Where does one find an oil return pipe?

Pat Martone

Pat Martone

Senior Member
I happened to notice that engine valve side cover oil return pipes (tubes) do not seem to be available from the vendors. Everyone seems to have the gasket sets, but the not pipes. Does no one (not even A&L) make this item?
Could it be that the only way to get an oil return pipe would be to find an original at some place like Bert's Model A parts in Denver?
I am asking because I am curious since noticing that my pipe is leaking oil at the upper end of the pipe, not where the tube is soldered to the "cup" but where the "cup" actually meets the valve side cover. I have replaced the gaskets 3 times, and I did not overtorque the bolts, and I tried both the paper and cork gaskets and used both a little bit and also a lot of Permatex number 2 gasket sealer. It still leaks a bit and I am wondering if I should buy another oil return pipe but couldn't find one available from the vendors. Perhaps I should trying installing the pipe again, this time using the cork gaskets and soaking them in motor oil before installing instead of using Permatex gasket sealer?
Just curious; thanks.
 
Are you sure it's at the gasket seal point. You haven't forgotten the small copper gasket at the bolt?

If all is as it should be perhaps a crack in either the cover/block or in the cup?

Either of these could likely be remedied by a coating of glyptol or other oil impervious paint. The cup itself might be soldered once the crack is found?

Or you might have an issue with "alignment" between the two cups. One cup may be 'canted" preventing a good seal at the gasket? In this case a re-build like has been described in recent literature might be in order.

Joe K
 
Thanks for the reply Joe K.
I did not forget the gasket with the bolts, and I will have to check to make sure the cups are not canted away from each other in any direction.
However, I wonder if I can buy a another oil return pipe, and where?
Also, can you please tell me where to find the oil return pipe rebuild/restoration instructions?
Thank you.
 
These return pipes are really easy to repair with solder, the hard part is finding the hole. I had a leaker on the AA when we first fired her up and it turned out to be a pin hole in the back of the pipe about a 1/4" down from the top cup. After removal I could not see the hole as it was covered in fresh paint. I place a finger over each end and submerged it in a bucket of water and Bingo the bubbles indicated the hole. Removed the paint shined the tube up and a little bit of flux, retinned and soldered the hole up. This took less time then it took for the new coat of black paint to dry.
 
I have at least a dozen of them and once in a while advertise them here on ford barn. There are two lengths and about the only time I have a buyer is when an early owner wants to change both his valve cover and oil line per page 342 (May 1929) in the Service Bulletins to the later style to reduce oil consumption. I also have quite a few of the later valve chamber cover for this upgrade as both the cover and the return tube have to be changed to upgrade.
 
Wow! Thank you for all of the informative and generous replies, including the offer of a free oil return tube from my local friend, "mass A Man".
I will remove and attempt to "study" my existing oil return pipe for leaks, cup misalignment, and any other damage, before entertaining the generous offers by fordbarners.
Question: If I can fix mine, when I reinstall, using the cork gaskets, should I soak them in motor oil first, or should I use Permatex number 2 gasket sealer?
Thanks.
 
I would just install them as they are and not bother with sealer. Just snug them up with the bolt so the cork compresses a little. We are not dealing with high pressure here.
 
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Hello Pat,
Here is a pic of the two covers and pipes, as you can see the pipe is bolted to the cover and the other end is laying on the bench, this will show if the two ends are misaligned.
 

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If one of the ends has become unsoldered, I clean them up with sandpaper and slip the end back on with a coat of JB weld and wipe off the excess. I then install the oil line on the engine with gaskets in place. The JB sets up with the oil line on the engine and this correctly locates the angle of the pipe end. I use a touch of permatex on the gaskets and let it sit for 16 to 24 hours before returning it to use. This works good for me. I've used JB on cracked blocks and stripped jeep hubs and axles and have no fear that JB would fail. There is no pressure, its just gravity overflow.
 
Some have the ends soldered and some were brazed.

It is good to find one that is brazed which are pretty obvious from the brass color when you scrap around the joint.
 
Not sure about your area but here we have swap meets. The prices tend to be half of the eBay prices.
 
I had the cockeyed cup problem and fixied it bolting the pipe up without gaskets. I then put a propane torch on the tube near each cup and when the solder relaxed I tightened the bolts. This allowed both cups to sit flush and allowed the gaskets to do their job easier.
 
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