Wheel Studs

[Jim Parker Toronto]

I have to cut down some modern A studs to fit a steel drum. The new studs measure 0.500 om the shoulder. Does anyone know how long the shoulder should be for steel drums? Thanks in advance, Jim

 

[Jim Parker Toronto]

Thanks Vince, that's exactly what I needed.

 

[ctlikon0712]

On some of the Parts guy's websites like Snyders, they usually have a print detailing what to do if your installing them into iron or steel drums. Usually with the tooling thay want to sell you for the job. Good luck.

 

[darrylkmc]

While we are on the subject of Model A Wheel Studs, and Vince was kind enough to show a link to his page showing the different stud configurations, I would like to know if someone could clarify the Original Stamped Steel Drums Studs VS. Original Cast Iron Studs.

The way I read the Wheel Stud Chart there is one type of Front Stud (B-1107) and one type of Rear Stud (A-1118)

Does this mean that Ford sold/used the same stud(s) for the Stamped Steel and Original (Late 1931) Cast Iron Drums ?

Why is it that now places such as Snyder's say you need a longer stud for the New Cast Iron Drums?"
From Snyder's:
Note: Our bolts have longer shoulders for cast iron drums. The shoulder must be turned down for use with original stamped steel drums."

I am asking this because I need to replace Studs on an Original set of Cast Iron Rear Drums, in addition I have a set of Plasmeter Cast Iron Drums that need to be swaged to hubs.

Also, if I need to replace a stud on my Original Front Spoked Cast Drums It would use same stud as the Pressed Steel Hub/Drum?
The front Spoked Drums are one piece with no swaging involved.

Input would be appreciated, hope these questions aren't too confusing.

Darryl in Fairbanks

 

[Marco Tahtaras]

Why is it that now places such as Snyder's say you need a longer stud for the New Cast Iron Drums?"
From Snyder's:
Note: Our bolts have longer shoulders for cast iron drums. The shoulder must be turned down for use with original stamped steel drums."

I am asking this because I need to replace Studs on an Original set of Cast Iron Rear Drums, in addition I have a set of Plasmeter Cast Iron Drums that need to be swaged to hubs.

Also, if I need to replace a stud on my Original Front Spoked Cast Drums It would use same stud as the Pressed Steel Hub/Drum?
The front Spoked Drums are one piece with no swaging involved.

Darryl in Fairbanks

I believe that in part is the answer to your question. They don't need to be long enough to go through a separate hub and a THICKER than original steel drum. With that said they did not leave the studs loose to fall inside when the wheel is removed from a cast drum!

 

[darrylkmc]

Thanks Marco for your reply and I believe that you are correct. That said, I took another look at all my cast drums.

I think that the Front Spoke Hubs do in fact have the studs held in place by swaging, so the studs are likely the same as the previous Hub/Drum combination.

Also, I attached a photo of my Original Rear Drum which shows a thicker area outside the stud holes. I have not seen the other new style rear drums but my Plasmeter drums do not have this thicker band so I figure the the entire area of the face of the drum is thicker, thus requiring the longer stud.

I will have to do some measurements before I install any new studs on any of my drums to assure that I am using the correct length.

Darryl in Fairbanks +50, sure beats 50 below

 

[Barry B./ Ma.]

I brought my steel rear drums to an auto machie shop and they pressed my new studs in. I had the shoulders of the new studs cut back 1/16", removed the old studs by undercutting with a 5/8 hole saw in my drill press and held two studs to the hub with bolts and nuts to maintain the same location. I supplied the swage tool I received from the supplier of the studs but they couldn't use it as it wasn't hardened and just turned to mush when they pressed it down. They had their own hardened tool and all went well at a reasonable price of $5 per stud for pressing.