Wheel caving in

ped58

ped58

Senior Member
Hello, this is my first time here. I brought home a nice '29 Model A Tudor
yesterday and have been checking things out. While walking around the car it looks like the right rear wheel is caving in at the top. Is this OK or should this be fixed somehow. Thanks in advance.
 
Welcome to the barn. How about some pictures so we can figure this out. Probably need to find a good wheel. Phil
 
The term caving in, in regards to a wheel can't be good. Post pics, but sounds like another wheel may be in your future....
 
It sounds like a rust out of the rim bead flange, which are hollow on the '28-'29, 21 inch rims. It could blow out on you if the rust is causing it to appear to caving in.
 
I bought a 29 tudor to play with 52 years ago. Still have it. What A great ride. Welcome to the Barn. Check the build date stamped on the upper left firewall. Mine reads 5-15-29
 
It's hard to see but at the top the wheel is leaning inward.

Build date : 6/1/29
 

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Glad you joined. I have found a wealth of knowledge here. It's hard to see by the pics. is it the actual wheel itself? (referring to a bend) or leaning in as to rear suspenson problem?
 
The wheel is not bent, do you think it might be a bearing because if I push the wheel back and forth it seems to be loose and yes the wheel nuts are tight. I'll take the wheel off tomorrow to see whats going on.
 
The rear wheel bearing is located in the rear hub . When you get the rear brake drum and hub off be sure to check the area that the bearing rides on. It could be worn on the bottom so the bearing surface can be egg shape. You may need a puller to get the drum off. You will have to back off the brakes to remove the drum.
 
yea, deffinately do not drive it until you jack it up and pull it apart to see whats going on. there have been some horror stories of people on here with a loose fitting drum to axle wher eit can wallow it out enough to snap the end of the axle off....

could be bent rim but you say you feel play, not good haha.
 
Remove the wheel and check the axel nut torque, should be 150 ft pds. May need shims on the taper.
 
After hub removal inspect the axle well for possible cracks/breakage, even with a light and inspection tool inside the housing to axle. Mount the tire and wheel on a front and spin to see if it runs true up front. There should NOT be any gaulling on the underside of the axle housing bearing surface, although, that in itself will not cause a wheel to appear bent, etc. As noted in post #14 by Phil proper axle torque once keyway and key are inspected for fit and tightness should be 150 ft lb's.
Larry Shepard
 
dose your car have juice brakes? be carful with the axle threads they can be a bugger
I pulled them off a axle this summer had to completely go through the rear. I have juice brakes and set up my rear end with out any axle shims they are only a band-aid
 
Pull the hub. Don't tighten it first. Slugs is right: definitely don't drive it till you see what the insides look like: axle, bearings, seals, keyway and key.
 
should also say that if anything suspicious or loose is found, immediately check the drivers side too.
 
You would do well to obtain a copy of the Model*A Ford Mechanics Handbook. By Les Andrews.
Very detailed information in there.
 
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