufactured/redesigned water pumps. Good pieces, from my experience on a '35 I recently got. He's also known for coil rebuilding, and being a straight-up vendor. Quality and service are first class!
 
I just got a set from Fryers Early Ford Water Pumps in Redlands CA. Daryl Fryer provides excellent quality, help, and super service. Phone: (909) 335-1418
 
MGG said:
I just got a set from Fryers Early Ford Water Pumps in Redlands CA. Daryl Fryer provides excellent quality, help, and super service. Phone: (909) 335-1418
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As MGG, says if your going to by new Fryers is by far superior. He has all of his castings done locally, uses a sealed bearing with ceramic seal and all done in house and made in America.
 
Mr. Will said:
As MGG, says if your going to by new Fryers is by far superior. He has all of his castings done locally, uses a sealed bearing with ceramic seal and all done in house and made in America.
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He also uses a VERY small bearing from a air conditioner compressor.
This is very close to the seal and all seals leak. They need to leak some
because this is what lubricates the seal and seat. This water becomes
super hot and a small amount gets into the bearing leading to bearing
failures. I have seen a number of these pumps that were sent back to
the rebuilder 3 or 4 times before being sent to Skip who converted them
back to bushings. In the 20,000 or more bushing pumps Skip has rebuilt
we have only seen maybe a dozen with worn out bushings. These were
worn by the belt being pulled up to tight and some even wore through
the casting. Even then the pump didn't fail the, pump was changed
because the back of the pulley was dragging on the face of the pump
and making a loud noise. In a bushing pump there is a thin film of
oil between the shaft and bushing. The shaft rides on this film of oil and
NEVER touches the shaft. With pumps in service over 20 years NO ONE
has ever been charged for a repair if it failed. G.M.
 
bushings over bearings is there a modern car out there that has a water pump with bushings. todays car run at 190 + temp with 13lb or more rad pressure.go 70 mph hours on end & the water pumps last well over 100.000 miles.
 
richard crow said:
bushings over bearings is there a modern car out there that has a water pump with bushings. todays car run at 190 + temp with 13lb or more rad pressure.go 70 mph hours on end & the water pumps last well over 100.000 miles.
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The bushings have been proven for over 80 years in lower RPM engines
without a lot of accessories being belt driven. Myself I wouldn't drive a
water pumps with bearings in an old Ford over 100 miles from home
because AAA only tows 100 miles. When a bearing pump go's it's
normally replace or get towed. A bushing pump is rare to seize up. G.M.
 
From my own experience, I'll stay with Skip, when ever I need water pumps rebuilt. He has rebuilt OEM water pumps for my '39 Ford CS, '39LZ, '47 Ford Convertible, etc. I've yet to have any problems with the pumps Skip rebuilt.:)
 
I understand Skip sells (and recommends) a small valve to go on the end of the overflow pipe. This is to prevent splash of coolant out the overflow due to the high turbulence and the rapid flow. It has an approx. 3psi blow off where as to not impede any expansion of the coolant requiring overflow.

Any thoughts if this is good or bad?
 
Fordman487 said:
I understand Skip sells (and recommends) a small valve to go on the end of the overflow pipe. This is to prevent splash of coolant out the overflow due to the high turbulence and the rapid flow. It has an approx. 3psi blow off where as to not impede any expansion of the coolant requiring overflow.

Any thoughts if this is good or bad?
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The upper tank in my '38 has a lot of surface area. I put a 4# cap on it and could hear the tank oil-canning when the pressure increased. I removed the pressure cap and put a coolant reservoir on the overflow tube. The coolant expands and contracts to/from the reservoir with no loss of coolant.
 
40cpe said:
The upper tank in my '38 has a lot of surface area. I put a 4# cap on it and could hear the tank oil-canning when the pressure increased. I removed the pressure cap and put a coolant reservoir on the overflow tube. The coolant expands and contracts to/from the reservoir with no loss of coolant.
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The "expansion tank" is better than Skip 3 lb valve. This allows coolant to
go into the container placed on the left front frame rail. As the coolant
expands or is pushed out the overflow due to heat the normal restriction
of the 144 radiator tube it collects in the container. As long as the is normal
heat or tube restriction coolant that is OK but if it is due to compression
getting into the cooling system that's not good. The normal coolant in the
container will return into the engine as the engine cools. At 155 degrees
there is a vacuum in the system, this vacuum draws the coolant back into
the engine. A pressure cap with a container as described will do the same
thing. Skips valve is a ONE WAY valve and will not let water back in. A lot
of expansion is taken in the large diameter long radiator hoses. G.M.
 
G.M. said:
The bushings have been proven for over 80 years in lower RPM engines
without a lot of accessories being belt driven. Myself I wouldn't drive a
water pumps with bearings in an old Ford over 100 miles from home
because AAA only tows 100 miles. When a bearing pump go's it's
normally replace or get towed. A bushing pump is rare to seize up. G.M.
Click to expand...

Does this include the original Ford water pumps with bearings from the factory? I'm talking about the double belt "truck" pumps with sealed bearings and the later 8BA style.
Or you just talking about the reproduction and or converted bushing ones with the tiddly little bearing?
Martin.
 
scooder said:
Does this include the original Ford water pumps with bearings from the factory? I'm talking about the double belt "truck" pumps with sealed bearings and the later 8BA style.
Or you just talking about the reproduction and or converted bushing ones with the tiddly little bearing?
Martin.
Click to expand...

The later year pumps like the 8BA type were designed with a longer
snout. These pumps were designed for the use of bearings. G.M.
 
If there were no expansion tank, and no valve, how much coolant do you think would overflow out? Enough to make a difference? Is a valve or tank necessary? Does anyone run without either? Thanks for everyone's advice and patience as I'm still new to all this
 
My tank is listed as 1 1/2 qt. On an 80 degree day it will go from about 1/4 full when cold to about 3/4 full when engine temp is about 170 degrees. I didn't have it on the car during the hot summer, so don't have any feedback on higher temps. This is on a fresh flathead with a freshly reconditioned 4 row original '38 radiator. I understand the main advantage is keeping air out of the cooling system.
 
Skip is my choice,does a great job, stands behind his work.Work done in the US.He is a asset to are hobby and would not think of using any buddy else.Just my 2 cents,I have cores if needed
 
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