What is NOT going on?

Missouri A

Missouri A

Member
OK gentlemen
Ist all back together. Wont start. Turns over very well. Timing is dead on. New points, condenser, and coil. Holding high tension wire 1/4" from head bolt I get three or four real blue sparks about 3/8" long, then nothing.
What am I missing?????
 
If you kept the old coil and condenser, and the engine ran with them, that would be my first thought. I have seen a bad coil, or condenser act like what you are explaining.
 
OK Installed old condenser. Fired right up. Ran for around 5 min. then died. Ran long enough to set carburetor. Ran real smooth.
Pulled high tension wire and did check again. Blue spark but not all the time . Intermittent
 
I have found a couple of times the wire in the shielded cable will short out
and run for a while, until it vibrates and touches the side of the cable. just a thought.
Bill
 
Did you paint the distributor nice and shiney black and now the paint on the head or distributor is preventing a good ground?

Is the wire that connects the top plate in the distributor to the bottom plate bottoming out?

Is the reproduction condensor grounding out somehow when installed? it may be slightly a different size?

Is your fuel bowl running dry due to some clogged debris in the needle and seat, or fuel line preventing the carburetor bowl from filling up faster than the engine uses the fuel?
 
Is the ignition switch in good order and not too worn? Maybe like post #6 mentioned. it could be vibrations that cause the break in the circuit.
Check temperature of coil to see it's getting too hot also as post #5 has mentioned that the coil may be getting too hot and not firing properly.
 
As soon as the engine quits, have your trusty test light ready and start working back from the points for voltage. 6v with moveable point arm open, no voltage when closed.
Work back thru the primary cable, they tend to ground from being screwed in too far or the inside insulation being frayed allowing wire to ground itself. Distributor bad may not have a good ground. Primary plate wire may be defective and grounding.
Ignition switch could have a problem going open or possibly grounding against fuel tank.
Coil could be defective.
Terminal box connections could have a problem.
A lot of places to look, but, it goes fast.
 
What part of Missouri are you in? I'm around the st Louis area .

Sounds like you may have a poor or intermittent connection in you primary ignition circuit. From the terminal box to ignition switch and distributor. Lets troubleshoot instead of shotgun. Do you have-know how to use a volt/ohm meter?

If so check voltage at battery, then both studs at terminal box. Take Note of those readings and then turn on ignition and with the points open and not. Touching check the voltage at the moveable arm ? It should be within 4-5 tenth a of a volt of the battery voltage .
If lower you have a poor contact somewhere

Also might suggest to disconnect the fuel line and make sure you have good fuel flow to the carb. You can also pull the drain plug in the bottom of the carb to ensure flow in to it as well if you wish. easy enough to do.

It's a matter of troubleshooting to find the issue
Happy to help , drop an update with you location
Service and troubleshooting are my specialty
Larry Shepard
 
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Thanks to all that replied. Started checking from Batt. all through the system. Found wire to ign. switch loose. POP out cable worn . Made a new popout cable, fire right up. Ran around 15 min. then "I"' shut it off. Started right back up. Shut it off again, waited around 15 min. Started right up again.
I think I have got a "RUNNER"'

I'm in Springfield,

Thanks again to all. This forum is the BEST

Stan
 
One more question. I installed a new coil. The old one had only one mark on it, MADE IN USA. The new one has + - post. Which way should it he installed? Wire from starter to + or-?
Just went out and started it again after an hour of setting and fired right up. I like it ! ! ! !
 
The + goes to the switch and then to the points because you want the same side going to ground as what the battery has for ground. Model A's have + ground on the battery so the coil also uses + ground.
 
Great,

There are some Model A guys down that way... not sure how active they are anymore.
there's a fellow who sells some Model A Parts there, Rick Smith @ Battlefield Antique. He advertising in Hemmings, etc.

Get a digital multimeter and learn a little how to use it. It will be the best tool in your toolbox once you get in the groove how to use it.

Larry Shepard
 
1931 flamingo said:
Would not an analog meter be better??
Paul in CT
Click to expand...

It sure would be for me. :)

Two days ago I was helping my neighbor get his industrial lawn more working. He was working on the drive chain, and after that he lost all power. He had a Fluke digital meter, and the voltage readings were all over the place. I quit using the meter and started using a jumper wire to bypass parts. Anyway after studying the schematic I traced it down to the neutral safety switch came out of adjustment when he lifted the deck for the chain work.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
It sure would be for me. :)

Two days ago I was helping my neighbor get his industrial lawn more working. He was working on the drive chain, and after that he lost all power. He had a Fluke digital meter, and the voltage readings were all over the place. I quit using the meter and started using a jumper wire to bypass parts. Anyway after studying the schematic I traced it down to the neutral safety switch came out of adjustment when he lifted the deck for the chain work.
Click to expand...

A fluke meter can't be beat however, there is a place for an analog meter and that's when you are measuring 'noisy' dc. An analog meter will smooth out the fluctuations with the dampening effect of the needle. That can also be a bad thing too....it depends on what you are doing. A model A is definitely 'noisy' power so, yes, often it is easier with an analog meter.
 
A digital works great and honestly for ametures it is easier to check voltage drops with the digital than analog. Although, as mentioned the Model A generator can be very noisy so it can drive some digitals crazy if you ar trying to measure the voltage output if the generator or starter when it is charging. If you go up to the terminal box it will usually be ok, but depends on the meter's tolerance.

They work great for continuity as well . I was an electronic tech for 22 years and have always appreciated my early electronic training. It has been most useful .

Get what type you like, I have both but use the digitals most if the time. If you don't have it know how to use one I encourage you to do so,
You will never regret it . Don't know what I'd do without it.
I gave a seminar at the 2014 MARC membership about using the meter and quick overview if simple tests . I thought it was pretty well received and all who attended left with a free HB meter.

Give it a try sometime and learn to do some simple checks
Larry Shepard

Larry
 
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