Wheel Cylinder issues

It's pretty sad that businesses continue to sell these defective parts that are so critical to safe vehicle operation. Thousands of vehicles are routinely subject to factory safety recalls for matters that are comparatively trivial by comparison. Seems like there should be an agency that things like this could be reported to.
 
Randy in ca said:
It's pretty sad that businesses continue to sell these defective parts that are so critical to safe vehicle operation. Thousands of vehicles are routinely subject to factory safety recalls for matters that are comparatively trivial by comparison. Seems like there should be an agency that things like this could be reported to.
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That certainly would be nice. This problem started once a company decided to have the wheel cylinders reproduced who ever that was knowing it was going to be done off shore obviously did not spend any time on quality control.

Since I drive my Deuce roadster more than most 100,0000 miles plus so far in the past 50 years the safety aspects of this issue is a big deal to me. I knew going into this the off shore stuff may not be up to the task. But I decided to try a set of wheel cylinders hoping I could save some time and effort. That turned out to be a dumb idea. Lesson learned.
Ronnieroadster
 
Nick,
I had often wondered about his business, have not been there for many years (early 1970's). Good to know that it is still in operation.
Steve
 
I checked with NapaOnline . . . they did not have the 1 3/8" cups . . . but maybe your local Napa store does. I'm going to pickup a few sets (if possible)
 
Bored&Stroked said:
I checked with NapaOnline . . . they did not have the 1 3/8" cups . . . but maybe your local Napa store does. I'm going to pickup a few sets (if possible)
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Same here. I have a set of USA made cylinders on my car and one set in stock left. I'd like to have the parts on hand to rebuild these when the time comes.

Thanks for updates, Ronnie. I'm sure you'll get it sorted out.
 
Here's some more info about the wheel cylinders issues. I finally rebuilt the two original Wagner wheel cylinders I removed last month and put them back on my roadster. With the originals back on the car I decided to take the junk import cylinders completely apart to see if I can determine why they are so Fu--ed up.
As I wrote previously the cups being completely different than the original design is one issue and now I discovered another huge problem with the import crap the pucks inside these cylinders are steel not aluminum! The heavy weight of these pucks added to the additional friction of two similar metals riding along each other adds to the problem of the cylinders not retracting.

So that's the story this became a learning curve which ended up damaging the newly relined brake shoes which were mounted to the original Ford shoe frames.

Since my relined shoes were now junk I had to use a set of reproduction shoes I had in stock which I tried years ago and had issues with them as well. After a lot of measuring the repro stuff to the original shoes which turned into a lot of time with a welder and milling machine the repro shoes are working. Good thing I have been doing this back yard Hot Rod stuff for a long time we can usually fix anything. :rolleyes:
Ronnieroadster
 
Ronnie,

Thanks for the update and the scoop on what the deal is with these off shore wheel cylinders.

Bummer about the shoes.
 
Tim Ayers said:
Ronnie,

Thanks for the update and the scoop on what the deal is with these off shore wheel cylinders.

Bummer about the shoes.
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Your welcome Tim. The relined shoes were a couple hundred so no big loss I'm leaning towards doing the reline my self in the future might as well keep everything in house. ;)
 
I sleeved a set of wheel cylinders awhile back but never inquired of the customer what cups he was going to use.
Guess I should have but now I know..

When I put the current body on my hot rod about 20 years ago I replaced the old Lockheeds with a Wilwood kit. They don't look traditional but they keep right on working even when the disks are red hot.
 
Pete said:
I sleeved a set of wheel cylinders awhile back but never inquired of the customer what cups he was going to use.
Guess I should have but now I know..

When I put the current body on my hot rod about 20 years ago I replaced the old Lockheeds with a Wilwood kit. They don't look traditional but they keep right on working even when the disks are red hot.
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Hi Pete
Red hot man I would not do that to my front drums. :eek: Heck they were $25.00 for the pair when I put them on the roadster 50 years ago paid a lot of money for them but heck they were chromed and off an old Hot Rod the guy was putting disks on his Rod back then glad he did. :cool:
Ronnieroadster
 
Ronnieroadster said:
Hi Pete
Red hot man I would not do that to my front drums. :eek: Heck they were $25.00 for the pair when I put them on the roadster 50 years ago paid a lot of money for them but heck they were chromed and off an old Hot Rod the guy was putting disks on his Rod back then glad he did. :cool:
Ronnieroadster
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If you can find some Velvet Touch sintered bronze lining and put some scoops on the back plates, the old Lockheeds will work quite well for vintage airport racing or backwoods rallying.
 
Pete said:
If you can find some Velvet Touch sintered bronze lining and put some scoops on the back plates, the old Lockheeds will work quite well for vintage airport racing or backwoods rallying.
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Completely off topic, but interesting to note that Pete is Ford Barn MEMBER #2, obviously right behind Ryan as #1.

Coop

.
 
Pete said:
Wow, I didn't know that but you must remember, my computer has a crank on the side.
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I like that Pete, I thought you were describing my computer. It took me over a half hour to download a picture from my phone, resize it and post on a discussion here the other night. Frustrating some times.
 
Off topic, but when my old computer took a crap, I found a new Windows laptop on Amazon for $209. The only problem is that it runs Windows 11 (the latest version), which is just as inscrutable as it's makers.

The pricing on electronics these days is unbelievable.
 
Pete said:
Wow, I didn't know that but you must remember, my computer has a crank on the side.
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I chuckled thinking of Pete's computer hanging on the wall with the mouse dangling on the side.

When he turns it on, he cranks it a few times and says, "Operator, get me Fordbarn 6-5000."
 
Another F1 front cylinder question. Does anyone know if there is supposed to be an adapter between the brake line and the cylinder port? I bought new wheel cylinders and rubber lines from NAPA and the inverted flare fittings on the hoses don't seat into the ports on the cylinders. Currently have a crush washer between the hose flange and cylinder. They aren't going to stay but they stopped the leak.
 
I think to get the correct seal a simple copper washer is required. That's all I use with the front brake hoses. The copper would work similar to the crush washer but maybe a bit better.
Ronnieroadster
 
Thank you for the reply. It's been a couple of years since I ran those lines. Maybe I did use solid copper washers rather than copper crush washers. I hate getting old. I knew all this stuff several decades ago. Now, I've got to ask. Thank you again.
 
alanp561 said:
Another F1 front cylinder question. Does anyone know if there is supposed to be an adapter between the brake line and the cylinder port? I bought new wheel cylinders and rubber lines from NAPA and the inverted flare fittings on the hoses don't seat into the ports on the cylinders. Currently have a crush washer between the hose flange and cylinder. They aren't going to stay but they stopped the leak.
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A plain copper washer is correct (usually come with new wheel cylinders).

"Modern" copper washers are too hard and should be annealed before use.

Heat them up red hot and let them air cool or quench them; either way works.
 
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