Wheel Restoration
- Thread starter Bob56
- Start date
petehoovie
Well-known member
After you get them blasted/cleaned check in the area for a reputable Powder Coater. Ask to see his RAL color chart. If you can't find a color on there you like it doesn't exist. My guy can order smaller quantities of powder for a custom job and it doesn't add much to the price. Powder is more durable than sprayed paint, covers every square inch of the wheel, if done right looks like hand rubbed lacquer. and in this area is cheaper than a body shop prep and spray job.
Bob56
Senior Member
My problem is: i have reproduction wheels on the car now and two are leaking at the rivets. One is much worse than the other 7-8 lbs. a day. Hubcaps are spinning and bending over the valve stems. I was told to find original wheels and caps, and have them restored. Hubcaps are not a problem getting done but can't find anybody for the wheels to take them apart and restore
19Fordy
Well-known member
I would not take the repro. "leaky" wheels apart if they are now "on center" and running true.
To stop the leaks use a very stiff wire wheel to clean up the rivets and surrounding area.
Then apply JB Weld or another good epoxy over the rivets and surrounding area.
or
If you have a TIG or MIG welder, weld the rivet head to the inside of the rim to seal the leak. Finish the weld nice and smooth so wheel can be balanced with minimum amount of weights.
To stop the leaks use a very stiff wire wheel to clean up the rivets and surrounding area.
Then apply JB Weld or another good epoxy over the rivets and surrounding area.
or
If you have a TIG or MIG welder, weld the rivet head to the inside of the rim to seal the leak. Finish the weld nice and smooth so wheel can be balanced with minimum amount of weights.
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47topless
Well-known member
Great advice here.
One thought: If your wheels accept tubes, that will solve the immediate problem of leakage.
I'm a fan of real paint, not powder coat. I used to do it all at home, have the big portable compressor ( think jack hammer) , and could buy silica sand rite out of the mine 30 miles away from me at 1 1/10 of the price of buying bags at the lumber yard. The old bag that
ran the office always argued that we don't sell by the pallet load, only big truck loads. I would show her the papers that showed I payed a deposit on their pallet, which I have in my truck, it was always a fight, which I always won, until I didn't.
Now, to buy sand at the lumber yard, and F around getting the compressor running that hasn't been run in years, and buy gas, its become the habit to hire it done.
Option 1, a local guy, a friend really, is so cheap I can't do myself.
Problem is, he blasts snow plows and dump truck boxes etc, so "light brown" is good enough, and it would seem he uses 3/4" rock for blast material, the stuff is beat to hell when I want to paint it.
Option 2 is a guy that does car parts. He cost more, but things come back spotless clean, and smooth enough to prime. absolutely not a brown speck anywhere, ready to prep for paint.
Years ago when I worked for company that had a truck fleet I used their powder coat company for my pickup wheels. My precious 89 dodge diesel never gets driven in salt, and the cheap powder coat lasted about 2 years. Now look like a rattle can job.
Now... I have my good blaster guy clean em up, and I paint with epoxy primer, and acrylic urethane paint, done on my wheel painting machine.
This was made for wheels, but I have since made many adaptors to do other parts. Even a rack to spin gas tanks for cleaning. It runs at 5 RPM, and you can practically pour the paint on, no skill required, it flows out perfect every time.
Sorry for another long late night rant...
ran the office always argued that we don't sell by the pallet load, only big truck loads. I would show her the papers that showed I payed a deposit on their pallet, which I have in my truck, it was always a fight, which I always won, until I didn't.
Now, to buy sand at the lumber yard, and F around getting the compressor running that hasn't been run in years, and buy gas, its become the habit to hire it done.
Option 1, a local guy, a friend really, is so cheap I can't do myself.
Problem is, he blasts snow plows and dump truck boxes etc, so "light brown" is good enough, and it would seem he uses 3/4" rock for blast material, the stuff is beat to hell when I want to paint it.
Option 2 is a guy that does car parts. He cost more, but things come back spotless clean, and smooth enough to prime. absolutely not a brown speck anywhere, ready to prep for paint.
Years ago when I worked for company that had a truck fleet I used their powder coat company for my pickup wheels. My precious 89 dodge diesel never gets driven in salt, and the cheap powder coat lasted about 2 years. Now look like a rattle can job.
Now... I have my good blaster guy clean em up, and I paint with epoxy primer, and acrylic urethane paint, done on my wheel painting machine.
This was made for wheels, but I have since made many adaptors to do other parts. Even a rack to spin gas tanks for cleaning. It runs at 5 RPM, and you can practically pour the paint on, no skill required, it flows out perfect every time.
Sorry for another long late night rant...
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petehoovie
Well-known member
Last edited:
jimvette59
Well-known member
Bob if the rivets are leaking they are working, meaning they are loose and they will eventually come apart. get rid of them and don't sell them to any body. I would call the manufacture and let them know your situation. Find a good set of stock wheels with little or no rust and have them media blasted and painted to your specifications. JMHO !!!!