Wheel nuts

W

warrene

Member
Ford Barn has posted a warning earlier, do not use repro' wheel nuts, I found it out the hard way last week. Left rear wheel fell off, all my repro' nuts gone, put it back on, a big mistake since the holes were worn, it fell off AGAIN as we neared home.
I've since bought a good wheel, also a good used hub/drum, that was a hundred bucks, also a dozen original Ford nuts on eBay, another 40 bucks.
My advice: Do NOT use these repro' nuts, they are not recessed to accommodate the nub on those studs, stud threads do no go all the way to the drum, your wheels will not be tight, even tho' your nuts seem tight.
I'm not the first one to have this happen, don't be the next, find and use only genuine Ford wheel nuts, toss those repro's in the junk.
Warrene
 
Thanks for the reminder to check before installing. Those lug nuts have been kicking around for many years.
 
Can someone post a picture please of the quality ones and the inferior ones side by side so we know how to distinguish the ones to avoid.
 
Can someone please explain what this means, i.e. how to tell the inferior nuts. I've driven my car about 500 miles with the nuts that came on it after I'd taken all the wheels off. The nuts that came on it hold fine. I just bought ten new nuts to dress it up a little better (haven't put them on yet). The new nuts are slightly shorter in overall length (maybe 1/16"). The angled potion that fits the wheel holes is slightly longer (maybe 1/32") and the unthreaded lip on the stud hole maybe 1/32" or 1/64" shorter. I can see no reason why they would not work, as they fit the bevel of the wheel and appear not to bottom on the hub.
 
johnbuckley said:
Can someone post a picture please of the quality ones and the inferior ones side by side so we know how to distinguish the ones to avoid.
Click to expand...

That would be nice.

I wish the Model A parts suppliers would have a picture showing the threaded end of the lug nuts, the insides.

Here is an illustration from The Model A Ford Garage showing the difference between GOOD lug nuts and the ones that should be tossed in the trash as warren stated that he ran into on his car.

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/dangerouslugnuts.htm
 
In my opinion, besides using the correct nut, the combination hand crank and wheel nut tool does not allow enough torque on the nuts. I carry a breaker bar, extension, and socket in my car to tighten (and untighten) the nuts. I have had wheels come off of two modern cars after new tires were put on because the nuts were not tightened correctly by the tire shop.
 
Jeff/Illinois said:
Chris what changed just curious?? Not trying to be a smart aleck just wondering?

And if I'm deciphering your avatar correctly happy birthday Sunday:) Aug. 15
Click to expand...

Jeff no problem. I would say this has been a problem all the way back until the 1960s with Sears and Montgomery Ward repro parts. My main point now is that the lug nuts from Snyders and Brattons are on many cars that I know about including mine with no issues. Mind you these are the cad/zinc ones not the chrome or stainless ones. They might have issues or not. I think this problem also has to do with incorrect lug studs too. There might be some really poor ones on the market from Mac's. The OP still hasn't said where he got his from and what finish they were.

Not my birthday lol but thanks anyway!
 
I haven't had any problems with my new lug nuts, but I did notice the studs when pressed into new cast iron drums, didn't have threads going all the way down to the drum. This could cause the nut running out of thread before tightening the wheel to the drum.
 
chrs1961815 said:
Keep in mind Vince's article is from 2002 - a lot of things have changed since then.
Click to expand...

Little which has happened since 2002 will ever change the fact that there are many of these defective nuts on cars and for sale on ebay and swap meets all over the world.

People are still re-selling these dangerous parts today and many still remain installed on cars. Which is one of many reasons to not buy parts from places such as Ebay or Swap meets

The damage is still being done today.

The good thing that has happened since 2002 is that hopefully some folks have read Vince's page and did destroy some of the bad parts.

The only way to get rid of these parts is for individuals to find these parts and destroy them.

Twenty years does not change these facts.

The purpose of Vince's article is to rid the world of these parts.

There is nothing to prevent a crook from selling his junk repro wheel nuts on Ebay and calling them New Old Stock or Genuine Ford parts.
 
Last edited:
chrs1961815 said:
Jeff no problem. I would say this has been a problem all the way back until the 1960s with Sears and Montgomery Ward repro parts. My main point now is that the lug nuts from Snyders and Brattons are on many cars that I know about including mine with no issues. Mind you these are the cad/zinc ones not the chrome or stainless ones. They might have issues or not. I think this problem also has to do with incorrect lug studs too. There might be some really poor ones on the market from Mac's. The OP still hasn't said where he got his from and what finish they were.

Not my birthday lol but thanks anyway!
Click to expand...

Gottcha!
 
Thanks guys for the info and "heads - up" on the bad nuts. I had replaced my old originals a few years back with the cad plated ones from Snyders. I went out and checked them today, looks A- OK , nice counterbore and deep cut thread. You can tell from the feel on the wrench that the nut is binding down on the wheel hub rather that bottoming on the stud shoulder.

Joe B
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top