Wheel caving in

120 foot pounds tops for the axle nut. Start at 100 then take to next slot should put you in that ball park. Then recheck a couple of times after it has been driven. Don't forget to replace the fiber washers under the axle washers (they keep the grease in!).
 
oh speaking of those fiber washers under the axle nuts, the books call for them on AA's also but i have yet to see one or any remnants of one behind the nuts... Is this a later add on that works or did they all just deteriorate or get taken off when the brakes were serviced? I would think there shouldnt be any grease or oil weeping out of the keyways....
 
redmodelt said:
120 foot pounds tops for the axle nut.
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So far in this thread we have 100 ft lbs, 120 ft lbs and 150 ft lbs for torqueing the axle nuts. And in other threads I have seen different numbers again. As I am about to do the axle nuts on my Model A, can someone please give me the correct figure? :)
 
Mad Mac said:
So far in this thread we have 100 ft lbs, 120 ft lbs and 150 ft lbs for torqueing the axle nuts. And in other threads I have seen different numbers again. As I am about to do the axle nuts on my Model A, can someone please give me the correct figure? :)
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Good 'n' tight works for me. To me it feels like about 100 ft lbs.:)
I've never measured it.
 
Les' book says 125 lbs. To me that means to run it up towards 125 while noting the location of the hole, make a command decision whether to be a little early or a little late to the target torque dependin' where the cotter pin will end up..
 
1931 flamingo said:
TIGHT! ! ! ! ! ! There were no torque specs in the 20's/30's, and everything seemed to "jell" just fine.
JMO
Paul in CT
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You are correct, Interesting to note that I have not seen a torque spec in the Service Bulletins either. But I figure that Les applied some logic and experience to his work. The actual requirement may be higher or lower, but there is an old machinist' axiom that says "Tolerances are meant to be used". Therefore, today, some type of number is necessary when the result is not obious. Many of you have years of experience, more then many others, but someone will use a 3/8 drive 8 inch ratchet and the next guy will use a 4 foot breaker bar, both duplicating the information shared here, and both with very different results.

A torque spec levels the playing field, allows a fitment tolerance that can be shared and puts the parts together in a duplicata-able fashion. I am sure that is why Les came up with it.

Back in the day in the Model A Service Garage, Mechanics apprenticed their trade and much knowledge was shared and commonality was the name of the game. No one was reaching for impact wrenches. A great deal of this tribal knowledge has been subsequently lost. Vehicles today need to be repaired to a standard, which is why we have torque specs for everything from wheel nuts to spark plugs.

I offer this in my opinion, which wont even get you a cup of coffee, 'cept at my house and you are welcome to that anytime.
 
You guys are all slipping. Nobody spotted the problem and it's staring you right in the face!

The problem as I see it is, the car has WHITEWALLS.

( Whitewall debate has been too quet lately) Had to point that out before Bill did!
 
While a foot pound number was not called out in the day, the length of the CORRECT wrench to do the job was by design made to give the correct amount of torque.
 
Jeff/Illinois said:
You guys are all slipping. Nobody spotted the problem and it's staring you right in the face!

The problem as I see it is, the car has WHITEWALLS.

( Whitewall debate has been too quet lately) Had to point that out before Bill did!
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Not MY Bill, he DON'T do thet!! Buster T.:cool:
(We ain't hurd whut the KROOKEDY problem was yet???)
 
Wouldn't putting too much torque on the axle nut cause the axle to stretch over time? And, wouldn't that show up as the need for shims on the taper to keep the drums from rubbing on the backing plate? And, if so, wouldn't that "stretching" also cause the axle to fail eventually?
 
P.S. said:
Wouldn't putting too much torque on the axle nut cause the axle to stretch over time? And, wouldn't that show up as the need for shims on the taper to keep the drums from rubbing on the backing plate? And, if so, wouldn't that "stretching" also cause the axle to fail eventually?
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No, the axle will not stretch because you are only making the tapered end wedge more tightly onto the inner cone of the hub. The force does not get applied to the entire length of the axle.
 
Doesn't common sense tell us that even 100 FT LBS of torque will cause the tapered fit to "grip" properly? Tapered fits are an amazing example of men's injenuity!! And remember, if you torque to 150 FT LBS, it most likely be harder to "POP" yo' drums off, next time.
Does anyone have scientific explanations dealing with tapered fits, at least in laymen's terms?
Bill W.
 
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