What should I pay for a Model T Chassis?

Brother A

Senior Member
I'm a Model A owner but after helping a friend with his Model T I think I'm infected. I'd love to build a Speedster. I found what looks like a good 1924 Model T chassis. It is very complete; 21" wheels, engine, ******, brake rods, fender supports, etc. The engine may have been rebuilt. It turns freely and the ****** seems to turn smoothly. I have no idea what this might be worth. Can you guys give me some "ballpark" guidance on that.
 
I agree with Paul. Generally speaking, sight unseen (no pics) $1500 is ballpark. Sounds quite complete but you must consider what's missing too. Radiator, coils, tires, ect. It all adds up. Fast. Does it or has it been run? Important! You can also check other sites classifieds and even e-bay to get a more precise range. A title would be a big + too.
 
Actually the coils, tires and radiator are there. I'm fairly certain that the radiator needs to be replaced and the tires for sure. The owner offered to let me try to get it started. It looks very good but I think the owner wants more than $2K. That might not be too far off based on what I've seen coil boxes go for.
 
Figure out what he wants before you get in too deep trying to run it. Don't forget, it's your time investment and his advantage if it does run. The price is creeping up. If he's over 2k on it he might have someone advising him or he's checked prices. The radiator and tires will run you $1500 alone.
 
Brother A,

Good thinking. Take a look at the T swap meet on this site.
There is a speedster for sale at $7000 OBO. It is at a point you could finish it off the way you like but it looks like it is on the road. If you do some math it begins to make sense. New tires$1000, wire wheels & hubs $1200, engine rebuild $2200, Alternator, distributor, intake, battery, rad, diff. gears, misc. $1500+. Add the $2000+ for the chassis you are looking at & you are ahead and getting a neat looking body, a whole lot of work and a title as a bonus. The real advantage is you will have this thing to drive the way you like it in the spring.

I freely admit I should have taken my own advice on this sort of thing more than once.
 
Thanks Jack. I missed that one. I know that I'm asking for a bigger bill but for me the build is an enormous part of the pleasure I'd get from a Speedster. I'd just like to build something unique and know what's in it has been done to the best on my abilities. I was very fortunate with my A to find a high quality restoration but trust me I've seen some horror stories. If I factor in a trip to MN and the transporter to get it back to CT, I'm probably in the same place anyway.
 
Just a few months ago I bought a 1920 Speedster that had been completely done in 1985, driven very little here in sunny Southern California (probably never seen a drop of rain), then parked indoors in 1995. It has a lot of goodies such as 5 T wire wheels, exterior oil line, Ricarda Waukesha head, Ruckstell 2-speed rear end, and a high dollar red paint job that was excellent throughout. Obviously, somebody had spent serious money building it. After negotiating from the $6,000 asking price down, I paid $5,250 for it, and had the car running fine after 2 days of tinkering.

Tires were dry rotted, times 5, so there went the first $700 as I also bought new tubes and rim bands. A new battery followed. Then the first test drive revealed a front end so worn that I wonder if anybody could have driven it even around the block. Just horrible. Leaking water pump, broken crank shaft pulley bolt, some electrical gremlins. A home-built exhaust system that was just ridiculous, cracked monocle windshield glass . . .

Then I bought various books on the subject and looked at all the photos at Northwest Speedsters. Afterward I knew I didn't like the style of my car, and the red color I hated from the moment I first saw it.

So I took it apart and started stripping . . . everything off. What a slave job. Discovered that the base plate was plywood and hated it. Hated its plain, rectangular shape as well. Disliked the laminated dash board. Disliked Phillips screws, modern carriage bolts, the galvanized fuel tank, the repro instrument bezel . . . you get the picture. Basically I started over from the base plate on, building it differently, still on a budget, but those things add up in the long run. My goal is to build it along the lines of the Yellow Peril, but aged, distressed, and in all black. I want it to look like it had been built in period. I will get close, but it won't be exactly the way I envision it.

If I were to do it again, I would start with aged hardwood planks to make up the floor. Since that's step 1, the foundation, everything that follows can't make the car right. So I understand that you would want to build it yourself. Get informed, and start with erasing the term plywood and Phillips screws out of your brain. Build it like it's 1927/'8/'9 or so. What we are doing is cheating, so let's cheat correctly.

Here is my personal favorite. You can see that it was period built, and not with parts from Rootlieb:

http://www.tomlaferriere.com/1921_ford_model_t_speedster.htm
 
Thanks Brother H. I'll have to pay Mr. LaFerriere a visit since he is so close by. My vision is not quite as period rustic but I like the look and definitely like the idea of a hardwood base. I'd like to build mine in the open wheel racer style. I'm not familiar with Yellow Peril. Can you point me to it? Thanks.

Steve
 
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