What weight oil in the engine

Check the survey. Somebody had posted a link to it...I simply use 10w-40w, any brand. It only stays in the engine for 5000 miles or one season. Then it goes into my Ford Expedition for a while before I take it recycling. TOM IS CORRECT. I MEAN 500 MILES.

Cam-2~20-50 was good racing oil. Always had better oil pressure with Cam-2 from Sears then with Casteroil GTX 20-50. But then again since Model 'A's have nearly no oil pressure to begin so with why try to push 'mud' through the pump and free fall back down?
It's flow baby! Some 26 pts a minute at 1300 rpm. [I can't remember if that crank shaft rpm or oil pump/distributer rpm]

That's really what cools the engine more then water in my honest ops.


skip.
 
Last edited:
I run 20-50 valvoline racing oil. It has more zinc than most oils I have 37000 miles and only had to take .006 from rear main @ 32000. Babbit bearings and counter balanced crank
 
I've been using diesel engine oil. It's super heavy duty and has many of the additives that have been removed from normal gas engine oil. This year, I am trying Mobil 1 5W40 A little thinner when cold to help with flow, then 40W when hot. So far so good. I do run a filter, don't drive the car more than 1000 / year so I only change it in the spring.
 
skip said:
Check the survey. Somebody had posted a link to it...I simply use 10w-40w, any brand. It only stays in the engine for 5000 miles or one season. Then it goes into my Ford Expedition for a while before I take it recycling.

skip.
Click to expand...

Skip, do you really go 5,000 miles on Model A oil? That's a long time for any engine, even if it has a filter.

I use Shell Rotella 15-40 the same as Doug.
 
tamagrouchy said:
I've been using diesel engine oil. It's super heavy duty and has many of the additives that have been removed from normal gas engine oil. This year, I am trying Mobil 1 5W40 A little thinner when cold to help with flow, then 40W when hot. So far so good. I do run a filter, don't drive the car more than 1000 / year so I only change it in the spring.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't it be better to change the oil in the fall, so the engine sets all winter with a coating of fresh clean oil? Plus any acids would be drained out so they won't be eating holes in the dipper tray or oil pan. Maybe that's no longer a problem, but I've seen both on used oil pans.
 
I tend to use my coupe all year and have 15-40 oil in it with very good results. I had 20-50 in it but I feel that's a little too thick in cold weather. With 15-40 it turns over easily, doesn't leak or burn and I change it when it starts to look dirty on the stick. I don't run a filter.
 
Jeff/Illinois said:
And the 2011 Mustangs I've been looking at as well as ALL of the 2011 Ford Motor Co. line-up,,,Ford recommends 10,000 mile oil change intervals!!

Man, it sure has come a long way---

I'm sure some cheap skate tried that back in 'the day' wonder how long those engines lasted on that nasty 1930 era oil?
Click to expand...

Hey, I had an uncle that tried that with every car he owned. He didn't believe in maintenance. He'd just drive until the oil light came on, then keep driving until he came to a place where he could buy another quart of oil to dump in. His daughter's husband is the same way. He just destroyed an engine a few weeks ago, now my cousin needs to find another car. I never could figure out why some people think an engine or car is cheaper than an oil change.
 
tom wesenberg said:
hey, i had an uncle that tried that with every car he owned. He didn't believe in maintenance. He'd just drive until the oil light came on, then keep driving until he came to a place where he could buy another quart of oil to dump in. His daughter's husband is the same way. He just destroyed an engine a few weeks ago, now my cousin needs to find another car. I never could figure out why some people think an engine or car is cheaper than an oil change.
Click to expand...


i hear ya, amen
 
Jeff/Illinois said:
Tom there is farmer close by that does this exact same thing. He always buys a new Mercury, runs it 60,000 miles to the end of the powertrain warranty with NO oil or filter change, then runs it back to the dealership and trades for a new one.

Everybody knows it so nobody around here will buy a car from him. The dealer just drives them to St. Louis to the big car auction and unloads it.

I'd sure hate to be the guy that bought one of those cars. And this guy is very very wealthy it's not like he can't afford an oil change. He will drive to Macomb (about 60 miles) if they are offering a free pork chop sandwich at some seed corn expo, he does this all the time!! It's just the idea of 'free'!!!!
Click to expand...


guess what there is no powertrain warranty without oil change receipts and documentation
 
Non detergent 30 weight (pre 1963 oil). Added a bottle of Zinc additive at the last change. Change every 6 months.
 
I, personally like Shell Rotella 15W-40, having a viscosity close to what Henry recommended of 15 when clod and 40 when warm. The original recommendation was for 20 weight in winter and 30 weight in summer.
The Shell Rotella is also heavy on the ZDDP additive which has been around since the mid 1930s and I feel has helped our engines last eighty years.
There is no one answer for BEST, just a lot of valuable opinions.
 
10,000 miles a season, Shell Rotella 15W-40, changed every 500 miles.
I've been hearing that the zinc is being removed or eliminated in even the "diesel" oils. But I cannot find anything definitive on this. Anyone?
 
HoarseWhisperer said:
10,000 miles a season, Shell Rotella 15W-40, changed every 500 miles.
I've been hearing that the zinc is being removed or eliminated in even the "diesel" oils. But I cannot find anything definitive on this. Anyone?
Click to expand...

zinc has been reduced in diesel oils and this fall is being reduced even more. i forgot where i read it but rotella 15/40 has the highest zinc levels compared to most of the other oils
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top