What happened

1928Pickuppain

1928Pickuppain

Senior Member
So I have been driveing my truck all around the town the last couple of days with no problems. When i first got it running it would over heat; then i draned it flushed it put CLR In there for a few hours and then draned and refilled put new fan belt on and no more over heating ran like a champ.
today was my first time taking it to work about 45 miles it started getting hot in town and i figured it was just becouse of all the red lights and it was already a prity hot morining. then i get on the high way and it starts boiling out the cap and spewing on the ground. I let it cool and then got to work were it over heated again. what do you think Happened?:confused:
 
One thing that will cause this problem is a blown head gasket; check radiator for bubbles in fluid while running engine.

Ron
 
You may be circulating rust and debris that have come loose from water passages as you drive. The flush may have loosened some/all the rust at the bottom of the block that was stuck for years. These can clog the radiator tubes and cause over heating. I had this happen to me after I flushed a system in my brothers Galaxie. We loosened all the garbage and it continued to come loose and repeatedly clog the radiator. We installed a Gano Filter and it cured the problem; after about 6 months the filter was not trapping any more debris so we took it out.

Just an idea,

Joe

http://autocoolantfilter.com/
 
Your air mixture on your carb. might be open too much. Turn your choke rod only 1/4 of a turn. The recommended setting should only be a 1/4 turn counterclockwise. I had the same problem and was all set to order a new radiator. The guy at P.V. Antiques told me he would love to sell me one but to try that first. That's all it was for me.
 
Could be several things to look at.. How old is this engine ?? Check for bad head gasket[ pressure/bubbles in coolant and compression check].. Check for plugged radiator.. Where have you been running the spark lever??
 
It has brand new fan belt super tight had to remove gen pully and still took two of us to get it on. the motor is a 1928 origonal never rebuilt and never taken off the road eather only 1 real owner before me bought it new in 28 drove it till he died but comprestions good and no bubbles or oil in radator so head gasket is still good.
 
Sounds like your fan belt would be OK if you had a Altenator; Napa has various lengths of 5/8" belts.
On my driving A I use the Napa belt that has cuts on the inside; don't have to over-tighten which puts a lot of strain on the waterpump and generator.

Ron
 
1928Pickuppain said:
It has brand new fan belt super tight had to remove gen pully and still took two of us to get it on. the motor is a 1928 origonal never rebuilt and never taken off the road eather only 1 real owner before me bought it new in 28 drove it till he died but comprestions good and no bubbles or oil in radator so head gasket is still good.
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Sometimes a head gasket can fool you. Try testing it with a load on the engine using the following method:

First, remove the radiator cap and make sure the water level is high enough for you to see it. Then remove the fan belt. Next, have an assistant stand in front of the radiator so he can look at the water and report what he sees.

Next, you get in the car and start the engine. After it warms up good enough to run, push in the clutch, shift into reverse and continue to hold the clutch down. Put your other foot ON THE BRAKE and leave it there! Next, move the throttle lever with your hand and race up the engine a little AND at the same time, let out on the clutch a little like you're trying to back up BUT hold the car back with your foot on the brake. This will put a load on the engine.

Now .... while all this is happening, have your friend observe the water in the radiator for bubbles and/or foaming bubbles. If they are seen, race up the engine a little more (but still hold the car back firmly with the brake) and see if the bubbles increase.


Larry B.
 
Any engine that has not been rebuilt, my first guess would be radiator and block scale and rust. Ask a radiator shop to at least boil it out, and rod out the tubes if they will. Use plain water and try some Watter Wetter or one of the other similiar products.
 
I had a similar problem. I bought an original radiator to replace the two row repro radiator played with the timing and could not get it to stop overheating, before I was going to tear it down to figure out the problem I installed a new leakless water pump. Never overheated since, problem solved.
 
Summation of above plus one or two:
    1. Lack of water
    2. Lack of oil
    3. Gas mixture too rich
    4. Fan belt loose or slipping
    5. Incorrect spark timing
    6. Brakes not adjusted properly
    7. Water circulation retarded by sediment/grease in radiator.
    8. Excessive carbon deposit on piston heads and combustion chamber
    9. Blown Head Gasket
 
A head gasket leak is easy to detect by a compression test. Bubbles appearing in the upper radiator tank are not a positive indication of a head gasket leak because the water pump will cavitate and suck air into the cooling system.
 
Bob Bidonde said:
A head gasket leak is easy to detect by a compression test. Bubbles appearing in the upper radiator tank are not a positive indication of a head gasket leak because the water pump will cavitate and suck air into the cooling system.
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That's why you are supposed to remove the fan belt first.
 
Mine was simple so the mechanic said. The spark lever was too far up on the column. Instead of 2/3 up he suggested 2/3 down. Sounds simple but it cured the problem.
Wayne
 
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