Wheel stud replacement

J

Jimczeb

Junior Member
1. Can I replace a wheel stud with a modern spline type wheel stud?
2. can I drive the existing stud out with a hammer. Probably place something behind to provide support.
 
The studs are riveted into the drum and have a shoulder that prevents hammering / pushing them out. There is a tool to cutaway the shoulder.
 
Tools are available for both removal and swaging a new one. Check with model A parts sources for those. The swaging process requires a 50 ton press to re swage the new stud.
 
Bob Bidonde said:
The studs are riveted into the drum and have a shoulder that prevents hammering / pushing them out. There is a tool to cutaway the shoulder.
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Jim - To expand on Bob's reply a bit, if you attempt to either press or hammer out a wheel stud from the outside without removing the shoulder, you will likely warp the hub and render it useless. Model A studs are not like modern splined studs, which press into place without swedging.

You can set up a jig and drill out the head of the stud from inside of the drum (back of the hub), but unless you are centered exactly on the center of the stud you will enlarge the hole in the hub, also rendering the hub useless.
 
Your location might help solve your problem. It is not the kind of job just anyone can do without the proper tools and experience.
 
rotorwrench said:
Tools are available for both removal and swaging a new one. Check with model A parts sources for those. The swaging process requires a 50 ton press to re swage the new stud.
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I made a fixture for supporting the hub/drum assembly to remove the old studs and replace them by swagging new studs. I do use a hole drill to remove the swagged area of the old stud. Then the fixture and wheel/hub assembly is placed on my hydraulic press to push out the old studs. I then insert the new studs and again place the assembly in the press for swagging the new studs.
I designed a new swagging tool similar to the one shown in the KR Wilson Catalog. that tool is not a complete circle. If you will observe that page it shows that a large hammer was used for swagging the studs. The tool is not a complete circle like the ones that the vendors sell. My swagging tool is also hardened. After the initial swagging, I turn the tool 90 degrees and swage the stud again. My press is a 20 ton and I have replaced over 100 studs at this time and none have been loose. I'm sure that there will be a few replies to this post, but my method works. I am a retired Mechanical Engineer and also have access to my brothers machine shop and have made most of the tools available from the vendors.
 
Unless your hub is known to be true, make sure a check is done. I just did two new cast drums on hubs from a rear I have around. I think it is a bad repro hub. The taper doesn't appear to be concentric to the hub's bearing race.
D
 
I think there is a some of bad information here.
Jimczeb wants to replace one stud in a hub and drum assembly. If a hole saw is used he will destroy the drum for future swedging.
No mention has been made as if he is working on a steel drum or a cast iron drum. The stud bolt for a steel drum has a shorter shank than the stud bolt for a cast iron drum. To remove the inferior stud without destroying the hub and drum assembly, it must be drilled out precisely so the hub/drum is not destroyed. I would clamp the hub/drum on a milling table and drill it carefully in steps. I would use end mills for this procedure. I hope I did not offend anyone with my comments.
 
I don’t see how a light touch with a hole saw to cut away the swaging ruins the hub. Done right, none of the hub or drum is touched.
 
Bruce you may be right, but here is my experience. The hole in the drum is tapered. Wide at the top, narrow at the bottom. The hole saws that I am familiar with are straight. The drum thickness is maybe around 3/16” give or take. A very thin hole saw would cut maybe just right at the very top of the swedge, but as you go down you would most likely cut into the taper in the drum. Remember in this case we are replacing a stud in an existing drum/hub assembly.

The brand name of the most popular swedge cutter is made by Goodson tools. It has carbide teeth, great for removing studs, but will destroy the drum for future use. Their web site may have directions for its use and price.

By carefully drilling and then milling the stud from the center out, the stud can be removed. A drill doesn’t drill a round hole, while an end mill in a milling machine will cut a round hole if the hub/drum is mounted properly. Even then I normally use a pick to remove any excess stud material

I have found no matter how you remove a rear stud you will most likely find a deformed hole in the hub by a couple of thousands. This could happen during the original swedging of the stud or the removal. I have never figured this one out. There are ways to correct this after removal of the stud.

Also, I far as know no one has manufactured a rear stud properly. Check your studs, they seem to be double stamped. Us guys with bad eyes use our fingernail to feel the edge. The double stamp can be ground off or removed properly in a lathe.

Thanks Big Hammer for the undeserved compliment.
 
Another thing to understand when removing studs. When you cut the drum with a hole saw or the Goodson Stud Cutter the stud bolt of a properly swedge bolt will not fall out of the hub. The stud should have swelled enough, when originally swedged to the hub, and will requirer a slight press to remove it from the hub.
 
Fhane said:
Another thing to understand when removing studs. When you cut the drum with a hole saw or the Goodson Stud Cutter the stud bolt of a properly swedge bolt will not fall out of the hub. The stud should have swelled enough, when originally swedged to the hub, and will requirer a slight press to remove it from the hub.
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When I replaced a stud, it did require a push on the press.
 
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