What to look for when purchsing a model A?

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oldcar

Junior Member
First off,hey everybody! Ok now the fun can start, I have sold my little toyota diesel (yay) and now have a decent sum of money to buy a model A (my dream car;)). But I would like to know what I should look for when I go to buy one. In other words,what is fixable and what is "not so fixable". If you know what I mean. Any "hunting" tips would be apprieciated!
Thanks
~~OC
 
Welcome to the wonderful world of Model A's.

If you have the money, I would suggest that after you decide what body style appeals to you, you find a good restored vehicle and buy it ready-to-go. It will be cheaper than restoring (and I mean REALLY restoring) a car. But if you're looking for a hobby project and want one to play with and do yourself, evaluate your personal skills and find one that is good where you aren't. By that I mean, for example, if you don't know body and fender and sheet metal welding, get one where the sheet metal is good. But if your buy-in budget is relatively conservative and you have a lot of skills and you want to spend the time learning, there are a lot of options out there.

When people ask me if Model A's are rare or hard to find, I always say no and explain that 5 million were made. That's a BIG number and there are still a lot of them around in all conditions.

Be very, very careful about eBay cars. If you can take an experienced Model A'er with you when you look at a car, you'll be better off. Find and rely on your local Model A club; people love to help.

Fair warning: like many hobbies, this one is addictive. Before you know it you may own two or three cars. Don't feel like your first one has to be your last and only.

Good luck, and let us know what you come up with.
 
Join your local Model A CLub. They know what is available and what vehicles that are not good. As them if you can sit in their Model As. That which tell you which you fit in and not.

don't buy a pile of parts. Buy a finished nice car. Brakes,tires, details are doable. A full resto as your first car usually results in tears.
Take your time. But when you are least ready, a Model a will jump on you. You will know if it is destined to be yours. Best wishes.
clem
 
I sure agree with those who have suggested you buy a car that has been "restored" and is driveable and has a set of brakes that will safely stop you. That is what I did twelve years ago. I joined a club and really got involved in the hobby. Lots of tours, a few shows and parades. Mainly a wonderful group of new friends who were more than happy to help me when I needed it. If you buy a frame and buckets of bolts and parts you might never get to the tours, shows, parades and fellowship part of the hobby.
 
Brakes and rusty fuel tanks are the economic achilles heals that will take a bigger bite out of your wallet then you might expect.

Many of us now have cast iron brake drums which are more reliable, fade-wise, then the original steel drums. Expect to spend over $1000 to do your own full brake job.

Enjoy !

They are great cars to own.
 
Check out the posting today titled "Introducing Myself" from krswen. Many of the answers to his questions will be relevent to your situation.

I highly recommend that you find a local Model A Club and talk to other A owners. When you find a car that interests you, have an experienced Model A owner come along to help evaluate it. This saved me from a couple of near disasters!

Good luck, and welcome to the hobby!
 
Look at and drive lots of Model A's before you jump on one so you have a feel for the car. Then once you have found one that you think you might want, bring along someone knowledgeable who will help check out the car. Joining a local club chapter will give you access to someone like that. There are abundant Model A's for sale that are less than optimal . Caveat Emptor. You are buying an 80 Y.O. used car. As suggested, asking around the club will get you lots of useful information and possibly a good lead on a car.

I like to crawl under the car. New paint, bondo and upholstery can make the top look pretty good, but the real car is usually evident underneath. Look for rusted out floor pans, really greasy parts behind the engine, dry joints where it should have been greased, bent brake rods, oil running down the rear backing plates or drums, rotten wood, rotten sheet metal and incorrect bolts. Check the front fenders along the bead for scabbed in re- bar, welding rod or heavy patches to cover up a cracked fender. It should start easily, run smoothly, strong and relatively quietly, steer easily, not pop out of 2nd gear on an up grade or 3rd on a down grade, not boil over on a hill and stop smoothly and in a straight line. When you stop at the end of the drive, look for the oil under the flywheel housing. More than a quarter coin sized puddle is too much. A good one will leave less than that.

Its worth the money to hire an experienced Model A mechanic to check it out. It could save you thousands of dollars and much heartbreak.
 
