Wheel Puller

pjdeb

pjdeb

Senior Member
About to take a look at rear brakes for the first time on my 1930 model A. What is the likelihood I will need a wheel puller? Anyone have pictures of the two type of hubs? Any comments on the economy wheel pullers sold by the vendors for about $35 versus the 100 model that fits both type of hubs?

Thanks in advance.
 
Likelihood is high !! I used the economy type which has a fitting which interfaces with the cut out around the hub. It worked fine but damaged (compressed) the last thread on each axle. I had to chase the threads afterward or the nut would not thread on. If I had put a small washer (or maybe a penny) between the puller bolt and end face of the axle the threads may not have been damaged. Hope all are healthy at the Villages.
 
Neither of the Low Cost Hub Pullers would fit the hubs on my !930 Model A Coupe. The throat is not deep enough to reach the slot.

Part number 28-20758-1 worked perfectly with some modification. The two half circle pieces were too thick to slide into the slots on the hubs.

A simple matter to reduce the thickness with an angle grinder. Please see the photos.

Personally, I will always use a tool designed for the job.

Enjoy the ride!
 

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I got a puller that allowed for the arms to be configured a bunch of different ways and had a lot of trouble as my hub was really stuck tight. The one on the other side came easier but hung up on the brake shoe for some reason. Lots of banging with a big hammer helps. Sometimes it just takes a lot of vibration to break the bond. My puller came from Federated Auto Parts. It should work on both types of hubs.
 

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My 3 jaw puller just couldn’t do it. I am able to borrow the clamshell type from either of two local friends and they do it with ease.
 
Tn Hammond’s puller is the way to go unless you have access to the Krw pullers. The 2 or 3 jaw pullers shown in the posts above Isago is way to ruin axles with all due respect. A protector nut that goes on the end of the axle helps to reduce potential damage to axles.
There are a number of period pullers that do the job well. Kr Wilson is best, the one shown by Hammond is good as well although admittedly I’m a Krw junkie so use them fairly exclusively. You don’t want to ruin good axles so be prudent and careful.
Larry Shepard
 
Pull the cotter pin(s), back the nut(s) off 1 turn, re-insert cotter pin(s), go for a short drive, then remove the hubs.

I use this type of puller:
 

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I used the cheap puller when I took my rear hubs off for the first time and they worked just fine. The trickiest part for me was that the hex head on the puller is 1-1/2", which was too big for any wrench that I had at the time. So I put a big wood-screw clamp on it and that gave me sufficient leverage to turn it.
 
I just did the rear brakes on my 30 Cabriolet.
I found a KRW puller at a swap meet several years back
and it worked fine.
I backed the brakes off all the way before using the tool.

Dick
 
I picked up a puller like the one Katy has for $3.00 at a garage sale thirty some years ago not knowing if I would ever need it but.... I have used it a lot.
 
I use a 3 jaw puller like Sunny showed. I back off the nut so it is flush with the end of the axle. Tighten up the puller wack it with a big hammer and it usually comes off. If not I tighten a little more and hit it again. When going back together probably 90-100 Ft/lbs is enough. Be sure the mating surfaces are clean and dry.
 
As to your question, "Am I likely to need a wheel puller?" I would say, yes. Even if the hub is not stuck, you're not likely to just pull it off by hand. If it is stuck, you will wish you had the best puller money can buy. Sometimes the hub is on so tight that you will scarcely believe the bang when it finally pops off. For that reason do not take the axle nut completely off.
 
I bought the hub puller designed and manufactured by Mitchell. Works on both styles of hubs, is very reasonably priced.
 
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I bought the $89 one the guy makes and sells on eBay, to remove the right drum after the left axle broke. ‘29 pickup.
I order it, waited for it and when it came as I was bolting it on the hub & drum fell off.
As to the discussion above , I have always torqued V8 and model A axle nuts to 100.
Same for the T.
But then I only started doing this stuff in ‘54.
 
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