What part missing for '36 ignition switch?

36tudordeluxe

36tudordeluxe

Well-known member
Took steering column tube out of car & removed ignition switch hook up and think I may have lost a piece as I can't get both posts to get hot.
 

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Don, thanks for responding. The problem is, I think, is that I can't get the bottom left piece you refer to to pivot so that both posts get hot when I move the lever to "on." Or, am I assembling it wrong in that when I put it together the piece you refer to is not in contact with both posts?
 
Don, in this picture what is the "L" shaped opening in the back of the box for? I think you can see in the picture there are wear marks where the contact block pivots in the box.
 

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First you need to take 1000 grit paper and on a flat block sand the molded plastic block smooth to get rid of the wear marks in the plastic and brass contacts. Just slightly sand the contacts on the moving part, Slightly bend the contacts up to get a little spring pressure to the larger contact block. Make sure the toggle arm is in the moving contact bar when you assemble. G.M.
 
Here's another view of the switch components. The Switch lever pin goes thru the "L" shaped hole in the switch case an operates the bakelite lever.
 

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G.M. said:
First you need to take 1000 grit paper and on a flat block sand the molded plastic block smooth to get rid of the wear marks in the plastic and brass contacts. Just slightly sand the contacts on the moving part, Slightly bend the contacts up to get a little spring pressure to the larger contact block. Make sure the toggle arm is in the moving contact bar when you assemble. G.M.
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G.M.will do as you advise, thanks.
 
Don Rogers said:
Here's another view of the switch components. The Switch lever pin goes thru the "L" shaped hole in the switch case an operates the bakelite lever.
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Don, so then I don't have all the parts as you suggested earlier, as I don't have a "switch lever pin?" Are these pins being reproduced?
 
36tudordeluxe said:
Don, so then I don't have all the parts as you suggested earlier, as I don't have a "switch lever pin?" Are these pins being reproduced?
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The switch lever pin that Don mentioned is not part of that switch box. It is part of the toggle lever, pressed into the back of the lever, and actuates the moving contact.

The problem with both posts getting hot is most likely a product of high resistance at the contacts causing heat. The fix to reduce resistance/improve contact is covered by G.M.
 
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Before removing, reassembling & installing case on the steering shaft tube the ignition switch worked perfectly a few days ago. Now the switch arm doesn't pivot, which makes me think I've left out or lost a part. Does there look like there is anything missing other than the parts shown in above posts?
 

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DavidG said:
The pin cited by JM 35 Sedan is missing in your most recent photo.
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Thanks David, guess that explains why switch arm won't pivot to make contact. Do you know if these pins are being reproduced or what diameter material could be used to make my own?
 
Don Rogers said:
Here's the pin and where it goes in the operating mechanism.
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Don, that's the pin I'm missing; guess I'll have to find the case and internals to get the pin. Are the '35-'36 pins the only years I could use? Thanks for the help, Bob
 
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Jim Wilson said:
Bob, I have 3 of those pins. Send me a PM with your mailing address and I'll send one to you.

Jim Wilson
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That's one of the many good things we should all really appreciate about this website and also about many of the great folks who post here. Good for you Jim!
 
JM 35 Sedan said:
That's one of the many good things we should all really appreciate about this website and also about many of the great folks who post here. Good for you Jim!
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I'll second that! This isn't the first time a "Barner" has gotten me out of a blind alley. I really didn't have much hope of finding the "pin" without buying the entire steering shaft tube.
 
Also...use a decent original switch carefully polished up. Carpenter may still have some NOS parts, all parts were sold separately by Ford. I have heard disturbing reports including melting about the repros, which have a funny grainy plastic. Make sure the pivot for the brush is in good shape...it is just a punching into the container and can be enhanced a bit by some prodding if it seems sloppy.
 
Bruce Lancaster said:
Also...use a decent original switch carefully polished up. Carpenter may still have some NOS parts, all parts were sold separately by Ford. I have heard disturbing reports including melting about the repros, which have a funny grainy plastic. Make sure the pivot for the brush is in good shape...it is just a punching into the container and can be enhanced a bit by some prodding if it seems sloppy.
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Thanks Bruce, fortunately my switch is all original and will clean it up accordingly.
 
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