What next????

M

Mel Larsen

Member
Ok, so my new to me 29 A was hard to start and I couldn't seam to get it to idle and it wanted to do a lot of backfiring.
So as per Phil the A man, He said the best way to set the points was to remove the distributor and set the points with !he distributor on the bench, But the distributor did NOT want to come out. I back out the set screw on the block or head, but still could not get the distributor to come out. I saw a tool (44$) on the parts catalog, I don't buy tools I think I can make myself, BUT the threads in the top of the shaft is way unknown to me! So what is the best way to lift the distributor with out this crazy treaded tool.. My first thought was to drill the shaft and tread it to 3/8" fine thread 28 or what ever...I have way more time and machine tool than money, so would I be ok to drill and tap the shaft to something normal, to pull the distributor out?
 
If you can't remove the distributor, that is of course cause for concern, but I want to point out that you started off wanting to check the point gap. One thing has led to another and now you're considering re-tapping a perfectly good shaft. Perhaps you should consider whether you could in fact adjust the points with the distributor on the car. I hear it's possible.

Not trying to pick on you, I've seen this phenomenon in myself as well. It's easy to lose track of the original problem and become fixated on some secondary or tertiary issue that isn't actually related to why the car doesn't work.
 
Notice that Paul says to remove set screw on side of head COMPLETLY.

If original style screw is used and screw is only backed off part way the distributor may not come off because screw will hang up in the slot on distributor shaft.
 
Remove the side screw all the way, spray PB blaster at the base of distributer, rotate distributer left and right while pulling out of engine.
 
AKJurnee said:
Remove the side screw all the way, spray PB blaster at the base of distributer, rotate distributer left and right while pulling out of engine.
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You cannot rotate the distributor left nor right until the distributor is high enough that the location pin is out from the hole in the top of the head.
 
Benson said:
Notice that Paul says to remove set screw on side of head COMPLETLY.

If original style screw is used and screw is only backed off part way the distributor may not come off because screw will hang up in the slot on distributor shaft.
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Correct! When doing those videos, I always have to think of all the variables and come up with ways to accommodate the plethora of possibilities the viewer may be facing. Removing the keeper screw/nut completely saved from having to explain the differences and the early types etc. and make it confusing. Most people question why I say to do this or that when it isn't needed on late 29 thru end of production, only early, blah blah. But you get it. Thank you!
 
Mel Larsen said:
So as per Phil the A man, He said the best way to set the points was to remove the distributor and set the points with !he distributor on the bench.
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That's one way to do it, but I wouldn't agree that it's "the best way".
 
Mel - The armored cable puts a lot of side load on the distributor when installed, and can make removing the distributor very difficult. Be sure you have removed the clamp that holds that cable to the #8 head stud, then you can push on the armored cable to remove that side load while you lift the distributor.

When you reinstall the distributor be sure you have cleaned the socket in the head thoroughly to remove rust and have cleaned the bottom of the distributor. I put a coat of copper anti-seize on the bottom of the distributor before insertion into the head. Don’t use grease, that contact is the electrical connection between the distributor housing and ground.

BTW, when it is convenient I like to remove the distributor to adjust the points. It’s a good opportunity to look over the distributor, wipe things down, etc. But it’s perfectly ok to adjust points in the car. Check your timing after adjusting the points.
 
JayJay said:
Mel - The armored cable puts a lot of side load on the distributor when installed, and can make removing the distributor very difficult. Be sure you have removed the clamp that holds that cable to the #8 head stud, then you can push on the armored cable to remove that side load while you lift the distributor.

When you reinstall the distributor be sure you have cleaned the socket in the head thoroughly to remove rust and have cleaned the bottom of the distributor. I put a coat of copper anti-seize on the bottom of the distributor before insertion into the head. Don’t use grease, that contact is the electrical connection between the distributor housing and ground.

BTW, when it is convenient I like to remove the distributor to adjust the points. It’s a good opportunity to look over the distributor, wipe things down, etc. But it’s perfectly ok to adjust points in the car. Check your timing after adjusting the points.
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Additional info:

Removing or loosening #8 stud nut can cause coolant to leak into oil pan.

Before loosening stud it is good idea to drain 3 gallons of coolant so that the level is low enough to prevent coolant damage if there is a leak that starts after loosening #8 head nut.
 
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All suggestions are valid, but really, it is not hard to change points and condenser with distributor on the engine. That said, keep repeating application of penetrating oil, and just replace points, and eventually distributor should free up, in the mean time you are enjoying the car. KISS!
 
P.S. said:
Correct! When doing those videos, I always have to think of all the variables and come up with ways to accommodate the plethora of possibilities the viewer may be facing. Removing the keeper screw/nut completely saved from having to explain the differences and the early types etc. and make it confusing. Most people question why I say to do this or that when it isn't needed on late 29 thru end of production, only early, blah blah. But you get it. Thank you!
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Paul,

In the past I think I remember you mentioned using an Oscilloscope on ignition problems.

Have you ever done a video on using an Oscilloscope on Model A?

Would most likely be on Low voltage side?

Is a scope of any value in troubleshooting?
 
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Mel, are you a member of a local Model-A Ford club chapter, or perhaps another old car club?
 
Benson said:
Paul,

In the past I think I remember you mentioned using an Oscilloscope on ignition problems.

Have you ever done a video on using an Oscilloscope on Model A?

Would most likely be on Low voltage side?

I have several Tektronix 2235, 453, 465 and 475 from the 90's when the company merged 7 or 8 computer Maintenance companies. Every time they inherited a bunch of test equipment.

Is a scope of any value in troubleshooting?
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An oscilloscope would be useful in certain circumstances, for example if you were implementing non-stock ignition components and wanted to tune your condenser’s capacitance to your specific circuit.

But even among hobbyists, so few people will have access to a scope that it’s not really a good fit for his channel. It would be a good fit for my channel but I don’t have one. [emoji16]
 
Ok, so after a lot of tapping and prying on the distributor and squirting some penetrating oil back under the distributor, I got it loose and out. Now while out, I have ordered new bushings, and drive shafts and a modern points set up. I have some anti seize compound and will coat the Distributor housing before putting it back in the head.
 
Benson said:
Paul,

In the past I think I remember you mentioned using an Oscilloscope on ignition problems.

Have you ever done a video on using an Oscilloscope on Model A?

Would most likely be on Low voltage side?

Is a scope of any value in troubleshooting?
Click to expand...

I haven't shown anything like that in a video, for troubleshooting purposes. I did use a scope to show the bounce in a Model A electrical system when I was helping Michael Eisenbise write that excellent article he did for The Restorer magazine (the one you receive as a MAFCA member) showing different alternators vs. stock generator in a Model A causing the headlights to oscillate in brightness, mostly at idle speed. I used my regular bench scope and was able to visually see the noise on the DC wires from the different alternators I used for the experiment.
 
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