Hi, welcome! All of the advice above is gold. One quick thing that divides your hunt into two categories. Do you like the 28-29 body style, or is the 30-31 your style of preference. Some don't care. I'm really into the earlier body style right now, and my buddy is more interested in the later style. This will narrow your search a little to start with. Going along the lines of a sedan narrows it further. Already you are well on your way to knowing what you want. Good luck 'Clide'! :)
 
Until the slant windshield type in 1931, four door sedans were structurally wood bodies which require more caution. Two door sedans were steel structurally.
 
Another thought...Enjoy the fore play. What I mean is as with many larger purchases allot of the 'fun' is in the shopping. Spend and enjoy shopping and looking for the ideal Model Afor you. Once you buy it, that part of the 'fun' is gone (until you start looking for your second A).<p>

fwiw,jm
 
thanks everybody! I am in the Fredericksburg area of Va,for those of you who were wondering. I think I will take it slow and enjoy the search. Thanks
OC
 
Take your time, buy the best you can afford, take full advantage of your local clubs in your area, don't believe that every Model A owner is honest and drive one to see if you enjoy the experience. Many Model A's look good but run and perform poorly.
 
Still looking!!
Yep I'm still looking. Have found some very good ones but just a little above my budget. Meeting great people along the way which is a plus.
Sooner or later I'll find the one for me.
Enjoying the search!!
 
I bought one off ebay after auction ended, dealt directly with the seller, 75 miles from home so I was able to see it. It was restored in the late 80's w/ 615 miles, every thing done except carpets. Biggest thing it was running, registered and had a title, a lot less aggravation. Late 31 tudor (indented). I've added signals and fuel shutoff and a few other things, it's a driver and that's what I wanted. Looked at several before purchasing this one, they all needed thousands more plus initial investment to bring to this level and this way was a lot cheaper. Tool a trophy this past wed night and still grinning.

Having fun.
Paul in CT
 
Oldcar,

Welcome to the Model A world. You chose wisely.

I'm not as experienced as some of these other guys, but these are some of the "biggies" that come to my mind based on my own experience buying my roadster years ago. There were expensive surprises I didn't know enough to look for at the time. And, like a dummy, I didn't take an experienced Model A'er with me or read up ahead of time. I thought, "How hard could it be for an engineer to recognize a 'nice car' to buy when he sees one?!" And so began my education... (very humbling...)...


Some heavy-hitters - not always readily visible and usually costly to correct.

1. Frame condition: Cracked? Doublers/reinforcements welded into place anywhere? Bent or sagging? Heavily pitted and corroded?

2. Underside items already mentioned: I had nearly-seized brake cross-shaft bearings and bent and nearly-corroded-through brake rods.

3. Body and fender condition already mentioned.

4. Brakes: Pedal travel? Stopping distance? Pull a drum or two if seller allows - with your Model A guy looking over your shoulder. Pedal travel?

5. Correct body parts for the year and body type? My roadster had a couple of "incorrect" parts which became a real headache to correct.

6. Invisible engine condition?: Cracked block? (very difficult to detect unless blatantly obvious via leaks, etc.), Blown/leaking head gasket? (Compression test), Main and rod bearings? (noises when driving?), Rings and bores? (Compression test), Excessive valve noise?, Oily exhaust "smoke"?, Coolant out the exhaust pipe?, Pull the dip stick for kicks and see what condition the oil is in - correct level? - clear vs. dirty? 'Says a lot about the seller's attention to careful service.

7. Water pump leak?

8. Starter engage and disengage normally?

9. Type and condition of fan?: If original steel two-blade - needs replacing with new aluminum or other safe options.

10. Transmission and rear end: Leaks? Staying in gear as mentioned?, excessive gear noise- powered and coasting? Fluid levels? Fluid condition? Backlash when going from power to coast?

11. Wheels: Bent? Corroded-through or missing spokes? A couple of mildly-bent spokes could be easily straightened.

12. Grab front wheels at the tops and push/pull laterally back and forth: Loose/worn bearings, spindles, etc.?

13. Smooth or "chattery" clutch engagement on start-up?

14. Generator charging? All lights work? Horn work?

15. Hyd. shock absorbers: Present? Filled with fluid? Working?

16. Steering: Excessive backlash or "deadband" when reversing steering direction? Gear box oil level full? Pitman arm, drag link, tie rod ball looseness?


You may be able to negotiate selling price reduction against any "shortcomings" in the above areas or other "discoveries"! - OR the seller's refusal to let you inspect certain areas! - usually a bad sign...



And studying The Judging Standards and Les Andrews' books will be extremely helpful.

Earle
 
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