Franchise_24
Well-known member
Is it just me? I think refusing to name the guy who did this shoddy work is just ......wrong.
Message him privately if you want to know.
Is it just me? I think refusing to name the guy who did this shoddy work is just ......wrong.
Because it is incredibly false!!!!
The point of this thread is, this builder didn't build the bottom end like it was designed to be. Nobody here has suggested the bearings should have been built like this. If you knew how modern bearings were made and their design you would know, this style of work will never survive in a Model A. I agree with Franchise_24, do you have some stake in this design? If you want to advance your education about bearings, just sit there and read what is posted.No time bombs here. beautiful forum for KNOWLEDGE. Not heresay. You folks sound like you have built a thousand engines, but want to apply 21st technology to to a hundred year old motor. don't fix it if it isn't broken. Thousands of motors on the road with purring motors.
May be just that, Franchise_24. Probably would be best to not make waves here or someone might name names.Are you the engine rebuilder or a relative? You just joined the barn (welcome) and you jumped right in this forum, so I am curious....
No time bombs here. beautiful forum for KNOWLEDGE. Not heresay. You folks sound like you have built a thousand engines, but want to apply 21st technology to to a hundred year old motor. don't fix it if it isn't broken. Thousands of motors on the road with purring motors.
It really is not a hard job to install the groove yourself.. use a babbit knife...I was taught how to do it in the navy. but it is the same with any babbit.. it cuts pretty easy so you might like to try it using some old rods or discarded block... I agree it does need grooves...
I would let the guy repour the babbit...then cut the grooves myself...be careful those knives are sharp.. if you will PM me I will loan you my knife, I still have it...looks like a tool that is used to checker gun stocks.
Joel[/QUOTE
I only overhaul engines with good original babbit. The composition of babbit that is used for different applications can contain lead and be softer such as saw mill babbit or babbit that is used in pillar bearings. If the babbit is like Ford used, it would be almost like cutting steel.
I agree that oil grooves are important and the wells at the sides do look puny. Another thought is, model T's didn't have oil grooves or dippers on the rod caps and they somehow survived. I think if the babbit had been of the correct composition and applied correctly it would have lasted longer. If it was mine, I would find somebody else to redo the babbit.
Actually Purdy, Ford babbitt is relatively soft. This is so that impurities can imbed in the babbitt and not damage the crank. The composition is 86% tin 7% copper and 6.5% antimony with .5% trace elements such as .35% lead and others. Any more lead than this will make babbitt hard and brittle, susceptible to to cracking from impact force such as piston force. This is why lead babbitt is used in pillow block bearings since rotational shafts with no impact force rides better and lead babbitt is has a lower COF (coefficient of friction).It really is not a hard job to install the groove yourself.. use a babbit knife...I was taught how to do it in the navy. but it is the same with any babbit.. it cuts pretty easy so you might like to try it using some old rods or discarded block... I agree it does need grooves...
I would let the guy repour the babbit...then cut the grooves myself...be careful those knives are sharp.. if you will PM me I will loan you my knife, I still have it...looks like a tool that is used to checker gun stocks.
Joel[/QUOTE
I only overhaul engines with good original babbit. The composition of babbit that is used for different applications can contain lead and be softer such as saw mill babbit or babbit that is used in pillar bearings. If the babbit is like Ford used, it would be almost like cutting steel.
I agree that oil grooves are important and the wells at the sides do look puny. Another thought is, model T's didn't have oil grooves or dippers on the rod caps and they somehow survived. I think if the babbit had been of the correct composition and applied correctly it would have lasted longer. If it was mine, I would find somebody else to redo the babbit.
Cutting the grooves and wells in Ford babbitt is pretty easy with the proper tools. I cut all mine while the line bore is still on the fresh block but, if I had to cut some in a block that was left without, I would use a babbitt scraper with the properly ground tip and the wells on the mill, which is how I do my caps. I believe Herm cuts his with a carbide cutter and a dremel or such. Either way is a very good way and much better than no grooves at all. The bearings in this thread are an example of lack of knowledge or just plain laziness because it takes about 10 minutes to cut the grooves and not much longer to cut the wells.
7000 miles on my motor, no oil grooves.
No time bombs here. beautiful forum for KNOWLEDGE. Not heresay. You folks sound like you have built a thousand engines, but want to apply 21st technology to to a hundred year old motor. don't fix it if it isn't broken. Thousands of motors on the road with purring motors.
Because it is incredibly false!!!!
Are you the engine rebuilder or a relative? You just joined the barn (welcome) and you jumped right in this forum, so I am curious....