Wheel Straps for Trailer Tie Down

C

Colonel

Senior Member
I have seen a couple Model A's come to shows with their tire/wheels straped to the tiedowns on the trailer as opposed to straps around the axles. These appear similar to those that come with car trailer rentals from U-Haul but fit the A wheels and tires. Does anybody use these on their A's, what is the experience and where can they be purchased?
 
When mine has been flatbedded, the tie down straps have been thru the wheels ala expensive imports, no damage. Four point tie down, not going anywhere.

Paul in CT
 
I have the over the wheel straps. They lock into tracks called "E Tracks". The tracks can be purchased at Tractor Supply chains or on line at a variety of web sites. Like the straps, the tracks are rated for 10,000 pounds. I use them on the front wheels only, because the ratchet handle will not swing through its full motion without hitting the fenders when installed on the back. I like them because I can put two of them on in less than five minutes with out rolling around under the back of the car trying to toss the strap and hook over the axle like on the other style.
 
I personally do not trust that setup. I have hauled a bunch of cars on trailers and twice I have had vehicles get loosened and move when the wheel tie downs worked loose. Even had one work loose that was also tied down with axle straps. I always tie down the frame or axles in addition to any wheel type tie downs.
 
I have always secured the vehicles I transport to the axle or frame.

My thinking is, a vehicles' wheels were not engineered to be fastening
points to prevent the weight of the vehicle shifting or moving,
particularly if the load shifts in a direction you don't intend suddenly ....

I realize they support the weight driving down the road,
but the stress placed by a strap intended to stop them from rolling
around on a trailer is not a consideration of the - tire - rim - wheel bearing
engineering design or intended purpose.

Wheel straps are used because they are quicker, in high volume hauling
time is money, every minute saved is money saved.

But then I drive down the road at 55 m.p.h.



Jim
 
Last edited:
I use 4 straps around the axles. Just seems to be a better setup to me-a guy that knows little about this subject but likes the straps.
 
I wish I had pics since some of the readers are not clear by your description. I've personally referred to them as "tire bonnets", and yes they are similar to what are found on rental car dollies that lift only one end of the car off the ground. That is because they do not allow the car move either fore or aft.

The great thing is they DO NOT touch the wheels or axles but compress the tires down onto the floor of the trailer. Mine are not designed for "E-Tracks" (which allow choice or placement) but have safety hooks on each end which attach to my carefully located recessed "D" rings. I use them on all four wheels and have done so for about 20-25k miles and never had a car move an inch. However my "D" rings are fastened at least partly to the framework of the trailer so there is no risk of the flooring breaking loose and letting the car loose if the trailer were to lay over on it's side.

For less important cars :), I also have axle straps and a pair of "D" rings both fore and aft so I can adjust for just about anything that needs to find a new home!
 
I have been hauling antique cars for 50 years. The tire "bra" that holds each wheel to the E track in the floor, is the best thing that has ever happened for safety and damage prevention. So what if one wheel strap works loose, you still have three other straps that will hold just fine. Strapping the front axle down against the back axle that has been strapped down is no better than using just one wheel strap. If either one of the front or the rear axle strap slips, and then the car is rolling on it's own. On long cross country trips, both the front and the rear have to be anchored down as the crown in the road will eventually bounce the cars loose slide sideways into the wall of the enclosed trailer. Our cars are finished too nice to wrap a strap around their axles. Using a tire bra over each tire will only soil a whitewall at the very most. Ramp trailers do a good job of keeping the cars in their ramps and away from the walls. Enclosed trailers usually have flat floors and that is where the cars can slide around if not properly anchored down both front and rear. After a while, one learns from their mistakes. Through the years, I have done a lot of learning....not intentionally.
 
Last edited:
Also when using axle straps or chains on newer cars you have to be carefull of brake lines that run along the axles. I've seen some get pinched off.
 
The best Model A trailer setup I ever saw had two latching motorcycle trailering wheel chocks bolted in place for the front wheels. Tie-down straps then went over the tires only, touching no metal.

The bottom rear part is a pivoting rocker. Flat to the floor to drive on, then flips up as shown, behind the tire when the wheel passes the pivot. The wheel is then secured from rolling back.

The latch pins on this one permit adjustment for differing tire sizes. Once set you never touch them again.
chock_2__B____.jpg
 
I have E track with wheel straps on both my trailers and never had any problems at all, I think there are the only way to go.
 
Last edited:
The problem with taking tie downs to the frame is that the car will still bounce on the springs and can often cause the tie down to loosen.
Axle is better but really, if you're having trouble with the over-wheel type you're doing something wrong. all the bubbas and yuppies that rent the uhauls can do it so.....

I like the idea of the motorcyle fixture though... hmmm.....
 
Mac`s tie downs in Sagle Idaho 800 666 1586 they make great tie downs and anything else you need to tie down your car
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top