What's wrong with this picture?

V8COOPMAN said:
This statement above is completely at odds with the statement (below in quotes) that you made in post #24 of the thread in the link below in Oct. of 2014...........

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152238&page=2

.......which states: "Pressure plate and clutch were all replaced with new from Fort Wayne Clutch. It, along with the trueness of the crank just put in (it with the flywheel had less than 1/1000th run out whereas the previous crank was 2/1000ths) totally solved my clutch chatter problem I've suffered with for a year and a half. That was sure nice. I sure hope any redoing of the engine doesn't undo that nicety."

I'm having a hard time understanding YOUR recollection of the clutch chatter. Back then you said the new clutch "totally solved my clutch chatter problem". Now, you state that this Ft. Wayne Clutch was bad from the start, 38K miles ago. Which is it? DD
Click to expand...

Both. See post #16 from this thread: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=168873

"To get rid of my clutch chatter I resurfaced and balanced the fly wheel, replaced the clutch with one from Fort Wayne Clutch and balanced that. I even replaced the crankshaft to get rid of 2 thousandths of an inch run out. Clutch was smoother than it has been for years . . . for about 100 miles, then slowly returned to its pre-morbid state with the same chatter as before."
 
I had the same issue one time after replacing with a new clutch. Later when removing the clutch again, I found the clutch disc was not uniform in thickness. I could see it with the naked eye. After replacing that disc, the clutch is now smooth.
 
Ft Wayne clutch generally puts correct marcel spring plates and friction discs on there. The thirds world stuff, I'm not so sure.
 
Still waiting on VanPelt to finish my transmission and send it back to me.

I have the new clutch in from Fort Wayne clutch ready to install.

I've decided that, since resurfacing the flywheel has not eliminated clutch chatter in the past, that I'm not going to do it this time nor replace the flywheel and just replace the clutch and hope for the best.

The short headed bolts that V8 Bob recommended have no safety wire holes and the heads are not for standard socket wrenches.



Plus, they have that shaft under the heads that I think wouldn't work without doing some drilling on the flywheel and/or crankshaft. I am not confident enough to try that so won't.

So, I'll just grind the stock bolt heads down a bit for when the new clutch wears down again its springs won't rub on them.
 
There should ne a non threaded part on the bolt lining up the pressureplate to the flywheel.
Just gently testfit them into the flywheel and see if they go in there nice ans smooth.
 
The unthreaded shank under the head shouldn't be a problem at all, no grinding needed. Aren't the heads 12-point that a socket fits on? Those look like excellent bolts. Torqued down properly, no safety wire is necessary.

I agree on the flywheel machining.
 
Ross F-1 said:
The unthreaded shank under the head shouldn't be a problem at all, no grinding needed. Aren't the heads 12-point that a socket fits on? Those look like excellent bolts. Torqued down properly, no safety wire is necessary.

I agree on the flywheel machining.
Click to expand...

I couldn't get any socket to fit on the bolt heads.
 
They should be 12-point but I have no idea whether they are for the old Unified fractional sizes or for Metric sizes. 8BA engines use no safety wire but they do use the big ring washer to protect the flywheel surfaces around the bolt holes and close off the locating pin holes.

I'd check the condition of both front engine mounts and transmission mount at the rear. If they get spongy, the engine/tran can move forward a good bit when you let out on the clutch. If that happens, the equalizer gets off square and the clutch control effort is changed somewhat.
 
Try again, a standard 12 point socket should fit. The slightest chamfer on the flywheel holes should alleviate any worries about bolt to flywheel interference. The bolts shouldn't need to be a great fit because the flywheel is dowelled to the crank.

I'd use them.

Mart.
 
Just my 2 cents but I think flywheel resurfacing and turning drums just gets over done because we all think it's arbitrary to a good job. Personally, if a flywheel still looks smooth, I just take a coarse 3 inch scotchbrite roloc on a die grinder and and scuff/clean it up. Same on brake drums if they are bad grooved and measure ok. Ah, but you say they need trued. Well, it you think it's true, do the cut, remove the drum from the lathe, put it back in and you will see it is now taking off one side again before it's "true"
 
Old Henry said:
Still waiting on VanPelt to finish my transmission and send it back to me.

I have the new clutch in from Fort Wayne clutch ready to install.

I've decided that, since resurfacing the flywheel has not eliminated clutch chatter in the past, that I'm not going to do it this time nor replace the flywheel and just replace the clutch and hope for the best.

The short headed bolts that V8 Bob recommended have no safety wire holes and the heads are not for standard socket wrenches.



Plus, they have that shaft under the heads that I think wouldn't work without doing some drilling on the flywheel and/or crankshaft. I am not confident enough to try that so won't.

So, I'll just grind the stock bolt heads down a bit for when the new clutch wears down again its springs won't rub on them.
Click to expand...


Lots of flywheel bolts don't have safety wire or locking washers. Just use loctite.
As I understand it, clutch chatter on an old Ford can come from lots of things since everything from the back tires to the fan is all one rigid unit. How about the chatter rods? Are they in place and proper?
 
willowbilly3 said:
Lots of flywheel bolts don't have safety wire or locking washers. Just use loctite.
As I understand it, clutch chatter on an old Ford can come from lots of things since everything from the back tires to the fan is all one rigid unit. How about the chatter rods? Are they in place and proper?
Click to expand...

No chatter rods on a 47.
 
That bolt on the right obviously has all sorts of metallic dingleberries on the threads. Pretty obvious that the hole it came out of is in some stage of "stripping" it's threads. Another sign is the obvious FLATS on the "major" peaks of the threads. The threads inside that hole are well on the way to stripping at a most-inopportune time. In other words, you REALLY might want to think seriously about spending the bucks and get a decent flywheel on that thing. DD

Flywheel%20Bolts_zpsey915qil.jpg
 
V8COOPMAN said:
That bolt on the right obviously has all sorts of metallic dingleberries on the threads. Pretty obvious that the hole it came out of is in some stage of "stripping" it's threads. Another sign is the obvious FLATS on the "major" peaks of the threads. The threads inside that hole are well on the way to stripping at a most-inopportune time. In other words, you REALLY might want to think seriously about spending the bucks and get a decent flywheel on that thing. DD

Flywheel%20Bolts_zpsey915qil.jpg
Click to expand...

These bolts are brand new bolts straight from the manufacturer. They've never been threaded into anything.
 
Old Henry said:
These bolts are brand new bolts straight from the manufacturer. They've never been threaded into anything.
Click to expand...

Well if so, that possibly bodes well for the condition of your flywheel's threaded holes, but that bolt on the right is NOT a virgin. Where did those bolts come from? DD
 
If I did nothing else to that flywheel, I would at least make sure it is mounting flat against the face of the crankshaft flange, and then check T.I.R. at the clutch face of the flywheel after it is bolted in place on the crankshaft. I would definitely want to know what was causing that chatter and rapid wear of the disc face before I put everything back in place.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top