Wheel Studs to short

19ED30

19ED30

Senior Member
Did a search did not find what I was looking for ,
On my 32, ( I did not Restore / 1950 Modified Build ) I removed the hub caps and found that the studs are .150 thousand to short from even coming flush with lug nut , only .350 worth of threads used , so at least .400 to short of a stud ,
The wheels are 16x4.5 and 16x6 Gennie replacement wheels ,
Front hubs and brakes are 40 Ford ,
Rear hubs & rear is 32 Ford
Any one else run into this ,
Did fords with none wire wheels have a longer stud , or aftermarket steel wheels thicker?
 
Yes, I recently ran into the same situation when putting 16", '49 Mercury wheels w/tires on the front of an otherwise original '35 5w coupe. I just wanted to use these tires and wheels as a means of moving my car around and in/out of the garage as I work on it. All the lug nuts stopped short, maybe an 1/8", or a little over, from going all the way down on the studs. I just slightly snugged these lug nuts down against the wheels, because I did not want to bend or warp these wheels in any way.
 
Have the rear hubs had the 32 style nubs cut off? If not the 40 type wheels will not fit snug. Even when the nubs are removed, the studs are a bit shorter than ideal when using 40s steels. Fronts should be ok as they're 40s hubs with 40s steels - should be ok. If not you might need to investigate and maybe post some pics. The studs in a 40s hub never look over long.

Mart.
 
Here are a couple photos that show a difference in early Ford wheels.

These pictures show a difference right around each lug hole.

The first picture shows the flat area right around each lug hole which
I believe to be '40-'41 wheels, (not sure about '42).

The second picture shows the "volcano" of metal right around each
lug hole, which I believe all ('42 ?) '46 and newer wheels have.

The flat style lug hole could have used an 1/8" shorter stud.


Click on picture to Enlarge ;)
 

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I pulled wheel ,not 32 drums ,flat drum ,no mill marks ,40 or so stlye drums ,
The stud is only .750 long 3/4 of a inch ,
Have not pulled hub -drum , Are the studs a special stud that is needed ,or just a regular longer stud , I was reading to put the ealy studs in you need a 40 ton press or bigger ,
I have put studes in a big trucks with air hammer or 10ton press but 40 ton ?
 

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Ah I see it now. The studs are perfectly stock 40s style, as are the drums. Those are factory fitted and the correct length. The problem is, your wheels are not stock wheels. I don't quite know the best solution, but unless you want to switch to stock wheels, you will need to switch out the studs to longer ones.

Someone else may be able to recommend a longer stud, I can't.

You have to be aware you need to remove the studs carefully (lots of previous threads on this) and then probably drill and ream the holes to a specific size to accept the new studs. The advantage of this work will be that you can make the drums more easily removable similar to more modern designs.

I have the same problem myself on my roadster and would be interested to hear which studs are recommended.

Mart.
 
I removed one of the stud out , the shoulder size is .565
I'm thinking to take a modern stud ( ARP with .595 shoulder) cut it down on lathe for a press fit also cut the head with notch so it can be locked in so it does not turn ,
 
Dorman 610-109 1/2-20 x 1 5/8, knurl dia. .625, shoulder height .563 is what I have used on the hubs with the pressed in studs (F1 is what I current had on the car). Just pressed out the old one and pressed in the new ones. They can really pop when they break loose.
 
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You do know you are not supposed to just press them out, don't you? The studs are "swedged" in. The swedging needs to be removed or the heads drilled off and the studs pushed out the other way. This is what I was referring to before but didn't have time to give details. If you just push the studs out you may damage the holes. You can't turn the studs down because you need the rolled splines. It's best to carefully drill out the holes to the correct size to accept a replacement stud.

Mart.
 
If the formed swedging is not removed (cut) properly and completely, not only will you damage the holes when pressing the studs out, but you will MOST-LIKELY bend the flange on the hub, and quite possibly bend the center of the drum to a point of BOTH becoming "totally useless". You must understand what that swedging process involves. DD
 
V8COOPMAN said:
If the formed swedging is not removed (cut) properly and completely, not only will you damage the holes when pressing the studs out, but you will MOST-LIKELY bend the flange on the hub, and quite possibly bend the center of the drum to a point of BOTH becoming "totally useless". You must understand what that swedging process involves. DD
Click to expand...

I have always used later hubs, I currently have F1 hubs on my 33, they just push out like modern wheel studs. What years were they swedged and when did they change?
 
Whats the reason for the swedg??
Because there where no knurl on stud ,
Or just to hold drum & hub together.
 
trying to press the swedged stud without drilling the swedge off, will bend the hub. dont ask how i know this. use a small hole saw in a drill press to cut the swedge off before pressing
 
I just bought some studs from Rockauto. The studs for a 68 f100 cross reference to the dorman part number quoted above. I mention it because they were 39 cents each. That may not be unusual in the USA but a lot cheaper than I can source here in the UK even with the postage.

Mart.
 
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