Where do I look to correct this?

F

fairwayjc

Junior Member
I'm just a novice and need some ideas on where do I look to correct my trunk lid fit. The lid is square. The back panel is level and square. The lines all are resonable. But the lid is raised on the passenger side. The body is attached at the door jams but just sitting on the supports. There are no wheel wells. I wanted to make sure everything lined up before I started putting in the corners and wheel wells.

Please help!! I'm not sure where to go from here.

ps I'm an accountant just trying to have some fun with a project on my garage. And of course I want my "A" to look good when she's (Lois) finished!

Thanks for your help!!

john
 

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It looks to me that this might be a rumble seat rather than a trunk, noting that the hole for the handle is at the top rather than the bottom of the lid. Are the right and left rumble hinges the same measurement from where they attach to the lid to where the hinge point is? Are the mounting holes in body for the hinge points the same distance from the top edge of the body on both sides?
 
Ummm, based on what I am seeing, I think it would be most prudent to either get it on a jig that you know is level, --or a frame thyat you know is square & straight. I understand you are saying the wheel wells where they are not there but I would like to see pictures showing exactly what the subrails look like. I also think it would be smart for you to make a drawing and start making comparison measurements from side-to-side to see what is not in alignment. I have had several cars, most memorably a Coupe and a Roadster that have had rear alignment issues involving collision damage in their pasts. Both vehicles required installing on a jig to get them square again before the quarters could be fabricated/repaired.
 
John do you have the hinges on? Rights side is high and left side looks low. With the hinges on you may be able to adjust it so its sitting fairly square. I believe Brent is correct about the possibility of a former repair that you may be fighting. I have never fitted trunk lid hinges but I have down a rumble set and the setting it up can really test your metal (pun intended). Like Brent said get it sitting on something you know is square and level. then start to fret the fit. Is that tail piece with the inset plate holder aftermarket? Check it closely as thay are not what they could be.
 
The lid appears to be a trunk lid the was converted to a rumble and now I want to go back to a trunk. The hinge pins are in and I've measured from the firewall to the rear on both sides and they are even. How would I make a jig to verify it was square? One thing I didn't verify was that the height is even. I replace the subrails from the doors back and had to reattach the door posts. The doors close and fit good.

Again thanks for your time and suggestions
 
Farrel, hinted at this, but I want to make sure you understand. He said to adjust to fit. Are you aware that the deck lid hinges are easily adjustable because there is a machined slot in the hinge bar that makes this adjustment very easy? This slot could give you the UP or Down you need.
 
If you are confident the floor, saw horses, frame and sudrails are correct, it is also very possible the lid is tweaked. Unbolt the lid lay it on a KNOWN flat and level surface, if the right side is still up, it is the lid. If so do as Jim states above, get it as close as you can in the hinges and use a block of wood under the left side and use gentle even persuasion to get the right side lined up. You would be surprised at how many people have used the bock of wood method to correct issues.
 
If your floor is uneven, you can use a water level to make sure the frame sets level as a base to start from. I made my own water level by using a plastic quart jar, then melting 4 holes around the bottom to push four 10 foot lengths of clear tubing into.
 
From your pics it's clear the body is tweaked. As noted you need to be certain the body is sitting perfectly flat to start with. To me it's easiest to do it properly bolted to a TRUED frame. The frame does not need to be actually level but must be flat. That means if the front cross member is leaning at 5 degrees then the rear (as well as everything in between) must also be at exactly 5 degrees.

At that point you need to take a series of measurements (also previously noted). As Brent pointed out we can't see the sides of the body so we can't take it for granted both sides are at equal heights. If they are indeed equal then it appears that diagonal measurements will show the body is not square which is usually an easy fix. I've seen a situation like yours but significantly worse.

Get it bolted down properly on a STRAIGHT frame and go from there.
 
Thanks for all your help with my truck lid problem. I've had to order new mounting hinges so I can try some adjustments. I also placed the lid on a flat surface and there is a wabble to it so I'll try the mounting hinge adjustment and also try placing a block of wood and under the left and see if I can get it coaxed it into fitting.

That leads into my next dilemma. The inter fender wells. I have patch panels but what approach should I take. Should I try to cut the entire back out, mount the new panels and then, using the fender as a guide, install new fender mounting bolts? As you can see the top portion of the fender wells need some repair too.

Please share your experience, knowledge and advice once again to this novice.

Thanks in advance!!
john
 

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Personally, from someone that started with less, I would first straighten and level your frame. You need you running board bracket straightened. They should be level with the top of the frame and straight across. The holes should line up with the running boards.

Mount the body to the frame with the body block, put it down tight.

You will also need to put the running boards on the frame as that will dictate where the rear fenders need to be placed. You may want to consider replacing one fender mount stud at a time. I was not lucky enough to have fender studs in the right places and I had to guess. I should have had the body on the frame properly with running boards installed and used the fenders to place the studs. Instead I ended up adjusting the holes in the fenders some to correct for my placement errors.

With the body on a straight and level frame you now can draw a straight line down the middle and drop a plumb bob to check that your body is centered.

Go to my website if you need to learn more about getting your front fenders set up on the frame.
 
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