What transmission parts do I need?

What RonC said in #11. They are easy to rebuild IF necessary..just change the oil and replace with a good 600w and try it out. If it only has a true 5000 on it it should be good.
If not then you can do a bunch more!
Brian W.
 
Kevin in NJ said:
Well, I would think a true 5000-mile car should not need anything. Certainly spending any money on parts before you take it apart would be foolish.

First, take the cover off and look at what you have. The gears should not be polished smooth. From the factory, they would have parallel lines across the faces from the manufacturing process. The part of the gear where the sliding gears engage the other gears should have a slightly pointy and even face. The sliding shaft should not have a step on it that can catch your finger.

Look at the shifter forks for wear. Do the detents catch well when you move the shifter?

Look at the oil in the sun, does it have shiny spots from metal flakes?

If it does not look so bad and it shifts ok then put a new throwout bearing on and make sure you have the real correct oil in it. Do not try to make more work or spend more money then you really need to spend.

Les will have you put some oil on the spline shaft and see how fast the gears slide down. I measured the shaft and the gear mating surface and found I had about .001" wear and that failed his test, but is perfectly fine. If the spline shaft has a noticeable bump then it may be a bit too worn.

Some will have you add O-rings and seal bearings. The ****** will not leak more than it was designed to leak with the right oil. The shielded bearings will limit the amount of oil getting back to lubricate the U-joint. As for the roller bearings. I measured a pile of used ones and they were the same size and just a nice a surface as the new ones. I like to use original era Ford parts cause they seem to just work better.
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I also agree with Kevin. 5000 miles on the car and it should be like new inside.

With very few exceptions no reproduction parts are made as well and to the same specifications as the original. To rebuild something just because one wants to often leads to substandard operation and "food money" thrown away.

If you feel you absoululty must replace the insides, here is a good article;

Henrys-Transmission-Traps.pdf

and

Transmission-Assembly-List.pdf
 
I want to at least check the condition of the bearings. I got the car from my dad, who grew up with them and spent his whole life working on them. He told me that he thought a bearing was going bad in it. I drove it for a short distance when I got it, and I could tell right away that the throw out bearing was bad, but I didn't go far enough to see/feel anything else.
The thing is, I'm not sure that I trust the 5000 mile speedometer. Although the car is in great shape, I am finding some things with a lot of wear, and some that look brand new.
 
Check the wear on the pedals to determine if the mileage is correct.

The throw out bearing only turns when you push the clutch in if it's adjusted correctly.
Does it have an inch of freeplay and only make noise when you push the clutch pedal down?

If you take the ****** apart to check the bearings, I'd clean them in gas, blow them out with compressed air, then put a couple drops of light oil in them and see how they spin and feel.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Check the wear on the pedals to determine if the mileage is correct.

The throw out bearing only turns when you push the clutch in if it's adjusted correctly.
Does it have an inch of freeplay and only make noise when you push the clutch pedal down?

If you take the ****** apart to check the bearings, I'd clean them in gas, blow them out with compressed air, then put a couple drops of light oil in them and see how they spin and feel.
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On a car that's been sitting a LOOONG time, "sometimes" T.O. bearing will be noisy. Hold a little bit of pressure on it, to make it turn, & hold it awhile. This tends to WARM up the old grease inside it & "sometimes" it'll QUIET down.
Bill Lazy
 
If you only heard the throw out bearing, another option would be to remove the inspection cover, drill a small hole in the side of it and using a grease needle pump a few shots of new grease in, clean around the hole with solvent (careful not to get any in the bearing) and fill the hole with a dab of JD weld or RTV silicone. Could quite it right down and then you could drive it a bit and see if anything else is noisy , just an idea


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ALSO, serviceable T.O. bearings, along with many other sealed bearings, can be re-packed with a wheel bearing packer. That grease will be far superior to the original manufacturers' grease, which is usually like Vaseline! I think it's called PLANNED OBSELESCENCE--(SP?)
Bill Cheep
 
An original T/O bearing gets new grease when you pump some grease into the sleeve grease fitting.

If this is truly a 5000 mile part, then it should be original.

About 1985 I thought it would be a good idea to pump more grease into my front CV boots on my VW diesel Rabbit, so I used the hypodermic grease needle for grease to pump some in. This was a bad idea, because even though the hole it poked was little more than a pin hole, the boot tore open within 2 months, and I had to replace it.
 
37Benny said:
my 2 cents...If it ain't broke..don't fix it. I can't tell you how many times I have bought parts and didn't need them..that's one of the many reasons you have to walk sideways in my shop (ha,ha). Seems like you got a good project on your hands. Good Luck, Benny
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Some of us read your post as..

"If it ain't broke, fix it till it is.."
 
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