What's the cure for a bad stop light switch?

700rpm

700rpm

Well-known member
I've had my 1929 repro switch apart twice in the last year, trying to keep it working. Today it quit again. When I take it apart I don't see anything that seems amiss, but it just doesn't do what it's supposed to do. This is particularly frustrating because it's so simple! Maybe the answer is to just give up on this one and try my luck with another repro. Or maybe somebody here has got through this and knows where the mystery problem lies.

Or, if someone has an extra original they'd sell me, let me know that too. That's what I have on my Tudor, and after 83 years it still works fine. :rolleyes:

Thanks.
 
I too have a similar problem. I just replaced a non-working 1930/31 brake light switch (repro) with another new repro. Still no brake lights. I took the old brake light switch apart and all seems good. The inside is clean and the wheel on the spring shaft rides up the copper slope to make the contacts touch. One of my wires to the brake light switch is live. I presume the other wire goes to the brake light and that the brake light socket is the ground. Should I now pull the sockets and sand touching areas? Any analysis and advice is appreciated.
 
BudP said:
I too have a similar problem. I just replaced a non-working 1930/31 brake light switch (repro) with another new repro. Still no brake lights. I took the old brake light switch apart and all seems good. The inside is clean and the wheel on the spring shaft rides up the copper slope to make the contacts touch. One of my wires to the brake light switch is live. I presume the other wire goes to the brake light and that the brake light socket is the ground. Should I now pull the sockets and sand touching areas? Any analysis and advice is appreciated.
Click to expand...

Lock the brake pedal down with a wood stick, then start at the brake switch and work back to the brake light to see where the power stops.
 
BudP said:
I too have a similar problem. I just replaced a non-working 1930/31 brake light switch (repro) with another new repro. Still no brake lights. I took the old brake light switch apart and all seems good. The inside is clean and the wheel on the spring shaft rides up the copper slope to make the contacts touch. One of my wires to the brake light switch is live. I presume the other wire goes to the brake light and that the brake light socket is the ground. Should I now pull the sockets and sand touching areas? Any analysis and advice is appreciated.
Click to expand...

hi bud,
use a testlight and see if you get power on the other side of the switch when depressing the brake pedal. if you do go to the end of the juice that would be the bulb and ck for power and ground there
mitch
 
The fiber washer that pushes the movable contact down will wear at the point where it contacts that arm, and not push it far enough to make good contact. The washer can be rotated but may be a temporary cure? You might be able to bend the arm enough to fix the problem???
 
Mitch//pa said:
hi bud,
use a testlight and see if you get power on the other side of the switch when depressing the brake pedal. if you do go to the end of the juice that would be the bulb and ck for power and ground there
mitch
Click to expand...
Yep,
How many times when both stoplites were out, I'd go for checkin' the switch, the wiring, or whatever other weird thing I could conjure up,:eek: just to find out both bulbs were OUT. One probably went out a month ago but nobody noticed 'til the last one went out! (Dum de Dum, Dum!) :D Bill W.
 
Im curious
this is a great question
it affects many people
its about stock model As
hes to the point
why then do some people downgrade the rating on this post?
curious minds wonder
tom
 
msmaron said:
2 choices, A&L and never have to worry again or an original!
Click to expand...

If I remember correctly A&L does not have a well made switch for the 28-29, they do have a quality switch for the 30-31, unless things have changed since I last checked.
 
I bought an A&L for my 1930....very well made and is supposedly the only repro made with a real bushing according to Tom Endy I would highly recommend it!
 
Just put an ohm meter on the switch and check when pushing the pedal. Usually these switches have the reverse problem. Brake light on all the time. When you tighten the wire on the side of the switch it sometimes moves the contact on an angle not allowing the points to open.
 
My repro sticks on and kills my battery. I need to dig out my original and see if it is functional.
 
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