Wheel run out
- Thread starter iceburg29
- Start date
H. L. Chauvin
Well-known member
For 85+ year old Model A Wire Wheels, not used for high speed racing, most recommend 1/8" run out sideways, i.e., wobble.
However, here is a major problem when verifying Model A wheel wobble.
Many never check to see that sometimes, "only" the circumference of the out-side rim is bent in or out; and furthermore, this type of wheel defect can be most difficult to see when the tire is mounted & inflated.
Many Model A wheels took a terrible beating by rough, gorilla mechanics and tire changers changing tires who used crow bars, large heavy hammers, blacksmith vices, and what not to change tires.
However, here is a major problem when verifying Model A wheel wobble.
Many never check to see that sometimes, "only" the circumference of the out-side rim is bent in or out; and furthermore, this type of wheel defect can be most difficult to see when the tire is mounted & inflated.
Many Model A wheels took a terrible beating by rough, gorilla mechanics and tire changers changing tires who used crow bars, large heavy hammers, blacksmith vices, and what not to change tires.
1930-Pickup
Well-known member
I've also been using "1/8 inch run out" as my standard during the last 1 1/2 year search for two straight rims. Still haven't found good ones. Aargh!
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
In one of the past threads on discussing this, I posted a copy of the Ford print showing his specification. (0.125")
Tinbasher
Well-known member
I've trued up rims before. What I do is mount the rim on the rear of the car. Then spin it and fine the low spot or where it's closest to the frame. Then I place a small hydraulic jack between the frame and the low spot and apply a little pressure. You have to go easy hear as you don't want to damage the rear axle bearings and such. See how it reacts. If you need a little more do it again. repeat until the rim is trued up. Not the best way but it works. I plan on making something like Bills Trueness Checker but will a frame work to mount a jack to it. Then I'll be able to straighten the rims more easily.
My thoughts. John Poole The Old Tinbasher.
My thoughts. John Poole The Old Tinbasher.
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Yes, you are correct, ...and that is how Ford specified it too. I stated that for someone interested in visually seeing what the print said, -and merely added the decimal in parenthesis as a second reference.
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H. L. Chauvin
Well-known member
Hi Ice,
FWIW:
1. In first taking into serious consideration that inflated rubber tires can flex slightly, if one's outer rims are bent in or out, false readings may be obtained.
2. One better way of checking Model A wheel lateral run out, (wobble), is to verify if wobbling is occurring "near" the "center" of the wheel and tire as opposed to what is happening on the possibly bent protruding outer rim which is, in many cases formerly damaged after 80+ years of service.
3. Rather than set up a fixed jig "only: on the most outer side of the rotating rim, set up a jig either:
A. On the metal surface of the rotating wheel, i.e., closer to the center of the tire recess, near where the spokes penetrate the wheel; and again, closer to the center of the wheel; or,
B. On the front or rear of the rotating rim; i.e., closer to the center of the rotating wheel between the inner and outer wheel perimeter rim where the tube fits in the wheel.
4. No doubt many Model A wheels were discarded simply because one found wheels with only the outer rim damaged and bent in or out more than 1/8" ..... however, if the center of the wheel would have been checked, these wheels would be within the 1/8" limits.
FWIW:
1. In first taking into serious consideration that inflated rubber tires can flex slightly, if one's outer rims are bent in or out, false readings may be obtained.
2. One better way of checking Model A wheel lateral run out, (wobble), is to verify if wobbling is occurring "near" the "center" of the wheel and tire as opposed to what is happening on the possibly bent protruding outer rim which is, in many cases formerly damaged after 80+ years of service.
3. Rather than set up a fixed jig "only: on the most outer side of the rotating rim, set up a jig either:
A. On the metal surface of the rotating wheel, i.e., closer to the center of the tire recess, near where the spokes penetrate the wheel; and again, closer to the center of the wheel; or,
B. On the front or rear of the rotating rim; i.e., closer to the center of the rotating wheel between the inner and outer wheel perimeter rim where the tube fits in the wheel.
4. No doubt many Model A wheels were discarded simply because one found wheels with only the outer rim damaged and bent in or out more than 1/8" ..... however, if the center of the wheel would have been checked, these wheels would be within the 1/8" limits.
Last edited:
BILL WILLIAMSON
Well-known member
I saw a pic of a hub & spindle that pops into your hitch receiver, for checking RUN OUT @ swap meets.
Bill Wobble
Bill Wobble