Flathead
Well-known member
On the firewall under the hood passenger side just under the upper seam, first two digits are the year. Good luck with it, wish I still had mine.
What year and what is it worth?
- Thread starter MplsMike
- Start date
On the firewall under the hood passenger side just under the upper seam, first two digits are the year. Good luck with it, wish I still had mine.
tubman
Well-known member
The fact that you said it is in "far northwestern MN" is a big plus to me. From your user name, I thought it might be in the twin cities area and had been subjected to a lot of road salt. The truck's location is very good news when it comes to rust, especially since has been sitting up there for so long. The rodent problem wouldn't bother me much since it is a truck (not a car) and will probably needs to be completely disassembled and everything stripped and refinished anyway. To me this is looking better all the time.
Where did you say it was ?
Where did you say it was ?
Style of the bedside says 1948 to mid 1950. Orange speedometer needle says 49 to 50. At least in my area, the Atlanta built trucks dropped the chrome needle for 1949. So its a 1949 to mid 1950. The VIN tag located on the cowl, over the battery, and the data plate on the glove box door will give you it's personal information. Unfortunately, nothing in the VIN is really going to jump out and say "hey I was born on xx day in 1949" you'll have to google the production sequmce number to narrow it down if your locality actually cares...
Tinker
Well-known member
Being your the nephew. Maybe she would let it go and see it drive again, but this is an old story and things go to waste. Certainly wouldn't pay 5k, maybe 2k tops only if the engine isn't stuck and might run. You'll have 2k in brakes and others just to get it on the road.
It needs a ton of work and money to be realistic. Sometimes people that are emotional attached to things think it's the holy grail. It is not. Maybe make a deal with her that when you get it running you'll take her for a ride, that might loosen the price.
If you stand still and look around, you will find something better with less work and money. Sometimes it's okay to walk away.
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It needs a ton of work and money to be realistic. Sometimes people that are emotional attached to things think it's the holy grail. It is not. Maybe make a deal with her that when you get it running you'll take her for a ride, that might loosen the price.
If you stand still and look around, you will find something better with less work and money. Sometimes it's okay to walk away.
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Thanks again for all of the input! Good advice, Mart, on dealing with my cousin. The truck is on a farm about an hour northwest of Bemidji, MN. That makes it about a 4 1/2 hour drive for me from Minneapolis.
I hope I can convince her - I’ve been without an old pickup for a while. Maybe I will be back on this site looking for advice on how to resurrect it. In the meantime, I’m driving a ‘56 Parklane.
I hope I can convince her - I’ve been without an old pickup for a while. Maybe I will be back on this site looking for advice on how to resurrect it. In the meantime, I’m driving a ‘56 Parklane.
FortyNiner
Well-known member
The serial number for the 48-50 F1s should be in two places, on the glove box door and on the patent plate on the PS firewall in the engine bay. The first character of the serial number should be an 8 for this truck (the stainless grille trim was 48 only in the US). If the first character is a 9, it could be either a 49 or 50 - we'll worry about that if this is the case.
The typical rust issues for these years are near the front fender seam (as mentioned previously), the running boards, the mating surfaces of the running boards and fenders, and the bed to rear fender joint. The door bottoms, floors, and cab corners can be issues as well.
Trucks of this vintage and condition are routinely going for $4 to 5k - even in the Midwest. Unless this one is unusually rusted or damaged, I would expect it to be in this range. A reasonable family price, assuming there is a clean title and the truck is complete as it sits, is $3500.
The typical rust issues for these years are near the front fender seam (as mentioned previously), the running boards, the mating surfaces of the running boards and fenders, and the bed to rear fender joint. The door bottoms, floors, and cab corners can be issues as well.
Trucks of this vintage and condition are routinely going for $4 to 5k - even in the Midwest. Unless this one is unusually rusted or damaged, I would expect it to be in this range. A reasonable family price, assuming there is a clean title and the truck is complete as it sits, is $3500.
expavr
Well-known member
For a frame of reference I paid $2,500 for the Tonner 40 years ago in operating condition as shown. It was garaged in Eastern WA state and routinely serviced. The condition of the engine block could be a concern if the garage wasn't heated or the cooling system protected with anti-freeze.
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I saw a '55 F-100, auctioned at an estate sale a few months ago in Western Kentucky. I thought about bidding on it but didn't, especially after bidding started high and went to $4600, i think. It was all original, inn fair to good condition with little rust but had sat for about 30 yrs. The Y-block was not stuck. Nephew tried to start it and failed. So it may be similar to what you are looking at.
Al Hook
Al Hook