What's wrong with my electrical system???

Texas Tom

Senior Member
I'm on a week-long club tour with my '36. Yesterday afternoon, while driving about 50 mph, it abruptly lost power, and then regained it, only to repeat the symptom several times in the next mile. Finally, the engine quit and I coasted to a stop on the side of the road. I could not restart it. It just turns over and turns over and turns over, but won't start.

I determined that there is no fuel delivery problem.

The coil was quite warm, but not too hot to handle. I replaced the coil with a new one. Still would not start.

I checked for spark, and wasn't getting any at the spark plug wire. So I assumed the distributor was faulty. My system is 12 volt and the distributor is electronic, with an alternator. I then replaced the distributor with a new one (identical to the one that was replaced). STILL no start.

So after replacing the coil and distributor with new components, I'm right where I was when I started.

The car had been running beautifully until it abruptly lost power.

If anybody has suggestions, I'm all ears. THANKS.
 
it is possible the ignition switch has gone bad or if your using a resistor in series with the coil it may have gone open circuit so you may have lost voltage to the distributor. I would also suggest you jumper the battery (Not the ground side) to the distributor connection. If the engine starts it will only stop if the jumper is removed. This is for testing only. Do not try to drive for miles with the jumper installed, the jumper will be bypassing the resistor. If you do not have the resistor in series with the distributor, I would suggest you just jumper the ignition switch, inside the car if the car runs you can drive, again the engine will only stop when the jumper is removed. In either case do not leave the jumper on with the car not running for more than about 30 Sec.
 
In addition to what others have posted, condenser may be faulty. If you haven't already done so, try replacing it.
 
Tom, I would the jumper cable trick, it seems that most people are overlooking the fact that you said electronic Ign. meaning no points or cond.& that you said that it is getting fuel. wire from batt. to coil bypasses Ign. switch
 
I have the same problem. If you have solved it could you please let me know. This has happened about 3 times so something is shorting out.
 
I had the same problem with 1938 Ford Deluxe Club Coupe, all stock 6 volt. With a friend helping and several hours of cleaning ground circuts we found the rivets on the fiber board for the resistor under the dash were loose! Removed the board, cleaned the connecting wire ends, reset the rivets with a punch on an anvil and reinstalled it with new screws to the under dash side of the firewall. No more problems for 6 years now.
Mark
 
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Do you have a spark when you remove a plug wire at about 1/4 away. do you have a good fuel flow. When you pump the gas pedal with the ign off, you can see fuel spray???
 
Here are a couple of wiring diagrams that might help.
 

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